1969 E-type FHC transmission pull

Terry,
What do you think about: there is no noise in gears 1,2,3, or 4.
Only gear 5 has the growl?
Thanks,
Michael

Michael If you have access to the shifter boot area, hold you hand over the back of the boot at the bottom where it joins the transmission, and shift gears. You will feel something moving under the boot that’s not the shifter lever. In my car that movement was enough to touch the transmission cover in fifth gear as I recall. That resulted in the transmission of noise in the car in that gear only.

Thanks again, Terry.
I pulled the tunnel cover. R.F. 90degree corner of the tranny case below the top plate was touching the metalwork of the body in the tunnel.
Cut down on a diagonal W/a saws all 45 deg & cut some metalwork, too. Re: rubber shift cover area: 2 of the metal corners in the rear
were in contact W/ the tunnel cover, both sides despite that I attempted
to beat enough clearance when 1st installed. More hammer adjustment
& grinder solved this.
Your advice appreciated as is P. Cangiolosi’s confidence in his tranny.
Will continue & we’ll see. Reassemble & test drive after
installing new torsion bars. Also floor & tunnel shield mentioned elsewhere in the Forum - where I can get to, anyway.
Mike

This is good advice. I have two cars with T5’s that have some mileage on them, and both make this rattle from inside the shifter housing that sounds JUST like engine pinging. They only do it in 3rd gear, which was my first clue that it wasn’t actually an engine issue.

By gently putting upward or downward pressure on the shifter, I can make the noise go away completely. Might be worth giving that sort of thing a try for troubleshooting purposes.

Thank you Terry & Ben. It is now July & 5 months past my bilateral total knee replacements & the cut aways I mentioned many months ago to the trans case & tunnel.
I also reshaped the tunnel @ the boot W a small sledge & rounded the square plate around the shifter boot as it hit the tunnel, too. This required widening of the console metal to fit around the wider tunnel cover.
I made the first drive today after interior reassembly w/lots of new interior stuff. Magnifique. No noise from the tranny in 5th gear. And as
Paul Cangiolosi stated: “It transforms the car”.
So do the Webers (still tweaking) and moderate Isky cams &.030 over
bore. The torque, shifting speeds, & tromp power when wanted is so
we’ll balance to vehicle weight, & just when the motor is reving @ 3K r.p.m. at 70m.p.h., one more shift available. Down to 22K rpm.
You saved me from pulling a tranny, sending it to Paul C. & having him pull it apart & send it back W/no changes as the tranny was correct.
And thanks to all of you who contribute wisdom to this site.
Michael Caro

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O.K.,O.K. Don’t jump on me as I wrote 22K r.p.m. Instead of 22hundred. Bad ass Jag at 22k r.p.m., eh? No one has one of those!

…not for very long.

:grimacing:

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Hello Terry,
You helped me W/a transmission noise in this thread.
I have a 1969 Series 2 FHC W/Paul Cangiolosi’s Medatronics 5 speed.
Have you dropped the oil pan from your car W/this transmission?
I wanted to take out the flywheel cover plate & there is not enough room to get it out, probably b/c of the different bell housing?
Now I want to drop the oil pan. Can you shed any light on how to go about it? Will I have to pull the front damper, and/or lift the engine off the motor mounts a few inches, etc. to get it out?
Or will it simply drop out by unbolting? Nothing simple about these cars, right?
Thanks,
Michael Caro

Hi Michael My Email has been out since last Sunday so I didn’t see this. I removed the pan on my fhc last summer - it has Paul’s 5 speed, and I don’t recall any difficulty with the vertical dirt shield on the face of the bell housing. The bell housing at that location is AFIK exactly the same as the factory edition. Is it too close to the tie plate on your car - what exactly is the problem?
There are a few threads on this site about removing the pan. I took the damper off thou I’m not clear it’s absolutely necessary to do so. It’s a quick job provided you can get the big bolt off. The crankshaft should be positioned so pistons 1 and 6 are at tdc, and remove the dip stick. It’s helpful to raise the back of the engine as much as you can as the main issue is the pan clearing the tie plate. Because the 5 spd is so high that may involve removing the transmission cover on the center hump in the car.
When re installing the pan, make of a couple of guide pins from old 5/16" NF bolts with the heads cut off a put them on each side of the block. This forces the pan on cleanly and keeps the gaskets in place. I’ll try and post a photo of that.

Thank-you, Terry. All good info.
I was getting a couple of small oil leaks that were easily stopped. But the most alarming was oil finding it’s way to what seemed to be coming out between the back of the flywheel cover plate & the bottom face of the bell housing. Fearing a rear main seal leak I attempted to peak inside by taking the plate off. There was not enough room for it to drop out & I thought(incorrectly?) that it should.
However, hallelujah, Friday, I removed the exhaust manifolds for re-coating and there it was, way down & to the right- a leaky banjo bolt attached to the block, that feeds the 2 cam shafts. Oil dripped over the edge of the block, down through the motor mount, & blew back but not enough oil to get more clues.
When I dropped the flywheel cover & moved it away I couldn’t see any oil on the front of the flywheel. But when I stuck my finger in the hole on the bottom of the bell housing & rubbed it along the inside bottom of the b.h. it came out W/oil on it but very little. So I was getting mixed messages.
Dodged a cannon ball. Next plan was to drop the crank & put the seal
in from the bottom. Think that would have worked?
Thanks again for your help.

Michael Caro

If you mean that you are thinking of removing the crank with the engine in the car, it can’t be done.

Sure you can. Just remove the gearbox first.:roll_eyes:

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And how do you do that with the engine in the car…oh no not that again :joy::joy::joy:

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Well,. . . . :grin:. . . start by putting a sliding member in the drive shaft. :rofl:

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I called my friend who said: “you never should have said ‘drop the crank’. You can’t.
Loosen the mains. Take last cap off. Apply some downward pressure on the end of the crank. Press down on the clutch. All this will take the pressure off the seal. Turn the crank. Seal will move. Keep turning & pulling til all comes out. Lube new one, insert end, turn crank again till up there. Put the seal in the bottom cap. Re-torque.”
“Bob, you did this to your race car?” -won the N.M.C.A. Nationals in Indianapolis
3 yrs ago Nostalgia S.S.- 427 FE Ford. “Yes, I did. Iwas doing them when I was 14 @ Hungry’s garage” All those old Fords leaked”.
“Bob, these guys are serious builders, racers.”
“Just write it up as best you can. Maybe it will help someone someday.”

Hi Michael…you cannot replace the rear main seal in an E type without removeing the crankshaft…Steve

Hello Michael,
You should have added to the above:
“and you didn’t worry about the resulting oil leak?”
Bob: “Nah. Its a race car, who cares if it leaves a bit of oil on the garage floor”

The Rope Seal is difficult to get seated with the engine out of the car and the crank shaft removed, let alone trying to feed it in from one side. I’m calling BS on the above for an XK engine.

Regards,

Bill

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There was not a resultant oil leak. Check out the car/race on line. The reference to rope gaskets was back when he was 14, 1962. May be B.S. on an XK, but I would try it before the alternatives, i.e. pull motor & tranny, separate, et. al. Wouldn’t you?

I wouldn’t bother to try it - but feel free to have a go. There is so much packing and setting (using a mandrel, not the crank) with the block upside down in front of you and the crank out. I don’t see a way to duplicate that result with the crank in place.

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