Does anyone here own an early 1969 series 2 with this intake/carb configuration… Mine is round can air filter to (missing triangular air box to missing two-flute trumpet to dual Stromberg carbs.) I’m trying to find someone with the same configuration from 1969 to make sure I replace the missing part correctly. Post a photo if you do.
-Steve
fantastic! Is your air snorkel fiberglass or metal?
Great details. I was wondering if my oil fill cap was original because it doesn’t have a “Jaguar” on it. Also, you have the a/c which mine has. I am missing the washer fluid bottle which I suspected went where your is, but had no evidence other than the dangling wires. I’m also missing the heater box/fan.
Your engine bay looks fantastic. Was that all work you did or were you lucky enough to get a car that clean?
-Steve
I believe all the deltas were fiberglass: the snorkels, off the carbs, are metal.
Fiberglas.
I’ve had two 69’s a late January and early February build date. Both had the plain aluminum oil caps.
IIRC some cars, Series II 2+2s, had the washer bottle in the space in front of the gas filter. Ref: Haddock, page 197
Can’t help you on the heater box, sorry.
Thanks. When I bought the car it looked like this:
I did the refurbishment in the pictures in the garage, but later had the drive train professionally rebuilt…
for some reason, my “clutch fluid bottle?” (your bottle in the front) is mounted higher and in the back; after the big fuse. I thought it was because I had a/c, but you do as well and your three bottles seem to be in order like others. (see image 6494 way above)
Any thoughts?
The bottle mounting configuration in your first pictures is not correct. They are correct in the pictures both Bobs and I have posted.
When you redid your engine bay, were you able to source replacement “zip ties” that match the originals?
Yes, all the usual supplier sell that stuff by the roll, along with the plastic buttons. Hint, buy two rolls, it’s cheap and you’ll run about a foot short and it’s annoying to pay more fir freight than the cost of the part if you have to order a second roll.
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Does anybody know the significance of the markings on the dual zenith stromberg carbs. My two show #1carb-194 S3207R and #2-carb- 004 S3207F (unless that last “F” is an “R”?). I ran across that in my weekend work.![IMG_7285|666x500]
I also remove the inlet valve cover to get a glimpse of the inside of my engine. Seems to be oiled although very sludgy when I dabbed a q-tip into the pool of oil. Any comments regarding the appearance? (upload://jgeXtV0uGzvwy7SCjA69RMAY6JL.JPG)
R is for Rear, F for Front.
Marco
Ah!, So simple! Is this type of info available in a publication? I just won on eBay a “THE COMPLETE OFFICIAL JAGUAR E Handbook Workshop Manual Special Tuning 1974 2nd…” and I hope to find such info in it.
Google Joe Curto’s website and you will find a few stromberg-related files & links. It’s good background on things like adjusting the bypass valve.
The supplier I used had the correct straps but the buttons were black, not white. I do not know if anyone sells the white buttons.
Basset says they have the correct white buttons.
http://shop.bassettsinc.com/Rubber-Strapping-Kit-XKE-E-Type-R131.htm
should I be concerned with the slight rust on the backside of the cams?
You are very likely to find differing opinions here. Mine is that the rust you describe should not be of great concern, as long as the most of the surface is sound metal. After all, there should be no hard contact between the tappets/lifters and this part of the cam.
I assume that you are confident that the working parts of the cam (the lobes) are in good shape.
Bob Frisby
S2 FHC, Boise, Idaho
OK boys (and girls). Question of the day:
I am reassembling my front ZS carb and the alignment of the throttle arm to the manual choke cam looks off. Did I assemble something wrong? The cam plate appeared to be twisted when I disassembled it so I flattened it out. (see photo)
