I needed a reason to laugh and yesterday the SS provided one.
The chrome mouldings on the left side are overpainted with silver paint, and I never really paid much attention to them. Yesterday I noticed the one on the left rear door is made of wood.
I don’t know whether to disparage the DPO for his stinginess or praise his resourcefulness.
Anyway I need a 1714/G moulding for the near side rear door if anybody has one. It is 29-1/2" long x 1-3/16" at the front x 1-7/8" at the rear, slight curve, 1/4" thick and has a hole 1-1/2" from the front end for a handle.
Hi Rob,
Some of the chrome strips were missing from my car when I bought it 1993 and so I made them from 1/4" thick brass. This was a tedious procedure from me with only hand tools and I did wonder if I should just wait for some to turn up. Well in all that time since 1993 I’ve never seen any on offer.
See: http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk/New%20page%2016.htm
Peter
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Peter
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I have previously had sets NC milled from 6mm brass strip
The place that did may still have the program.
There is a reason I have had several sets made, they are mazak and the rest are probably bad.
Ok, I thought it can’t hurt to ask in case anyone had one lying under a lathe.
So brass it will be.
WEll , as Maxwell Smart would say "Missed by that much"I went down to the garage and dug out the old SS strips and there was a brass door strip in excellent condition , except it wasa front DHC door. If you’d needed a front strip it could have been shortened, but the front ones , and theis one aren’t tapered … 1 3/16"the whole way . Made as an extrusion.
The originals have a T slot in the back with captive studs These are all rusty now. Makingthe new strips, we bought 1/4"brass flat extrusion which was available in a variety of widths to suit the different strips [ We did whole cars worth.]
The chamfer is 45 degrees, easy to mill.
Th machinists bought in a T slot cutter of a suitable size ,. not exactly original but worked.
I then lasered out brass rectangles with radiussed corners and a hole in the centre.
drilled and counter sunk a hole in a piece of scrap steel and used a c / sunk screw , whacked to depress the hole and them soldered brass countersunk screws into each
These could then slide along the slot at the back in effect like the original
These had to be inserted before the ends of the slots were blocked off.
The other thing is that these strips should be hand polished yourself, The platers tend to attack them with a buff and round off the angles of the section [ Because that’s easy]
They should be W&D’d lengthways
It’s only a small extra cost to use brass nuts and captive plates and someone [ perhaps your self , will that you in years to come. The screws were BA , I’ve forgotten the BA number .
AS Peter says , it’sa hard slogby hand, Easy with an NC mill and extremely accurate. We’ve made 3 sets so far , I hate to think what my arm would feel like if I’d had to hand file all that. I’d guess about 36-40 feet of chamfer per car . : >(
The T slot that Ed refers to applies to the MkIV but the chrome strips on the SSs don’t use that system. They have bosses that pass through the holes in the doors and the bosses have thread holes in them for a small bolt to clamp the strip with a cup washer. If you are missing the cup washers you can always fit a stack of washers that fit around the boss.
Peter
The SS DHC strip in front of me has the T slot. But no matter it is an efficient system and saves silver soldering threaded pieces and tapping them
If one needs cup washers as was used on Mk IVs, one can buy 3/4” modern cup shaped core plugs and just drill a hole in them. It might even fool a concours judge… available in brass for inclement climes
Hi Rob,
If the chrome-retaining cup washers are the same as what is used on the MkV, then I’m sure I have some spares that you are more than welcome to have…
One could emulate the system used on Mark V body mouldings, where there was a round cutout near one end of the T-slot, made by an end milling cutter, in which the square headed studs are inserted and then slid into place along the slot.
Rob
No tha twon’t work
The MK 4/5/7 strips had a slot but with a ridge that the straight slot in the screw engaged with to make it "captive’ This can only be done by extrusion. In these the slot at the ends still needed to be filled with a small brass plug
The idea of radiusing the plates to to stop the locking as they were slid along the slot.
Digging through old bits ,the rule was that straight parallel strips had the T slot , curved or tapered one [ which can’t be extruded had lugs cast in. On the DHC e.g the long rear spear doesn’t have the lugs in a straight line ,but this wasn’t an issue as they marked the location and steered the T slot in a slight curve through each on of these
I did have some pics of the result but my computer has eaten most of them. Attached is the only one I can find of the A pillar trim and the trial piece of brass I was fiddling with to design the captive plates. Someone on JL here took one set , I think Ron Laurie.
Personally I think you will probably need to remake theA pillar and rear spears which were mazak and notorious for crumbling
Someone else had cast the rear DHC spear for m IVs, but frankly It’s more work to prepare them and worry about pororsity and doesn’t end up cheaper
The extruded brass gives a perfect base for chrome plating with very little prep work.
