1967 s1 Hazard Warning Wiring Diagram

Well, this is a foible on me! I had pulled up the note pad page and printed it directly, filing it with the diagrams I was taking to the work on the car.
Last week or so. I read that we can save lots of life on our printer cartridges by changing to Time New Roman Font and setting our printer default to draft. My pics were probably at 100dpi. So that is probably why my print was so blurry although my exophoria and double vision have been a real aggravation also (but getting better!)

v/r, Mike

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Fair enough! I totally understand and greatly appreciate your post.
Mike

Mike,
My 63 didn’t have the hazard flasher but I restored a '67 for Bill at On The Road Again Classics and that one had the hazard flasher and heated rear glass set up on it. I used the wiring diagram I found on the Internet for that car and it worked. I know you’re fighting this one but I don’t have any photos that would be helpful.

more help on directional notes

Now, if any electrically competent people , of which I am not, could help me on the 66 Hazard thread, I would be grateful

John, Paul, Bill and all the others who helped me, I have a strange dilemma I can’t understand. The diagrams and photos are proving to be a huge help.

I need to understand this: I to the car today with the intention of confirming I had a 12v feed to both the Brown wire going to the haz chassis and to the G with black band feeding term 6 of the hazard sw. I also wanted to verify GR and GW wires feeding the ts bulbs had continuity to the bonnet connector term 7 and 8 and so identify what the connections in the cockpit would be. I had thought I would apply 12v to the GR and GW wires to determine which ones fed the bulbs, but instead, I used a tool I have used before to “ring out” the circuit first. It is a 12 v dry cell battery with a door bell buzzer wired in using 20 ft of bell wire, with an alligator clip on each wire. When you touch the wires, the bell rings. I used an old bonnet connector half and I stripped wires 7 and 8, allowing me to connect to them with my alligator clip with the connector plugged into the chassis cable containing the GW and GR wires running to all 4 signal lights. I could ring the bell by touching clip lead to the correct wire in the cockpit. I left one lead attached to pin 7 and then 8 and took the other lead to the cockpit.I touched every single GW and HR wire in the cockpit but could never establish continuity. What am I doing wrong? Suggestions?Best Mike Moore

You’re sayin that you do not have continuity between the GW and GR wires under the dash and the respective wires at the bonnet? Are the wires at the left and right sides in the upper footwells connected? This is where the wires to the bonnet and the rear connect with the ones from the steering column.

John

I think you are trying to find continuity from the dash out to the engine bay side of the 8 pin connector? So are you putting one clip on the bay harness pin and the other on the corresponding tab of the fuse box?

Yes! That is what I am trying to do. John has just offered another idea-I have been looking for that connection to the bonnet next to the main flasher. I will connect all those wires near the steering column first, That is this mornings chore!
Thanks, Mike Moore
Mke

Several at each location. I am going over shortly and will check again, Thanks! Mike M

Michael, trying to follow, sans car. These two visible connectors “might” be the connectors that come from bonnet pins 7 & 8. I only say that because from the diagram there is a connector with one wire on one side going to the rear lamp, and two wires on the other side one going to the bonnet pins and the other to the turn signal switch. The diagram also shows another connector in the circuit, that could be a multi pin connector? The good news is it shows the same color code on both sides of the connector but I would seek this one out for a test.


I like your trouble shooting tool!!
pauls

Paul, I am studying your note and the picture. I will take both with me to the car in. a few minutes. Can you please orient me as to how I am looking at the wires? I note also that this car probably does not have the correct dimmer switch for this ts switch as I see no way of connecting to the dimmer switch yet,Mike

Hi Michael,
The photos are from the floor looking up towards the connectors. The flasher unit would be to the left. The two white chips or scratches in the upper left of the photo are on the bottom dash cover. Good luck.

pauls

   EUREKA!

I now have turn signals, headlights hi, headlights lo, brake lights and hazard warning flasher!
I have been going over to the car early since the owner is not home and I go for a specific test answer etc then back home in a couple of hours. The last few days have been both intense and hopeless at times because I believed I had tried everything. I disconnected everything in the hazard circuit last week and carefully reconnected each one I was sure of, but had no joy. When I checked things again yesterday I was not happy with the center wire connection controlled by the turn signal indicator.It was a strange color combination that I knew had changed over the years, my installed color was N. (GB) in any event was left over. I KNEW the outputs were GR for right and GW for left. I connected my trusty buzz box to the GR wire and swept the remaining wires.It indicated the strange wire with the black stripe competed the circuit with left or right.I moved the N wire to where it should go and connected the center lead to the GB(?) Then I noticed the red hazard light flasher was on (for the first time).I turned it off and bundled all the GW wires on the left with the ones under the steering column, and signaled for a left turn-and it worked with the key on. I then removed the left side GW wires until it stopped working and I replaced the last one.

I need to sort out the headlight flasher but I think I do not have the right high beam switch in this car for that. With everything working, I decided to retire for the day. My next step is to go back and rearrange the wiring, reinstall the conduit and flasher and reinstall the upholstery I removed. Thanks so much to Paul Spurlock, John Carey,Bill Billotti , John North , David Langley, Bob Hodgins, Terry Sturgeon and Ray Livingston.
You gents are the greatest! Mike Moore

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Michael,
YAY!!! Contrats, you deserve a break after all of that. Thanks for being so tenacious, using smart troubleshooting tools and methodical procedures. That will do it every time. Without two different flashers involved, extra power supplies etc. would think the headlight flasher would be much easier. You now have the tools to find out :slight_smile:
pauls

I was at the point where if I couldn’t resolve it soon I was going to remove the added hazard flashers.It looks so much more simple! Thanks for the terrific help Paul
Mike Moore