I thought we’d determined earlier in this thread that your engine number does not correspond to the filter system illustrated on pg E29 of the XKs catalog. Your engine, being later than 7R-2297, should use the set up on the following page. It’s confusing that the later illustration appears to show a shorter/stubbier filter can, but I believe that is just “artistic license”. I think that your engine should use the gasket shown in your photo inside the zip-lock bag. As Geo illustrated, there are a whole load of different gaskets for the various versions of the engine from 1948-mid 80’s. I think I got six different ones in an engine bottom end gasket set.
Ah, David, somehow I missed that! And when I saw the “short” can on pg. E30, I naturally assumed that did not apply to MY engine with the long can. Indeed, XKS pn JA-EAC1542 looks exactly like mine. I blame it on the overwhelming feeling I get when I take my “engineering” brain to the garage and find myself staring at the daunting tasks at hand.
I have scoured my books trying to determine the flow of the hoses under the bonnet and have found nothing related to the large bean-shaped container with the two 1/4" hoses coming off the top thru and valve. (photo)!
Side note, I’m still trying to figure the history on the colors under my bonnet. It looks like the original color was RED, then a SILVER (that does not match the gray exterior), then of course the spray can of BLACK “flex-seal!”. The most original and durable looking of the colors appears to be the RED. Would Jaguar have had SILVER-GREY exterior with a RED engine bay?
No problem! Though the XKs catalog is one of the best, there are still some illustrations that cause confusion. Mostly, I think it is where they attempt to cover more than one variant with a single illustration to save space. I agree that this particular illustration with the short stumpy oil filter canister for Series 2s is one of the ones that causes most confusion. Every time I have to find a component on the oil filter for my '69 Series 2 I have to do a double take, as the canister looks wrong. I’m glad to hear that it shows the right oil filter housing gasket.
The “large bean shaped object” is the vacuum reservoir for the brakes. The valve is a non-return valve. The components are illustrated on page L.22 (for the 3.8 Series 1), but are essentially similar for the later cars too. I don’t see a hose routing in the manual. This is the best photo I have:
One hose goes to the firewall where a behind-the-firewall pipe takes it to the left had side to connect to the brake servo. The other hose goes to the rear of the intake manifold to draw manifold vacuum.
The red on your engine frames may be the original primer. Originally, the engine frames would have been painted body colour.
So, based on the image on pg. 30 of XKS cat., I am MISSING items #2 (spring), item #3 (pressure plate), item #9 (felt washer), and also, what appears to be a washer (between #2 & #9), retaining clip (between #3 & #8). There is no groove on my bolt to accept a retaining clip. Should every series 2 have those?
The filter I ordered from XKS came with two rubber seals, one fatter than the other. The skinny one fits in the groove of my oil casting, but I don’t want to assume ANYTHING any more. It took me over an hour to get the OLD rubber seal out of the groove and clean up the residue (had to be 50yrs old). BTW David, beautiful engine compartment.
All the components you list are meant to be there. I see a spring in your photo, but it doesn’t appear to be the right one. With the components you have, I imagine that quite a lot of the oil was bypassing the filter material. If you go to my web site at tinyurl.com/zgjkej3 you should find a series of photo albums including one on the Series 2 Oil Filter. It shows the components and the order they go together. You will see that my car also doesn’t have the clip. As far as I know, it is a friction fit on the bolt, as it has no groove. It just serves to stop all the outer components sliding off the bolt when changing the oil, so it isn’t the end of the world if it’s missing. As for the two O-rings, you’ll find a lot of discussions in the archives about them. In my experience, neither of the two that come with the XKs oil filter are quite right. One is too skinny, and the other too fat. The “goldilocks” O-ring can be found with the WIX 51183 (Napa Gold 1183) filter which is the one I now use.
David, I have an early S2 FHC 1R25536 Dec 68 and engine #7R3247-9 and I have the earlier oil filter assembly and gasket for Series1 and early Series 2, not the one that you show but my engine is after 7R2297. So I wonder if that cut off point is correct.
Very interesting. Your car is an earlier build than mine. Mine is 1R9191 built April 1969, but has an earlier engine number 7R2779-9 than yours, but still later than the published cut-over date to the later oil filter housing. Past research suggests that my engine was held back for rework, as it is well out of sequence with engines in cars produced around the same time. I combined your photo with a photo of my block at the oil filter housing area. Yours on the left, mine on the right:
It would appear that everything is identical except for the pattern left by the gasket. My conclusion is that the earlier and later types of oil filter housing are compatible with engine blocks of this era; i.e. nothing changed in the engine block that would dictate which oil filter housing was required. As such, it is possible that the earlier housing could have been fitted to an engine later than 7R2297 without any issues. Could this have happened to your car? I think recall that your engine is also fitted with a Series 1 Alternator and bracket, as well as a non-Series 2 arrangement of belts and pulleys. A mystery indeed! The cut-over to the new oil filter housing at 7R2297/8 is reflected in the Jaguar Parts List, and a quick scan of the rest of the engine section shows no other changes that occurred at the same engine number. I think this backs up my conclusion that both oil filter systems could be used.
