Exactly where are you getting this high quality clutch . They where a problem 35 years ago I’m sure they’re much better now
The thing about a spring clutch is you can rebuild it ,change the springs .little machine work ,new disc or lining your good to go can’t rebuild a diaphragm clutch or so I’m told never tried
Can’t say which is a better design just know I trust my rebuilt spring clutch being it’s 24 hours labour to install one oh and
Yes you can change a clutch without removing the engine
Here’s a picture of the TOB difference between clutches
I’m wondering if some clutch adjustment problems folks are having are related
How many of you know that the clutch you found installed in your car is the original? My S2 had a coil spring pressure plate installed but I’m under no illusion that this means that it came that way from the factory. The 10" diaphragm clutch system that was fitted to the late 3.8s and early 4.2s has been unavailable for a long time, so when a part of them needs to be replaced owners have 2 options - the 10" coil spring that was used in the early (most) 3.8s, and the 9-1/2" diaphragm that was used in the later 4.2s. I can imagine lots of folks selecting the older 10" coil spring clutch when replacement time came, based on parts availability, bolt hole patterns in their flywheel, and other factors. Remember that when the time comes to replace any parts (eg driven plate or trhowout bearing), you are pretty much forced to replace the pressure plate too, as you can’t mix and match the components as I noted earlier.
Whenver I hear another story about Jaguar using up old parts rather than following the change identified in a Service or Spare Parts Bulletin I look for another explanation. I certainly find it extremely unlikely that a car built in October 1964 would have been fitted at the factory with a 10" coil spring clutch 9 months after the changeover date - just not credible to me…
Not in any particular order
Raise car (lift)
You undo the 2 large engine mount bolts
Raise and support engine
Disconnect the drive shaft
Remove tunnel cover hopefully no AC
Disconnect speedo
Remove Tranny mount
Support transmission
Here’s the kicker remove the TB reaction plate
Never said it was easy
If your good at it right equipment out in 4 hrs
You don’t have to disconnect the engine connection hoses wiring ,controls etc a lot of shops do it
But they still charge you 24 hrs labour
I never understood the use up the old parts theory. They have no reason to use up the old parts, they need to have a supply on hand for spare parts for quite some time after the change.
Tom
Agree with you on that. I tend to place it in the same category as “my replacement parts do not fit because the cars were hand built” , “I am having electrical problems because the components were made by the prince of darkness” and “the darn things are poorly built and unreliable”. Oh, and that Enzo thing too😄
My 67’ fhc had the 10" spring clutch, the fly wheel is drilled for both the 10" and the 9 1/2". i am going to use the 9 1/2" diaphragm clutch, should reduce the pedal effort. The throw out bearings are different.
I certainly don’t have any proof that it was and I don’t think anyone here has proof that it wasn’t: that said, why else would they have flywheels that were drilled for both clutches?
Given the frugal ways of Sir William, and the general sort of “cottage industry” that was the British motor manufacturing concern, it’s not a far stretch of imagination to see them doing that.
Because to do otherwise would REQUIRE knowing the exact cat number where the clutch would be changed, and allow each car to be fitted with only one type of clutch. Drilling for both costs next to nothing, and adds flexibility both in the initial build, and in subsquent clutch repairs and replacements. A better question would be “Why would they NOT have the flywheels drilled for both clutches?”.
My first attempted restoration was at age 15 an Austin Healy 3000 and I remember taking the coils spring pressure plate to a rebuild shop.
Can someone tell me why a diaphragm clutch is better than a coil spring clutch?
I know the release pressure is less but is there any other reason? I have wondered if the grip pressure, when clutch is fully engaged is the same for both.
My 1966 4.2 had a factory installed 10 inch clutch. I’m using a 9.5 upon reassembly. My flywheel is drilled for both, just need to swap the dowel pins.
Hi, My Early 65 4.2 (10668) came with a spring clutch 10 inches. My 66 FHC(31395) has a 9.5 diaphragm clutch. Another advantage of the diaphragm clutch is much less force to engage.
Regards,
Allen
Are you the original owner of these cars? If not, a clutch change may have occurred prior to your ownership of course, just as it presumably had prior to my acquiring my S2 with a coil spring clutch.
From the Jaguar Bulletins:
Transition from 10" B&B coil spring clutch to 10" Laycock Diaphragm clutch:
Engine Number RA.5801 - ref SB.E5 & SPB.C11
Estimated Date based on xkedata: Late Feb 1964
Estimated Car Number Transition: LHD OTS 88116x, LHD FHC 89018x
Transition from 10" Laycock Diaphragm clutch to 9.5" B&B Diaphragm clutch:
Engine Number 7E13510 (OTS&FHC), 7E53582 (2+2) - ref SPB.C24
Estimated Date based on xkedata: Late May 1967
Estimated Car Number Transition: LHD OTS 1E156xx, LHD FHC 1E342xx, LHD 2+2 1E775xx
Note that both changes are referenced in the Jaguar documents by Engine Number rather than Car Number, which makes sense in context. I’ve added an estimate of the corresponding Car Numbers above, based on xkedata records. Based on thisdmd, both of @alodmd 's cars would have been built with the 10" Laycock diaphragm clutch, and subsequently replaced.
David, My early 65 OTS had an original 11,210 miles. I have no doubts about the mileage as it has many original indications. The transmission shifts like a new car, very crisp, single finger shifting, The engine was frozen and in removing the pistons they still had most of the original Tin plating. All of the switches were very crisp. Still had the original coil, and the glass washer bottle still had the " add meth spirits" decal, the seatbelts had the lead embossed wire retained labelled Jaguar. 95% of the head still had the original paint. In dismantling the engine I was the first person to separate the transmission and the engine. All clamps were Cheney brand and the brake bottles still had the brown/yellow striped hoses and the very rare 1/2 fractional clamps on the bottom of the hose with 9/16 clamps on the top.
Regards,
Allen
Paul, neither was I, but found this out when the piston was first removed. Probably used as sacrificial metal on start up, kind of like using Zinc additives today. These split skirt pistons only had .001 clearance
