Yes that’s it, I soldered mine too to get the RH blower going …but that was about 10 years ago …maybe it “went” again?
If there’s no power then I’m gonna remove the fuse box and check the solder joint.
That’s what I’d do too Joe.
That’s it alright. I figure a good strong couple of compressed air shots followed by a good vacuuming with a bendy vacuum tip might be good medicine.
Larry, after taking the pictures, I sprayed coil cleaner twice on the evap. Will check it again next time I remove the blower.
It looks pretty clean in the pics Joe so after you sprayed it must be better! The only thing I did with mine (apart from cleaning out the AC drains from time to time) was to give it a big drink of Lysol through the air intake under the wiper.
Car smelled like the ICU for about a week but no mold smell ever again.
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I guess it’s worth to do it once year. Have you used Lysol after that?
No, just the one time - seemed to do the trick.
Gents …
Just thinking this over. If I wanted to clean my evaporator in the future I believe I would get a little creative.
This is a side view of the evaporator and the red strip represents the area of the housing that is accessible if you pull out the radio. I would cut a square area maybe 4x3" out of the plastic housing. Then if you removed the heater core (which is fairly easy to do inside the car) you will have direct access to the evaporator. Spraying in a liberal amount of degreaser and cleaner should do the trick. I would do several applications giving the chemicals plenty of time to do their thing. Now with the heater core out you can also give that a good cleaning before reinstalling it.
The only thing left to do is cut a plastic patch and screw it in using sealant to make it air tight.
I’m sure no one will ever actually do this but you’re never going to get a fully functional system with a dirt/blocked evaporator (have you looked at the coils under your refrigerator lately?) and it really beats pulling a good evaporator out to clean it. Not a fun job.
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It is a pretty good idea, I’m up for the access holes/cutouts. Even if we need to remove the center console for better access, it’d take just a few minutes since it’s held in place by three screws (in my car at least).
I drilled an access hole in the trunk under the gas tank behind the differential for easy refill. It’s plugged in with a cone shaped rubber and caulked it around. Makes the whole job a lot easier and faster.
Sounds good Joe - my issue with the diff is I fitted the monobrace which completely blocks the fill hole … 
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Groovemen, you do not state if you use a shop vacuum to complete the cleaning after washing down with a cleaning solution. A caution: if the cleaner is some sort of solvent I would be careful sucking out the debris with an electric vacuum as you could create an explosive situation inside the vac. Maybe there are cleaners that have no flammability issues. Your access method is quite cleaver, however,
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Hi John …
Well I was trying to think outside the box because removing the evaporator is so-o-o involved.
In my case with the evaporator removed I carefully sealed both pipes before starting the cleaning.
First I sprayed it down with my hose. Next I actually had to use a brush to remove some of the heavy grime, then another spray down. Finally I soaked the evaporator in a large bucket filled with a witches brew of water, dove soap, and liquid degreaser overnight. I was shocked at how much dirt still came out. Then a final hose down and left to dry in the sun. Now is was sparkling clean.
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