Is there any difference? Is there any sense in installing a 140 pump in a 120? Impeller? More flow?
It was mentioned in passing, thought I’d check with the squad.
Physically very different. Biggest difference is that the 120 pump uses the wide belt, while the 140/150 pump uses a more modern, narrow belt, so the pulleys are very different. The seals and shafts are not interchangeable.
There is one later XK120 pump that is internally the same as the 140/150 pumps. XK120 pumps with the WX128 casting number use the same shaft, seal and impeller as the later pumps.
Ah, then I’ve got the later one, but still with the wide belt.
All match up. Thanks.
A few years ago there was a thread undertaking a fairly deep dive into the nature of the impeller on the MGTD WP. Water flow, capacity, speed, power drain, number of vanes, etc.
I think the instigator eventually left his pump as-is and cleaned his radiator instead.
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Mike: I finally got the same small alternator that you told me about six months ago. My 120fhc is S681324. Now I am searching for small-belt pulleys. Please tell me where you obtained the one in the photo. Did you machine it ?
Thanks
martin
I used the later XK120 water pump, casting number WX128, that has the same replaceable bearing cartridge and shaft as the XK140/150/ Mk9. I then pressed on a XK140/150/Mk9 etc fan hub and used the matching narrow-belt water pump pulley. At the crankshaft end, I used an ATI damper with a Moroso single groove pulley. The Moroso crank pulley is the same diameter as the XK140 water pump pulley and the belt alignment is perfect. You don’t need the ATI damper and Moroso pulley, the standard Jaguar damper with the XK140/150 crank pulley will work fine.
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Awesome work Mike ! Thx.
Are those H8 carbs and a magneto on your engine ?
Best wishes
martin
Yes. The H8’s are Burlen reproductions I bought about 20 years ago. The magneto is a 1950’s vintage Scintillia Vertex, originally sold by Joe Hunt Magnetos in Los Angeles. About 5 years ago I sent it back to Joe Hunt, which is still in business, for a clean-up and check-up.
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Thx Mike. Another item: i notice a spin-on oil filter on your engine. Any recommendation on source of the correct mount. I made a couple of these in the past and still have one with AN fittings to an external location that i would like to install.
That is the mount for an early XJ6, which has no oil cooler provision. The filter itself is a WIX 51283, which catalogs to a Porsche 911 Turbo. The sump is 3.8L E-Type. I put AN fittings in the bypass port on the filter housing and the sump drain, and use that for bypass. I drain the oil by unscrewing the hose from the AN fitting on the sump. Saves the sump threads.
Is this vehicle a running, going concern?
You could fab up a valve, accessible from above (like P3 Rolls-Royces), for the ex-oil bypass area.
That way, you shove a pan underneath, reach down by the carbs–using an extension–open the valve, and drop the oil.
Not just yet… 
Close though. Needs the exhaust system sorted out (I have a plan and the parts) and a driveshaft fabricated. I was too busy to work on it when I was working. I made great progress on it right after I retired and was working on it every day. Then, I bought a 130 year old church, so I could build a garage to have more room to work on it. Three years ago 
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It’s critically important not to peak too soon.
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I figure restoring a falling-down 130 year old church building and ripping off the baptistry to build a garage for more room to work on a 68 year old Jaguar is the ultimate embrace of the “Grace, pace and space” motto. 
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And here I was thinking about “Grice, Spice and Pice” (Henry Manny III, I think … or was it Dennis Jenkinson?)
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you guys keep me semi-sane. jj
Excellent plan for the filter, drain, sump. Beautiful work Mike, thx.
best wishes
martin