James,what brand battery do you have ?
Thanks
Patrick
'66 fhc
Steve,
Are you contemplating just renewing rings and maybe sending head to CW ?
Just askin,
Patrick
'66 fhc
-David
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Mine has a fresh paint spray that I feel is just hiding rust. What is plastigaging? The cylinder walls look ok, but I am still sourcing a gage to measure them. The engine is supposed to only have 14k miles!
I have been told (wiggles) that the rope seal if properly installed is fine. Leaning that way. I am a total rookie at all of this, but quite engineering savy (former mfg engineer of commercial satellites “Andrew Corp”) but would love a step-by-step guidance for this rolling project. So far, quite entertaining.
Heading to Florida today to chill at Seaside. Noticed that CW is on the way…! Perhaps a stop to drop off the head.
That’s what I did. Shouldn’t be an issue.
plastigage
I highly recommend that, could you snap shop pics (if Dick approves). I’m in middle Florida, and if I can’t get my '66 fhc rolling I plan on hauling it to CW; they rebuilt my head.
Patrick
'66 fhc
PS: Consider not disturbing the low miles crank, oil pump, timing chains; as new chains I’ve found are way too tight. And new timing chain pads are repros. Plus the lower chain tensioner are repros…maybe even keep clutch and flywheel, but throw out bearing might need renewing. Oh bring trans as well to CW too so CW can renew front and rear gearbox oil seals. And…CW can rebuild your rear end diff and it’s companion brakes.
For me, the whole fun is to do it myself, rather than farm anything out.
Three daughters college-bound? NO problem. Teach them body work, welding, valve jobs… Keep them home till they earn tuition.
Rough way to check for piston wear is to see if there is a significant lip above where the rings stop.
Plastigage [Amazon or Pep Boys, etc] is a thin filament of wax that you squeesh between bearing and journal - the resulting flattened width is a good approximation of bearing-to-journal clearance.
Re rust - tap panels with plastic handle of screwdriver. You should notice dullness over bondo or rust. Then poke with the sharp end - if it penetrates, it is rust.
Re advice - if Wiggles, or Erica, or Nick, or Lloyd and several of the gurus, say it, then it is true.
Allow me to elucidate: I have NEVER USED a modern seal conversion, but am fairly familiar with their use on other engines.
The rope seal, properly installed, will work, but will NOT remain as leakfree, as long as a modern lip seal.
To use one, one has to do some extra machining, and they MUST be done correctly.
If you wish to do that upgrade, make DAMN good and sure someone like CW does the work on the crank.
That would be impressive if true. Any other telltale signs? Any wear on the pedal pads? How do the ball joints look, steering rack play etc? Or was the engine rebuilt prior? I believe mine had ~75k, and after a simple cylinder hone, new rings, bearings, timing chains and guides, and rebuilt head it had 160-165 psi on all cylinders which isn’t bad at all.
Paul has turned wrenches on more of these cars than I’ve ever seen. I’ll let him chime in on the average number of miles these can go on a rope seal before they are no longer fine. Mine was installed in the carrier by a shop using the factory tool and it was fine until it wasn’t. Noticeable leaks at 10k miles and at 20k I’m really not happy with the dribbles. In hindsight I really do wish I’d done the retrofit.
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I did: you are correct.
Negative crankcase pressure, via an exhaust PCV valve, helps immensely, but few are willing to do it.
I once hoisted Tweets up, and ran it on high idle: so long as it was running, the rear seal didnt leak (reverse scroll on crank).
I am sure that was NOT the case under partial-to-full load, with positive crankcase pressure.
Hello Patrick,
It is a Yuasa YBX3113.
I bought it a couple of years ago as it was all that was in stock.
It is too small! (by about half an inch in the length).
It works and it is clamped tight so safe however. So its staying.
James
I believe I commented earlier in this thread that there is a good machinist in Arlington, Texas who has the flick on the XK engine. He did the machine work on the head on my engine and on several others in the DFW area (valve guides, replaced two seats, valve job, skimmed head, and gave me a vector to a welder who fixed corrosion around coolant holes). However, he’s too busy to take the time to do the valve train shim set up. But that task is something you should experience at least once in your life. I also know of an excellent crank shaft guy in Irving (as of a few years ago) if you decide to go with a lip seal kit. I installed the Terry’s kit…no leaks thus far, but it only has about 300 miles. PM me if you want their contact info.
As I said in a PM, that engine has 14,000 miles on it, like Im a 100-pound Chinese woman…
Maybe they were REALLY hard miles…!
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Timing cover off, crankshaft caps off, distributor gear and shaft removed. Tomorrow, off with the chains and the crankshaft! Tools ordered to hone the cylinders and measure the tolerances. What did we do before the interwebs? Thank you Al Gore!
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Hi there
Why? I see no reason to dismiss that mileage via what I’ve seen here.
