I’m investigating the body mountings. The two behind the rear axle are gone. The others have seen better days.
Does anyone have pictures of the body mounts in restored or good condition?
I think they are probably the same for all-steel cars through 1948. I don’t know about '36-'37 coachbuilts.
If It’s the same as my 40 I will get you some photos as the chassis is sitting there without the body.
Now I just have to remember to do it.
Regards, Graham
Yes. they are completely different on the 36/7 but the same as MK IV
The one at the rear of the wheel arch is complicated compound curves although you couldp robably cheat yur way out.
I always drill a 1/8" hole through the mountings into the chassis/ bracket as a guide to getting the position correct again. Moving the 4 mounting points each side alters the door gaps and fitting
The ear [ and very front have sliding captive nuts. It’s always best to door the sills and doors first, so that the chassis acts as a big jig to keep alignment.
One certainly wouldn’t want to do the sills off the chassis.
Thanks for those, Graham. I captured them and from the website they are 324 kb and 190 kb but I see the originals were 2.86 Mb and 1.69 Mb.
Can I ask you to send them to me direct at xk120us4@sbcglobal.net ?
Thanks,
Rob
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Many thanks once again Graham, and with those hi resolution shots I can now see that my problems are not going to be with the chassis mounts, which seem to be all in place. They are going to be with the body sills as Ed suggested.
I see the front has internal captured nuts, which will no doubt mean a challenge to remove the bolts without ruining the nuts.
This has led to the discovery that the body is sagging on its supports and is resting on top of the chassis. I’m surprised to find no rubber pads anywhere as are on all Mark V body mountings.
I also see a great amount of tar everywhere underneath, even inside the boot upper regions, apparently intended as a rust preventative. I suppose it helped in most places. Was this factory work, do you think, or a fastidious later owner’s work?
Rob
Don’t worry , the body does rest on thechassis with only thin water proof felt. And NO rubber mounts.
The front captive nuts are 3/8" BSF They should be OK isf the cage hasn’t broken .WE had one chassis where the factory had cut open the side of the chassis there to access the nuts. Fora fan of neatness. One might drill a 2"hole with a holesaw on the inside chassis rail to access them You may need to do the same to remove the trunnion housings which [ at least here] have worn the to inside bearing surface right through to the grease channel You will need to have the engine out to do this.
I’ll try tomorrow to poke a camera up in the nether regions of the MK IV DHC we have her e and see if a useful pic can be had.
I would suggest that it’s only sagging if the door gaps don’t line up. Not modern car accuracy, but reasonable gaps esp at the front of the door, and not overlapping pillar
I mention the pillars, because a number of years ago someone took the body off and repaired the sills with it off the chassis, And when it went back on the doors overlapped the pillars
I haven’t seen tar underneath.It may have been something done in US,Years ago I bought a Fiat Spyder in from US and that had been sprayed willy nilly underneath with a thick wax coating. Obviously as the car was stationary as only one side of the tail shaft was coated." Balance, what balance?"
Rob I could only get a reasonable pic of the rear mount while the wheels are on the car
Attached here…
Many thanks, Ed. It is becoming clear to me that I will have to do a lot of sill and center pillar lower end repair before lifting the body off. The right side doors close nicely but the left side not so well.
This investigation all started with my discovery that the spare tire door would not close with the tire in the tray.