That does appear to be the original foam insulation: I toyed with the idea of replacing it with urethane foam (non-oil absorbing) when/if I ever gotta round tuit, to doing the 5-speed.
I’m assuming that is the rear motor mount.
LLoyd
In order to keep our big corporations prosperous, make the one percenters richer, and give the working class the artificial impression of prosperity, we require a small, controlled war in at least one country at all times.
LLoyd 2006
That does look like the grungy, oil soaked, messy, heavy piece of detritus that I removed from the top of my transmission (early Series 1.5).
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I’m betting they are referring to the plate and spring assembly that is commonly referred to as the transmission mount. That, and the two engine mounts at the front of the engine are all that’s keeping the engine from falling out of the car. I’m ignoring the engine stabilizer on the bulkhead when I say that.
Believe it or not that foam piece is original and can be cleaned up fairly well. You’ll need rubber gloves, a bucket or deep sink, cheap laundry detergent and a source of hot water. Just mix up a super soapy hot water solution and put the foam piece in and squeeze and kneed it, pull it out and squeeze s much oil/water out as you can. change the water and repeat until you are not getting any more oil out. Rinse and squeeze dry and leave in the sun for a few days. If it’s in good shape otherwise than oily I 'd do that rather than toss and replace it because they are NLA.
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Yes it’s the transmission mount. Don’t just start unbolting it . Jack up the trans and put wood or a jack stand under it. Then move the jack to the mount and take the weight off it. Then undo the bolts and when free lower the jack slowly to remove it.
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Was this an option in ‘69? This might be an issue!
I can’t decide on a caption?
- Rats need a place to live too…
- Maybe he thought the logo said “Ratuar”
- “Mickey, I love what you’ve done to the place!”
That may explain why it ran for 5 seconds then quit.
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A little “Muffler Bandage”, and you’re golden.
I would like to build a wooden engine dolly (on wheels) to lower the engine straight on to and I saw one on a thread a while back but can’t find it. Does anybody have a design and/or link to fit the 4.2l engine/trans comfortably on to?
in my AC car I had to remove the AC evap before the center console, but then mine is a useless accessory as I dont have AC anymore, so the hoses are not there, I just keep it to blow air on the Princess when she rides with me. mostly to drown out her complaining of the heat/noise/smell, etc.
I used this from HF:
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-x-12-in-1000-lb-capacity-hardwood-dolly-63095.html
I added a couple of side pieces to give the sump some guidance:
While working on the engine I had the hoist attached just in case:
Most of the work will be on an engine stand so the dolly can be fairly simple and mainly needed for attaching the gear box and rolling out from and back under the car.
I designed something to attach to the engine transmission to carry the engine upright to Lithonia and back for the rebuild. I never built it though because I just decided to lay the engine down on it’s side.on a pallet and old tire.
Probably overkill for just the garage but add a few castors and this would work.
I used a scrap piece of 2x12 and some old coasters I had laying around.
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I wasn’t comfortable with depending on the flatness of the pan. The side braces you see in the picture are ‘relieved’ by drilling holes to match the oil sump bolts. I got a tight fit so it wouldn’t rock at all. Unfortunately for many situations, I exact fit
it while inverted on an engine stand, so I have no exact specs. Even though most guys just sit the thing flat due to the pan shape, I was nervous about that.
Size and design of the dolly may depend in part how you will be removing and installing the engine and what the engine hoist looks like…
I needed a fairly small dolly so the legs of the hoist could get past each side of it to raise and lower the engine from the side with the engine frame in place.
I bought a couple (only needed 1 for the engine and box assy) of furniture
dollies from HF and then placed four pieces of 2 x 10 (two then two on top)
to stiffen up the whole thing. Cheap and worked like a charm.
Yeah. . ., but you know I’m into overkill. 
Anybody have any experience with https://monocoque-metalworks.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage and his sill improvement kits? I did crawl under my car yesterday and the drivers sill is HEAVILY rusted. I found a peaky hole on the “new” panel that I could see thru to all the rust.
For on open car it probably makes good sense since it lacks an enclosing roof. Not sure how much it will really help a closed car though. They are a fine company though. Never heard a bad word about their products.
Chuck at Monocoque is a great guy and his products and work are top notch. I would buy an endoscope that connects to your phone, tablet, or laptop to see into all the nooks and crannies of your car to evaluate the condition of all the hidden panels. For example:
NAYYY…
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Soon, Martin Robey will be hearing about a BEEG order of tin, headed for central Tejas…