120 Roadster 672356 Rebuild

I was trying to make out caps. then we could start to think about a zapper alarm system (my kinda guy). I can’t imagine why you’d stuff that much resistance in a car. And, why hide it like that?

Would make a nice footwell heater :rofl:

Can’t wait to start taking other panels off :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

With the right power flow to it it would be a 125W heater, so you might be on the right track

Just be sure to replace the strips of electrical tape when you reinstall it so it doesn’t short against the body.

Spent the day stripping down the front suspension. It came apart without much of a fight. The biggest pain was clearing off all the thick glooped-on old grease. However, it is the main reason none of the assemblies were corroded :+1:

I do have one question though…the torsion bar adjuster nuts are really tight to turn, even with zero load - is that normal??

Cheers.

I’m glad to see 2 ovals in the inner fender. I thought it was someone on the line getting careless.

I had so much crud (New Mexico dust) caked on you couldn’t make out the shape or location of the fasteners. I went at it with a pneumatic chisel, first pass.

I find Brush Cleaner (blue can) works great and it’s somewhat cheap, and won’t blow up the shop.

Normally the torsion bar adjuster nuts should turn fairly easily if they are clean.
But they are in a position where they can get damaged by road hazards such as tree limbs, rocks, garage lifts, what have you. I found one of mine was just slightly bent, which meant it could not unscrew.

BTW two oval holes means someone WAS careless, in the punch press stamping room.

Come along Robert, you should know by now that the two holes are for roadster body mounting and fixed/ drip head body mounting !
Peter B.

Ah, yes I forgot about that, its just that I’ve seen so many other instances of wrong holes.
PICT0011
PICT0014

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Now that robots do all of the fabrication, we never ever see any poorly placed holes, welds, sealants or missing bolts.

Damned humans screw up everything.

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if the suspension is in ‘full droop’ they are stiff to turn and you shouldn’t.

Hi Phil,

The front wishbones have been already been removed, so the torsion are not connected. I think, as Rob has mentioned, they could be slightly bent or I just haven’t removed enough of the gunk around the threads. I’m going to try and run them back up the threads and then thoroughly clean and lubricate them. :crossed_fingers:

Cheers.

Yay! Big step forward today…got the new spare tyre tray fitted :grin:

Just need to clean up the welds and then weld in the small side panels I’ve made up :+1:

Cheers.

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Welded in the two small side panels at the sides of the boot. Finishes stripping and cleaning off all the old paint and rust protection. Combination of bitumen and rubber - VERY messy. Anyway, got it all done and now started rust-proofing with some red oxide first and then rust encapsulator before final satin black.

Great progress - very happy :grin:

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What is it with old cars and nests? This is only the second that I’ve started a full rebuild on and the second with with a built-in critter nest :rofl:

Easy shelter: you should see what I find, living in the bush!

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My 120 just came from New Mexico. I found 2 sets of snake bones.

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Ha! Should have expected it really…found another nest in the same place in the other side:

Obviously the perfect spot and in big demand :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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you might wanna re-word that Paul.

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Been busy stripping all the grease, crud and underseal from the chassis, engine bay and interior. Also straightened and repaired the very badly bent and corroded transmission tunnels. Planning on painting all this during the Easter weekend.

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