Hey guys, thanks for the add, I’m brand new to the Jag community but I’ve always wanted one.
I’ve found a beautiful classic Jag, but I have no experience in previous ownership. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated, the car is up for auction. You can see her here. Thanks again!
1 Like
Hi Richard
Oil pressure gauge may have been intentionally disconnected to hide a low oil pressure problem.
No air filter for many miles is not good for the engine
If it were me considering to buy the car, I would not buy it without having a significant budget (ie many tens of thousands) after the purchase to sort out problems. It could be you buy it and find out the engine needs a rebuild along with other needed work.
Dennis
69 OTS same colour as this one!
1 Like
Welcome to the loony bin!
If you take nothing else away from this group, take this piece of advice away: DO NOT purchase any E-Type until it is inspected by someone who knows them very well, otherwise you can end up with with what is known as a “fright pig.”
If it was driven for a lot of miles without effective air filtration, there’s a high likelihood that there’s some extreme wear on the cylinder bores.
1 Like
Welcome Richard, you should buy what you want but spend extra time, money, and effort to make sure it’s what you want.
The example above looks great from 20 ft but up close and underneath it’s completely unloved. It’s priced like a nice driver but the buyer will get it home to find out why nobody is driving it. Plan on fixing everything. The engine and the rust just to start
2 Likes
I am partial to '68’s especially since they have the better cooling system. This one looks promising I think but not one I would buy without driving and going over it myself or by an expert you trust. I think they need to do better explaining about the oil pressure and engine condition. In the PPI photos I can tell it has the “self adjusting” clutch slave cylinder. In my case I had the same type which I think led to some premature throw out bearing wear. I am still OK but may have an engine-out situation soon since the carbon layer on my TOB is getting thin. There is an inspection hole on the bottom of the bell housing where you can shine a good light and and see things. This is not mine but has good description of what you will see. My carbon layer thickness is similar or a little thinner. I can also see that all of the under-dash panels are missing as well as some of the door trim on the interior panels. Just some thoughts from a '68 guy.
David
68 E-type FHC
1 Like
Hi Tom,
Welcom to the Forum. Lots of experience, advice (wanted and unwanted), and opinions prevail… LOL
If you’re serious about the car my first question is: Are you mechanically adept? From what is shown in the video there are lots of items that demand attention. I’m sure more may be lurking under that nice shiny paint! If not mechanically adept you may find the car a money pit! While they are exciting to drive and own, they demand attention! They have quirks, especially with Mr. Lucas lurking in the electronics!!!
If you’re serious about the car spend a few $$$, hire someone who knows these cars (particularly that Series) and can give an honest evaluation/appraisal.
Good luck and I hope you find the right car.
You may want to inquire to the seller:
- How long was the car stored?
- Do the missing door card lower trim pieces come with the car?
- Why is the radio antenna hole plugged? Radio work?
- Why does the Tachometer not work?
- Have a full engine analysis done by a competent firm (not the seller). Leak down test, Compression test, etc.
- Finally ask to see any and all documentation from past ownership (service records, parts purchases, registration(s), etc.)
Wishing you Happy Trails,
Dick
I think the best way to sum up the E-Type is this: in the '60s, they were built in relatively large numbers and priced like Chevies, but the long-term maintenance approached the cost of a Ferrari, which is why so many hit the junkyard or were stored to eventually become barn finds.
But if you’re a weekend tinkerer, Jaguar had you in mind, and as long as you have the money, means and patience, you can do much of the work in your garage with the occasional help of like-minded addicts.
2 Likes
At the current high bid it might be a good buy provided you can do a lot of the work yourself, but an inspection is really a must as rust in the bodywork is a killer. I do like the way that this auction site (which I haven’t come across before) gets each car inspected prior to the auction start - in this case by Steve’s Jaguar in Canoga Park, who I’ve heard good things about, but have no personal experience of. This gives them a differentiating factor from bringatrailer who are the big fish in the on-line auction pond.
1 Like
I’d call this car a future handful. Pretty much everything is there and mostly working, but in need of attention. It’s probably a good candidate for a full restoration, or you can drive it between problems. Best to go through the photos and Steve’s report and ask yourself if you have the skills, patience and/or money to deal with the problems. To take just one thing, you can’t even drive it without repairing the brakes. Replacing/rebuilding the booster, master, and calipers is a big deal, which will require removing the rear axle and extracting a bunch of stuff from the engine compartment. And maybe you’ll have to bend up new brake lines. With the axle out, you’ll at least want to reseal the differential and replace the control arm bearings. That’s several thousands of dollars if you need to have a shop do it, or a full winter’s project if it’s your first time doing it yourself. It’s also how a quick purchase turns into five years in the garage. Not like swapping brakes on your Subaru. This is a car filled with “while your at its.”
5 Likes
Indeed… enough to end up stripped to the bone.
1 Like
I bought a '68 about a year ago that was in decent condition. I’d say to budget $10,000 or more if you do your own work and probably twice that if you don’t. I find the car difficult to work on not because of technology but because how things are laid out and too often hard to get at.
Rich
I think the OP has fled! 
2 Likes
“twice that if you don’t” is probably a very low estimate. Remember the $38K clutch job? If you took this to a shop I think the price would start at $25K and escalate from there once under way as more issues are found that have to be addressed…
1 Like