You did, indeed!
Whacking forgings like that, in that area, will not damage them, beyond a smallish dent.
Good to know. Probably don’t want to do it on your freshly nickel plated suspension parts though!
If done corectly, Ive never observed any damage, to the nickeling.
You must be more accomplished with a bfh than I am. I tend to end up with collateral damage😂
Success! Thank you Erica for the link to the bj separator, thanks Dad for handing down your etching pen to mark the TB locations, and thanks Granddad for handing down my favorite hammer! It’s older than the Jag!
Early on…me too!
I used a machinist’s ball pein hammer, which concentrates the force in such a way that minimizes rhe possibility of a miss!
Raise your hand if you’ve ever accidently hit the lip of the wheel opening with a hammer while banging on a knockoff.
(Rustle in the crowd as a forest of arms shoot up).
I think I’ll buy a length of 1/2" pipe insulation; the kind that is dark grey, fairly dense foam and slit up the side. I’ll slip a piece about 3 feet long in the boot. If I need to remove a wheel in the field Ill slip it over the lip of the wheel well to protect the paint from errant blows.
Excellent idea!!
I never hit one…
Never yet, on any of my cars. Hope I didn’t just give it a kinahora,
But, I distinctly remember c 1974 watching at the neighborhood service
station as the tire buster attempted to undo the k/o on a Porsche
Speedster.
It was shiny, shiny, black with Rudge wheels. The owner was looming over
the guy, and I’m guessing he insisted on the rubber faced hammer. Of
course it didn’t transfer enough force, BUT it did rebound to hit the
fender lip on EVERY blow!
I watched in youthful bewilderment and dismay, and got out of there before
the situation escalated.
Best, alan
That’s actually a great idea. I know just the foam you’re speaking of. It’s all over my water heater pipes. I haven’t hit mine yet, but I’m really paranoid about it, especially the rears. I can easily see how it could happen especially out in the blazing TX sun.
NEXT STEP…?
I am to the point I believe I need to REMOVE the torsion bars & reaction plate. Searching the forum came up with something from 2006. I will ask the current class…
Plan:
Lower engine onto cart and bring out the front of the car by removing front picture frame. (disassembling all forward struts to recondition/replace)
Current car status:
- IRS is out. Car supported by redundant stands in rear.
- upper wishbone knuckles disconnected and hubs dangling,
- tie rod ends disconnected,
- sway bar disconnected,
- upper shocks disconnected,
- engine stabilizer nut/washer disconnected,
- lower grounding strap disconnected, (and all other minor connections)
Remaining: (need to know the order and details) <-------------THE QUESTIONS!
- torsion bars still in place,
- reaction plate still in place,
- rear engine support (under gearbox) still in place.
I’d get temporarily reattach the upper ball joints to give you something solid to work against. Then take apart the brakes, the steering arm, and the hubs/disks. It’s a lot easier to do with something firm to wrench against.
Then undo both ball joints and remove the upright, and shock, and sway bar. With the lower control arm dangling there will be zero twisting force on the t-bar, so remove the two rear bolts on the splined receiver. Remove the tiny front bolt that passes through the lower control arm then prop up the lower control arm till it points straight out to the side. The splined receiver will rotate since it is no longer bolted down. Now the bar is under zero stress, and can be tapped backward from the front until it is free of the splines on both ends.
Mark Torsion bars as to side and mounting groove so you can put them back exactly from whence they came.
Lift engine a little bit to remove weight on car, remove bolts to remove reaction plate and that ground strap between engine and transmission then remove transmission mount (rear engine support under transmission)
Place dolly under car, lower engine and trans onto it. Undo engine hoist from engine and attach to picture frame with straps. (You may need to set on longest boom setting 0.5 ton). Use engine hoist to raise car, get not so bright friend to go under raised car and pull engine/trans out from under it.
Voila!
Are you going to get new frames or just redo yours… insert evil laugh here.
All three must be removed.
Marco
Any specific order…?
Not really…
Do not try to remove A and B before all tension is off the bars.
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Are we thinking that Steve needs to remove the torsion bars?
Certainly not necessary for removal of the reaction plate but perhaps there is another reason.
Here at least a S2 gives you some help as the bars should be marked. Witness marks for position can be backed up with good digital photos of each end (after cleaning the area):
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A/B hold the t-bar receiver to the reaction plate. C holds the reaction plate to the car. I do that last.