What is the correct order to get all four corners in the air? Where do I place the stands in the rear? Do I place the stands in the rear first then jack the front? I like the 2x4 blocks under the rear tires idea but will jack stands suffice?
I have a number of his parts in my car - I have already welded them all in and and proved to be fantastic. I also have a number of Robey parts. They are good, and were “the way to go” for many years and we are thankful. Chucks parts do seem to be better, however. Of course not having that crap black paint on them is a plus by itself. If any of his stuff doesn’t fit perfect it’s your car that is messed up, not his parts!
With the snoot off?
It takes a couple passes: either end up, about halfway on the stands, then thevrest of the way.
Front stands, under the body frame horns, just aft of the rear torsion bar mounts (since you are disassembling the front): rears, same body frame horns, just forward of the IRS.
Or, if you are saving the front disassembly for later, under the inner fulcrum points for the lower control arm.
Remove the IRS, first, then the engine, as we discussed.
What are you referring to as the “body frame horns”?
Is the book referring to the 9x9x1 wood to sit on the top of the jack then jack the center of the rear suspension?
I think Paul was referring to the rails that run the length of the body. I added wood pieces front and rear to protect the metal a bit when using jack stands in those spots.
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What Geo said…
You need a new muffler mount Geo!
Purdy wood. Is that Oak? I should do this, maybe a nice French polished mahogany.
It’s a trick of the light (camera flash). Here is another view confirming the rubber bit is still firmly attached:
Get an Aussie to send you strips of jarrah wood: that’s what John Bennett brunged me, when he and his wife, visited from Perth, 10-11 years ago.
(He also brought me a piece of Skylab, but I digress…)
I put it in the picture frame, and it remains there! Beautiful wood, and it’s harder than the hubs of hell!!
Well color me jelly. That’s some authentic NASA kitch right there.
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He went to Esperance, just after Skylab crashed, and got some insulation foam that was part of it…one of my most cherished possessions!!
Does THIS make me an ubergeek, er wut!!!
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My god, It’s full of stars.
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Anybody have any experience with https://monocoque-metalworks.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage and his sill improvement kits?
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Chuck was great! Sills fit as advertised, and he made me, to order, several sections of the rear end - complex curved parts that fit like a charm, despite my rudimentary welding skills. He also fabricated the angles that hold the central section to the wings of the bonnet - all were rusted, full length. More importantly, he spent time on the phone talking me through welding techniques and equipment. A pleasure to deal with.
Vlad
Good to hear that rookies are trying this whole welding/body repair skill. I was a welding engineer in the day with HIGH respect for the talent of the welders in the shop. I have NEVER tried to lay a bead!
And thus spake Ericaustra…
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When yer done, we’ll confer upon you, Newest Member of the JL “I did it myself!” Club!”
Cleverrrrrrrr boy!!!
Looks like the directions assume you want to completely remove the mounts (which perhaps you do).
But for now you can leave them in place which requires the removal of:
1 & 2 are 2 long bolts and nuts.
3 & 4 are nuts only (there’s a stud there).
5 & 6 are 2 short bolts and nuts.
So - 6 nuts and 4 bolts.
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If you add the 4 nuts/bolts mentioned in the beginning that adds up to 8 bolts and 10 nuts