David, reviewing your tiny url, I see that your main disc on the oil assy was disconnected. Mine is firmly attached and the center tube DOES seem to be pinged into position. At first I thought that was my missing item #3 but clearly not. It looks like I can buy the spring XKS p/n JA-6159 (curiously the spring in my photo was inside the paper filter and a completely different size). I can buy the felt washer p/n JA-11665. I need the dimensions of the pressure plate including the depressions specs (currently unavailable at XKS) unless you know another source.
With all that, I can simulate your setup? How is your rubber seal holding on to the edge of the oil canister? The skinnier of the two provided with XKS p/n 02-GFE101P fits into my groove in the main body; the fat one I can’t see a use for. Am I supposed to use both? I just need to assure that oil flow/filtering is completely safe. -Steve
I believe yours is correct. Mine is loose, and can be removed in certain orientations. I can live with it, so I haven’t attempted to fix it more firmly.
The pressure plate #3 is important. It seals the end of the filter, thereby forcing all the oil (which enters the canister OUTSIDE the filter element) to pass through the filter so it can leave the canister through the center hole in the housing. The spring and steel washer press the plate against the end of the filter element, and the felt washer seals around the hole the bolt passes through. Unless someone else comes up with a source for the pressure plate (part number 11666), you may have to fabricate your own. I had to do this myself a couple of years ago when I mislaid the original when changing the oil filter. It either rolled off into some dark corner of my garage, or maybe got stuck to the old filter and was discarded. Anyway, after several hours searching, I decided to make my own. I just cut a disk of steel sheet and drilled a hole for the bolt in the center. I then used a ball peen hammer to create the domed center by pounding it into a suitably sized socket. The dome is sized to fit the hole in the center of the filter element. It probably needs to be 1/4" deep or maybe more. If it isn’t deep enough, the spring will not allow the canister to be pushed far enough into the housing to seal properly on the O-ring.
On the occasion that I did the photos you’ve seen, the O-ring happened to stick to the rim of the canister when I removed it. It had never happened before, or since. I guess the oil just stuck it there. It was using a skinny O-ring, which must not have been touching the sides of the groove, or it would have stayed in the housing.
I believe the thick O-ring is intended for another application of the filter element. The thin one fits, but may be too thin. Do not use both. Some on this forum have reported sanding down the thicker one into a trapezoidal profile and using it with some success. I have used a thin one successfully, though it may be a little hit and miss. If the O-ring is too thin (the last ones I got from XKs with their filter seemed thinner than in the past), it can move around radially in the groove. The sides of the square O-ring will not be supported by the groove, and so when the bolt is tightened the edge of the canister may cause the O-ring to buckle in the groove, and not seal properly. You will find several examples of fellow members complaining of this in the archives. It has never happened to me, but I now use the WIX 51183 filter element which comes with a square-section O-ring which seems to fit the groove better. To reduce the chance of buckling the O-ring, I push the canister into the groove against the pressure of the internal spring, and then tighten the bolt. I do not allow the canister to rotate while tightening the bolt for fear of damaging the seal.
Further to my last post I encourage you to go to the SNG Barratt web site to look at their oil filter housing section for the Series 2. A couple of interesting points:
They show two versions (as expected) with the same engine number switch-over point. However, the illustration of the later version does not show a short/stubby canister. It looks just like the ones we have. The gasket to the block looks correct also.
Though they show the domed Pressure Plate for the second version #11666 as not available, they show that it is superceded by the #6886 part (which is the pressure plate for the earlier version). So it would appear that you can buy that version as a substitute. No need to make your own…
The new SNG web site seems to be a great improvement over the old version. I am impressed how easy it was to find what I was looking for.
Does anybody have specific details on temporarily hooking up fuel to the carbs, bypassing the tank and pump (and filter). Does anybody know what the spec. fuel pressure is normally? I just want to test the start of the engine now that I’ve rebuilt both carbs, drained and refilled the oil/filter. Photos would be nice.
I have two full extinguishers on standby!
Or as an alternative, can I use a 1gal. can, and run the supply hose to the fuel pump? The fuel tank does not run under pressure does it?
Steve not sure if this helps but here are the oil filter canister parts as they came out of my '68. I switched to the spin-on filter adapter on my car several years ago.
If your fuel pump is working you can just disconnect the hose from the fuel tank and stick it into a gallon can of fresh fuel. Would be a good idea to disconnect the line where it goes into the carbs and flush through a bit of gas to clean the lines and filter. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Be carefull to avoid any sparks. No smoking! Tank is not under pressure
