I give… part of the process of removing the engine is “Remove the revolution counter generator complete with cables.” Where is this? Is it possible my engine is missing it? Is it supposed to be at the back of the intake valve cover?
Steve;
Your car has a electronic tach fired off the distributor I believe.
The books are written for all years so just proceed on.
Good luck, Joel.
Ok. Next. It says to remove the handbrake handle to get the tunnel cover off to access the prop door; and references removal of 3 set screws; How? I removed the inside seatbelts and the tunnel cover is free other than being able to lift it over the brake handle.
Mike’s a S1, may be similar. I have to have the shift lever pushed forward into first gear, then lift the console up and forward to get it to clear the handbrake. It take a little finagling to wiggle the handle end through the slot in the console. It may behoove you to unscrew the shift knob, if it gets in the way.
Have you removed the 3 screws that retain the console to the shaft tunnel? At least there 3 on a S1 car, one at the bottom/rear on the driver side and two on the passenger side. Seats need to be out to get to them.
I certainly did not do that on my S2.
As I recall there is only one screw holding the console on a Series 2 (passenger side forward [LHD], plus the two seat belt eye-bolts which also serve to secure the back end of the console to the tunnel.
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That’s what I have found and they are out. My S2 has a/c if that matters
Where is it hanging up? Would it come out if the handle pulled straighter up? You can loosen the cable in the rear where it attaches to the IRS. Then the handle will tilt up straighter.
I do recall that I had to find a sweet spot to get it to clear and lift away (like the dash top). Possibly raised high in the back and the handbrake set about half way.
I definitely did not undo anything on the handbrake but can see that that might make it much easier.
Yup, that’s it. Well, that and gravity.
I found it easier to slide the front of the console under the AC unit, with the rear raised high, slide the handbrake lever into the slot and then lower the rear of the console.
Tried John’s approach this morning after a cup of coffee. The front of the cover gets bound up and can’t slide forward under the a/c because it won’t clear the top of the shifter dome and the hand brake enough. And by the way, what exactly am I trying to access as part of the “drop the engine” conversation?.
I’m assuming the top photo is another car right? (nm, I see now that you’re aiming the camera under the console. Try John’s suggestion of disconnecting the brake handle bracket since you’ve exposed the slotted mounting screws. Be careful you don’t fubar the screws! They may be corroded. Use penetrating oil and an impact wrench if you have one)
I’m going to have to go back to my suggestion of disconnecting the cable in the rear. This should allow the handle to pull up higher and permit you to raise the rear of the console off the handle. I’d then lower the handle down again to get it out of the way. Then if you pull the shift lever back into 2nd gear I’d bet you can slip the console back instead of forward.
As to what is necessary for a simple engine out, it’s possible that you didn’t have to do any of this. I did, and it made it easier and gave me more options. With the console out, the trans cover off, and the shift lever unbolted, the engine/trans assembly can be jockeyed around more easily, but people have described dropping it straight down right through the console. It looks like your gaiter is attached to the shift tower so it would need to stay behind. So at a minimum the knob and ferrule need to come off to allow the lever to pass through the leather gaiter as the trans is dropped. If just getting the engine out is your goal it’s probably worth a shot.
Steve,
I remove the large flat headed screws on the front of the E-brake mounting bracket which you can see now that the console cover is lifted up. Also one at the top of the rear, that lets the e-brake handle move upward almost vertical. Once in that position the handle can be pushed through although sometimes it takes some force tog et the rim at the top of the handle through. I tilt the console cover at that point to let the large rim end slip through.
I don’t like removing the E-brake cable under the car myself and this method works every time for me
The ONLY thing Id remove, for dropping the engine, was the shift knob.
After removing the trans mount, Id get the prop shaft bolts from below. As the enine dropped, Id snip the reverse light wires, then add on extensions, for the next guy, which, sometimes, was ME!!!
Sounds totally doable to me. I had more stuff to clean up and work on so it made sense to clear everything out first.
Perhaps: the Vast majority of the times for me was clutch jobs, and/or rebuilds, so generally, they needed nothing done on the interior.
You probably used the little known method of replacing the clutch without removing the engine or IRS…
It doesn’t sound like that to me. If all that needed doing was a new clutch, I’d just drop it straight down without removing the interior. It just doesn’t seem necessary as long as the torsion bar is off the car.
Hehe!
No, I never attempted it, that way: I only knew of the butchery it took (some seem to have figured out how, w/o), and I’m agin it!
In the day, it just never seemed
to be that egregious to drop the engine: rockin,’ I could do it on my own in 6 hours.
BUT…when the IRS and/or engine was out? The propshaft was serviced!!
(BTW, I think it would be cool as hell to find a plexiglass prop cover so I can admire the gear box as I’m cruising down the road!) Finally made a little progress today. Sometimes the slowest part of this process is interpreting what they mean by the descriptions they give. Is this foam original? (Found under the prop cover) what is the “engine rear mounting plate? Am I pointing to it under the prop in one of the photos?