I came across this thread by chance as my car now is a S1 XJ6 …although I’ve owned an E and many other models back to a 54 Mk7.
Been a member of JagLovers almost since its inception.
Always owned a Jaguar at some point during my life. My first car a 66 Mk2 as a kid in the 90s I restored.
Worked at Classic Jaguar in Austin …prior to present management as a kid.
Went on to bigger and better things (sarcasm)
It is one thing to do something as hobby, another as profession. Hated coming home filthy and sore everyday…
Anyway, I felt compelled to say, although I am too late considering all of you’ve done quickly perusing this thread…
Well, perhaps take a moment…take a step back.
While the assistance given thus far is ok and well intentioned, forums can be very misleading…even this one.
I am a perfectionist by nature.I have never had a problem with any of my cars as I go through everything in and out, knowing them…not necessarily replacing everything.
Even new parts fail.
A kind fellow within XJ forum recently reminded me how one can easily develop shipwright’s disease here with this stuff.
You have many other aspects of this car which will need addressing.
This motor looks really good. Perhaps I missed it, but if clearances are not bad here and there, leave it alone.
Believe me, I get the “while I’m there…” concept.
With these cars preventative maintenance over if it ain’t broken…has always served me well.
And I realize this may seem to contradict, but that’s not what I mean.
These motors are not fragile.
You have no cracks in the block or head. Everything looks really good from what I see.
Oh NS how bleassed youa re THAT THERE ARE NO CORROSION ISSUES.
Consider yourself VERY FORTUNATE.
You got a good one there.
Corrosion from sitting and leaving tap water in the motor is a killer on these cars.
Wipe off those crank bearings…what do you see?
THAT will determine mileage and wear to a great extent.
How old is this car? How long has it been sitting? etc…
There is no reason it should not look as it does.
Those chain guides/tensioners look good and appear as new in terms of use/wear.
Sure, do what you’re doing now as you’re already there, but I see nothing wrong with those pistons,etc.
How many threads have we seen by those who have recently rebuilt to the ninth degree their motors to discover problems and issues within short time afterwards?
While it is great, if not fundamentally necessary to disassemble and de-gunk everything, clean out those crank and coolant passageways, etc…unless you see something amiss, you may really be wasting your time, if not messing with an already coherent and harmonious balance of an already good system…
Know what I mean?
Also, many parts today never compare to the originals in terms of quality.
You replace one thing you have to replace another…nothing within a motor works in isolation.
As example, you CANNOT replace pistons without reboring the engine…
Don’t believe me? To spare ourselves typical forum claptrap…
This fellow Nigel Boycott was with Jaguar since 71 or somethign and is very well regarded.
My friend, I am a genuine enthusiast and as obstinate and as driven as they come, however we are all human.
We can all burn ourselves out, and this is something nobody in the classic car community seems to talk about…
How many do we see and hear from who have unfinished projects for years…?
Required years to finish their projects…
How many are sold almost immediately after completion?
These are not temperamental motors which require constant rebuild or one should be afraid will fail or cause problems if it isn’t completely rebuilt…
Let’s remember, we want to enjoy these cars.
Cleaning this up, in and out, replacing head studs, remove core plugs and clean all out, etc…detailing, painting, replacing bearings if no scoring elsewhere…you would have many years of enjoyment from this motor methinks…
But one needs experience to know this.
A bit late now.
It’s easy to take things apart, difficult to put things back together properly.
I would have taken this to this Jaguar specialist you’re mentioning first…or now…
Maybe too late for all this.
But for some reason i fear you’ll become so buried you may lose motivation to complete as many do.
Many have the courage to start, few to finish.
As in life…
You have a lot of other things to do and go over.
A car is not only the motor…you’ve only scratched the surface here.
There WILL ALWAYS be things to tinker on with an old car…you can’t eliminate it all replacing everything hoping to avoid.
While I appreciate you do not have a great deal of experience with these cars, and many don’t…even to this day, and even within this forum, I suggest taking a breath and step back.
Have this Jaguar place look at the motor and clearances as it is and give you their thoughts.
This motor as is could give many years of driving enjoyment.
Check tolerances, if all ok, clean all meticulously, relube, replace seals and put back together i say.
Start breaking up that rear end and rebuild it.
A good place to start for a novice and something which certainly MUST be done.
Clean out that gas tank, blow out the lines…
Consider starting from back to front first until you have them give their pinion on motor.
Excuse the length here and disregard some of the above if I missed it within the thread.
Hate to see you spend a fortune and burn yourself out here…in the end not enjoting the car.
Seen it happen too many times over the years within British car clubs Ive been part of, Jaguar, Rolls Royce…
Take this all for whatever it’s worth to you…
I felt it enough to spend my time writing it…
All the best and thanks for sharing.
Take care.
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I’m still enjoying my purchase and learning all there is to learn! Thanks for the input.
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