So you need to disconnect the top ball joint and the tie rod and the sway bar. That will allow the lower wishbone to drop to its lowest point and do relieve the load on the t-bars. Have a jack under the lower wishbone before releasing the ball joints and sway bar, then you will be able to slowly lower the wishbone and so slowly release the t-bar load.
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If you hook the engine and lift it just a quarter inch (with all the mounts disconnected of course) and you see the body move at all, then yes, you’ll have to readjust your center of balance. But I suspect you’ll be okay. I was afraid you might try to lift up the p-frame to allow the engine to slip out because that is the most common method.
The only trick to the frames is that the front bonnet frame and the picture frame come off as a unit, so all four corners of the frame need to be unbolted, and the engine weight must be off them before you do that. It can either be hanging in the air if you wish, or you can lower it to the ground. No measurements need to be taken. You just bang them back together after and once all of them are bolted together (assuming there’s no frame damage) then it should be within spec to be aligned using the standard alignment options. I’d bag and tag all the bolts though so you don’t end up with a bolt mystery later.
I did this same thing with steel tube, was even able to steer the assembly easily.
When I dropped the engine from my E-type several years ago it was after the IRS was removed. I had jack stands positioned at the extreme rear ends of the floor frame rails
The stripped monocoque is rear-heavy. In order to stabilise it I had to drop 150 pounds of counterweight (in the form of three bags of blasting grit) in the footwell areas
This is the original thread, but I advise against clicking on any of the photobucket links unless you want to be swamped with ads
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That us what I would do: counterweight the floor pans, AND do the cross support under the kickovers, above where the IRS goes.
Belts and suspenders!
Agreed that would be a sensible precaution.
Steve,
I would have had a nice set of pictures if you had asked me last week.
I removed the engine on Saturday to replace the rear main seal. Took most of the day. Now the motor is having its crankshaft ground for the modern lip seal conversion and new ring gear fitted. Sorry.
Any brilliant suggestions for freeing this tie rod end? My can of aeroKroil arrived and it’s been soaking. I have been gently whacking it 90° from the taper on the knuckle while I pull up on the arm and nothing!
An actual functional Chinese tool!
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Or this kit:
I’ve found it easier to separate the tie rod end from the control arm if the suspension isn’t fully extended downward.
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Run the nut down a ways. Take a block of hardwood on your pump jack. Tension the tie rod end up on the thread & nut. Do not lift the car off the jack stand but compress the suspension. Hit with a hard yellow plastic hammer.
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Got one, love that tool. I’ve never had it just pop the joint, but torque it up, give the joint a couple of wacks, then repeat has never taken more that 2 attempts. And unlike the pickle fork it has never torn a boot. I tend to leave the nut at the end of the stud, that way things don’t go flying.
That is the one I use for the tie rods and ball joints.
If you do try the ‘hammer’ on it - best results usually come by putting a big hammer against one side and hitting the other side with a 2nd hammer. Some say to hit both sides at the same tie but I have never been able to do that. The idea is to momentarily oval the hole.
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Yup that works. If’n you aren’t in a big hurry, I’ve just put it under pressure and walked away. A short time later I hear the satisfying pop.
Thats yer problem: GENTLY.
Whack the living CRAP out it: it will pop loose.
NO pickle forks!!! At one time, yea: it most likely will damage a possibly-good tie rod end.
I still have mine in my toolbox, but I like Erica’s solution better.
The spreader is indeed better, but, with few exceptions, the WHACK method has always worked, for me.
In my defense I did say to use a pickle fork only if you don’t plan to reuse the joint. I have also used the 2 hammer whack it hard method but have always wondered about damaging the arm. Interested to see if anyone thinks my concern is realistic. Erica’s tool is my favorite if I want to save the joint but I have occasionally had one that would not budge with that method.
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