1969 Jag S2 FHC, 4.2l Rebuild Story

Steve,
In your pic, on the RH side of the pic you can see the heads of two bolts,
two more on the other side gives you the four nuts bolts in the first step.

On the LH side of your pic you can see the heads of two bolts and one nut,
sam on the other side so that makes the six mentioned in the second step.

Last you have the prop shaft, that should be obvious.

Under the car you’ll see the handbrake cable and it’s associated fixings.

Hope this helps.

When you are done it will look like this (left/drivers side, same as your photo):

I wouldn’t get too hung up on the exact nut and bolt count mentioned in the manual as it is difficult to tell what they are removing, are they talking about both sides, are they counting the propshaft flange, etc.

Not sure what’s confusing anyone here. Seems perfectly clear to me. Maybe being a Brit helps! Assuming your photo has the front of the car on the left, the 4 long bolts and nuts referenced are the bolts labelled 1&2 (x2 for each side) in Geo’s annotated version of the photo. The six self locking nuts and 4 bolts are the ones labelled 4,5 &6 (x2 for each side). Leave all the other nuts and bolts alone. What’s not to understand?

-David

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…NAAAAW!!!

I got it now, I think the hidden nuts and the whole don’t drop this thing on my head scenario was making me Nervous. Just needed some affirmation. I got the nuts off the prop shaft, but the flanges seem to be fused together. The bolts won’t budge!

Just needs a bit of percussive polishing…

:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Using one of these (modified - ears cut off and plywood platform added) made it very stable to lower, wheel around and re-install:

https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

Adding a couple of clamps made it solid:

The same jack is useful for handling the gearbox when you get to that point:

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Heading to HB! I need a break! 4 hours to remove a little over 1/2 of the hardware. Did the Brits not have any ratchet tools? The clearances on half this stuff won’t accept any ratchets. Good old fashioned caveman techniques employed… :beer::beer::beer:

Ratcheting box wrenches are sometimes helpful - but the older I get the more I appreciate pneumatic tools, including air-powered ½" and ¼" ratchets.

When dealing with wrench-clearance issues, remember (obvious but easy to forget) you do not have to always turn the nut - holding the nut and turning the bolt works just as well.

Some of the most useful tools I own are slimline ratchet ring spanners - 12 point. Also multiple open end and ring spanners cut at half length, fitted with heat shrink tube, so as not to scratch paint. I didn’t need these before I owned Jaguars! Paul

It’s not budging! Everything else is loose. I can’t even get the bolts to turn. Suggestions?

You will probably be using new bolts and new nuts there when you put it back together so you may just have to do what it takes to get it apart.

A wrench (6-point socket if it will fit, a box or flare wrench if not) fitted onto a bolt head and then struck with a hammer in the loosening direction may get it done. Hitting a box wrench with a hammer can give the ‘shock & awe’ of an impact and sometimes loosen something that merely pulling on a wrench can’t move.

BTW - I think most leave the stabilizer bar attached to the body and disconnect from the IRS for dropping the unit. Once undo from the suspension it can be lifted up and away.

Do you mean you can’t get the four bolts in the drive shaft flange to turn? And you can’t get the driveshaft flange and diff flange to separate? If the nuts are removed the bolts should be free. Try soaking them with PB Blaster. The drive shaft should slide forward, especially if the transmission end has been disconnected and pushed back in the sliding section of the driveshaft.

Exactly what I mean. And the other end is detached but won’t slide back enough to clear the captivated bolts either (at the gearbox)

+1 for PB Blaster.

In addition, you may also be able to get it started by using a moderately-wide wood chisel as a wedge between the flange faces. If the chisel will seat neatly between the edges of the faces, a few taps at a few locations may make a difference. I am not suggesting that you give it everything you’ve got when you tap it, though it is a pretty robust part of the vehicle. Just a suggestion.

There isn’t really a lot of extra room to separate both ends of the shaft without either the engine or the IRS being out. Push the shaft forward until it is reengaged with the trans and that will disengage it from the diff.

What I would try with that is to get a heavy deadblow hammer hammer and give it multiple whacks while turning the propshaft. Often the repeated shocks will slowly loosen things up and the hammer will do no damage. Don’t give up too soon. I thought my arm was going to fall off before I finally loosened my intake manifold that way. You might also be able to fit a prybar in to lever the bolt back as you tap not too hard on the flange. Good luck.

Good idea, remember the flanges are heavy steel and minor damage can easily be dressed with a file. You aren’t going to hurt them unless you really whale on the chisel.

Have you tried to knock the bolts back with a drift and hammer?

Consider using a torch - like the gas ones you used for joining copper pipes. heat up the flange till it is too hot to touch, but not glowing. Have fire extinguisher standing by… and no fuel in the tank. Even a little heat will often do wonders.

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Steve;
Alternate blows to the bearing retainer area on the flange that attaches to the diff flange. A dead blow hammer is great. If that doesn’t work then use a metal chisel at the joint of the two flanges.
Give it a try.
Joel.