1969 E-type FHC transmission pull

I have this car since the mid 70’s & my best friend, a car racer before me. My daily driver for years then, up to 100k mi. Put away in 1991, the start of the total tear down & rebuild. Everything.
Test drives all good except the growl in the overdrive gear!
I heard this several years ago the first time the car fired up in 2015
after installing the engine, tranny, etc. I bought the new tranny in 2009.
I contacted Paul Cangialosi from JT-5. He assured me they bench test, etc & suggested a harmonic between the tranny & differential.
But if I pulled it out & sent it back, he’d pull it apart & replace o.d. set
if necessary. I did not pull it out then b/c I just put it in & he sounded sure.
So, we just finished the IRS rebuild/upgrade & installed it, at my friend the mechanic’s. Test drives great! But you got a “growl” in the O.D.
gears. All others quiet. “We probably have to pull it out. You can’t let it break. We can drain, look for metal, etc, but not optimistic.

Question:
Has anyone successfully pulled out a tranny without pulling the engine
with it? Or am I in Jaguar heaven by having to disassemble the whole
damn thing again before enjoying it?
Any other recommendations, experiences W/this in a JT-5?
Tranny is clear from the metal around it. We had to hit tight spots
up front, so I’m sure.
Michael Caro

Michael Caro

Thanks, Jerry.
Having pulled this twice in our lives already I was pretty sure these 2 together is the only route. BUT, I too remember someone making the claim & figured forum is the sole place to get the truth.

the rest of us who have yet to fire up the car are “whistling past” the garage, lest this type of catastrophe be contagious

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I attempted to delete my post. Not allowed to do so. I “flagged” it
& requested it to be deleted by “administrators”? I apologize to those
“whistling by…lest this be contagious.” Cooties are tough! I totally understand. New to Forum this year. Not my 1st Faux Pas.
Michael

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No apologies necessary.

Painter guy thought maybe the rails could stand another coat of paint since we are painting the outside…he asked…“…Is it a big deal to pull the engine on one of these…?”

The maniacal panicked laughter answered his question.

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Not sure what the concern is about on pulling the engine. It is just a simple operation broken down into a series of steps.
Step 1. Build new garage with 12 foot ceiling clearance.
Step 2. Purchase new or used 2 or 4 post lift.
Step 3. Purchase multiple tools for lifting, rolling and freeing stuck fasteners.
Step 4. Pull engine.
Easy peasy!

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you forgot step 3.5: go back and remove several items you can’t believe you have to remove to be able to pull the engine.

And step five. Dismantle entire car. Might as well restore it while you are at it!

Step 6: buy a frequent flier pass to the ER.

:wink:

Nearly there:
*Step 1. Build new garage with 12 foot ceiling clearance. * New garage = 14’ ceiling
Step 2. Purchase new or used 2 or 4 post lift. 2-poster to be installed when #1 is complete
Step 3. Purchase multiple tools for lifting, rolling and freeing stuck fasteners. Done
Step 4. Pull engine. The"pull" will start this winter

Craig

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The do you continue on to #5?

Geoff

Actually step 4 is merely a precursor to step 5 – the stripped body shell goes to paint/body shop as soon as I dismantle everything

Craig

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I said that about 15 years ago

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I don’t think pulling an E-Type engine is quite as big a deal as some folks here are suggesting, especially one that’s been out before so it ought to be relatively clean and without the usual seized fasteners and whatnot.

A buddy and I did our first E-Type engine over 50 years ago to renew the clutch. Neither of us had ever worked on an E before but we were both handy. No shop manual, just a regular garage and with only a floor jack and a chain block. We pulled it out the top complete with SUs etc still attached,

I understand that it’s going to take a bit longer on a nice restored car, but we had that E-Type running and back on the road the next day. So two days work for a couple of shade tree mechanics.

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You make me 50 years younger and I’ll do it in two days too

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“Young & dumb & broke” is a great statement. We were there
40 years ago. As my mechanic friend now said: “we’ll just…
No big deal. But frustrating after a total rebuild to have to do this
tear down again after all new parts front to back. 5th gear is the problem. Not something one can check before installing. We won’t “pull” the engine this time. We’ll “drop” it, out the bottom. Got a 4 post lift & a 14’ garage.
My friend is a drag racer & his take is: “If you can’t handle burning, braking, or crashing it, don’t race. I’m not racing, but I am learning
tolerance about building cars from him.
Thanks all for a magnificent site/forum.
Michael

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That’s how/why I learned to change seals in rotary engines.

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Michael I’ve two of Paul’s transmissions in two cars. The first thing you need to do is to determine that the noise you hear is not simply the shifter and it underlying mechanicals touching the inside of the trans cover, in any gear. As I recall there’s a plate under the rubber gaiter on the stick that moves with the stick and can come into contact with the cover in an individual gear. If it does come into contact it can sound like the noise you describe. I’ve had these noises in specific gears and that’s what it’s been.

Thank you, Terry.
We’re checking everything before we drop it out.

But it only happens in 5th. I understand what you are describing.

Plus I’ll drive it for a while & drain the fluid into a paint screen.

Would be nice.

This is a ‘69 FHC .

Michael

Michael My problem was 5th gear as well.