I would do this through a piece of tallow wood (insert indigenous hardwood). Perhaps it’s not quite the “Swiss cheese” effect - holes in each half part have closed onto either side of the bolt shank and rusted there. Need to separate the faces. Paul
When you reach impasses like this, it’s a good idea to smother it in PB Blaster and let it percolate overnight. I’ve had things practically fall apart after a day or so in penetrating oil.
It’s morning and it definitely isn’t falling apart. Has anybody successfully separated the prop u-joint in place?
Haven’t had to do this particular ujoint but have removed ujoints in place with one of these tools. You should have enough room in there to do it. image|666x500
Do you have an air hammer? The consistent pulsing/pounding might help. Relatively inexpensive and might be worth the purchase at this stage of your restoration.
.aaaand this is how your tool collection WILL grow, in the next cuppla years!!!
Success! Kind of! I ended up finding just the right chisel to open enough daylight to cut all the bolts. I think I used every tool in the shop. Now the “darn” radius arms won’t come off. Fused to the body. Hacking away at the rubber to free it…
Remember what I said, about when you reassemble, to buy stock in NoSeez???
Check carefully, did some moron PO weld the bolts to the flange?
It’s not uncommon to have to cut away the rubber and then attack the cup itself with a cutting disc on a Dremel tool. If you are careful with the Dremel it’s possible to cut a vertical slot down the cup and not even touch the mounting point that’s attached to the car. Then get a chisel and hammer to work knocking off the cup. If you do not have a Dremel tool invest in one of the higher end models with variable speeds.
1 Like
Heat will likely be required to free the cup from the body. It probably would have been better to leave the arm attached because it would have left you something to pry against. Most people rig up a 3 leg gear puller to press the assembly off the body cone.
Who would have known the final step in disassembly is “dremel the rubber disc out” I actually own that tool!
1 Like
You are halfway home then. If you choose to slit the cup use a reinforced cutting disc and you will find the lower part of the cup doesn’t directly contact the cup on the car. that’s where you want to drive your chisel. it will expand the slit cup and it should come off easily after that.
1 Like
Regarding the radius arm…Here’s a way:
- remove the bolt and big washer
- re-insert the bolt (only) so it’s head is just inside the cup, but not all the way in
- use the head of the bolt as a fulcrum point for levering the cup off
(see pictures below) To make a lever you can use a 18" socket extender bar, a hex cold chisel that you can get into the cup hole, perhaps 1/2" wide at its cutting edge, and a socket that holds the hex cold chisel to the extender bar. Together this makes a nice long lever and with the bolt as fulcrum. You are not using the cold chisel in its traditional mode as a destroyer, just as something that fits in the hole on the end of your lever.
This is not my photo but rather a picture I found here on J-L that guided me as I did the same Dremel treatment to remove one of mine:
Prying doesn’t do near enough and the Dremel will work, but I found an easier way from some knowledgeable local Jag guys that choose to remain anonymous. Take a pneumatic impact hammer and tap the cup all the way around and it will fall off. My impact hammer was MIA so I used a regular hammer and hit it all the way around a couple of times and then the cup fell off in my hand. Sweet. The radius arms had never been off of my car since it was built in November 1966.
–Drew
2 Likes
Ok. I’m to the point I need to verify my procedure for engine removal. The IRS is off, the car is sitting on blocks. If I use the floor jack to take pressure off the gearbox in order to remove the support plate under it, do I leave it in position? Not sure what the engine bolt on the firewall is rated to hold? Then use the engine hoist to remove the weight off the engine mounts?
69 Coupe
I’ll let the real masters on the forum give you the process. BUT, I do know re: your first issue on supporting the trans, YOU HAVE TO ALSO SUPPORT THE ACTUAL BRACKET WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BOLTS OR THE SPRING WILL SCREW UP YOU ENTIRE DAY WHEN IT TAKES FLIGHT.
Mark
2 Likes
I’ve done it as follows:
-
Run a length of chain through the lifting brackets, secure the ends of the chain to one another with a heavy bolt washers and nut or an “S” hook. Attach the hook on the engine lift to the chain. I also cut a length of 2X2 just the right length to firmly fit between the lifting brackets. I know the brackets are strong bt I have visions of being pulled toward one another when the weight of the engine is on the chain and one of them snapping. See picture below. I
-
Run a floor jack under the pan with a length of 2X8 between the jack and pan.
-
Use another small jack and a small block of wood under the transmission mount, situate the block directly under the spring. Jack it up until it contacts the transmission mount.
-
Remove the bolts (5 on a series II) that hold transmission mount in place. carefully lower the jack until the spring is fully extended then remove the spring and mount.
-
Remove the big bolt on each engine mount.
-
Using the engine hoist list the engine until there is space between the engine mounts and brackets that attach to the engine.
-
Raise the jack under the engine to keep the engine from falling should the hoist fail. Not likely but why not be extra careful.
-
Remove the engine mount brackets from the engine on each side.
-
remove the floor jack and lower the engine to whatever you are sitting it on.
All of the above assumes you have removed the reaction plate and all hoses, wires, tubes etc. that connect to the engine/transmission.
