1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story

(Steve) #663

Spent the weekend tagging and unclipping wires. Some were not attached to anything so I will have to recheck upon reassemble. All in all the harnesses look in decent shape.

(L.Lynn '68 OTS, '73 2+2) #664

My first set came from John, the ones I recently installed for a friend came from SNG and they fit every bit as easily as the ones from John. JM2CW

(Tom Peck) #665

Etype Parts (UK), the firm that acquired John’s firm, has them listed on their site - individually and as a set.

(Steve) #666

After initially thinking I could extract the engine wiring harness from the dashboard out to the engine, I ended up extracting it from the engine compartment back under the dash. I had to break the bonnet plug to do that (the original was EXTREMELY well made). It was slimy, greasy, and nasty so hopefully that was a smart move. I have seen replacements in the normal sites but will take suggestions on the best. I did not have to destroy any of the bonnet plug wiring, just the connector. Holy Crap! What a pile! And I still have to remove the drivers side back to the taillights.

(Steve) #667

Well, the forward wiring harness is out.

(Jag Jeff) #668

Hold on to all the old harnesses. There are clamps, some sockets and little parts that do not come with the new harnesses, even from the best suppliers.

(Nick Saltarelli) #669

Very good advice. Overall the Autosparks harnesses I acquired are excellent but they lacked several bullet connector sleeves that I had to scavenge. Also, the minilamp sockets in the dash harness, the ones that plug into the back of the speedo, were substandard and separated from their retainer rings, so I cut them out and spliced in the originals. The old harnesses are also a great source for colour-coded wire when you decide to do a minor mod, like installing an otter switch bypass or fuel pump shutoff, and especially something more involved like a toggle switch retrofit.

Yes, keep those old harnesses.

(Paul Wigton) #670

Anyone need some, I have boatloads on my parts Rovers.

(Jag Jeff) #671

I would use new connectors, The 50 year old metal in the sleeve gets brittle over the years and can break inside the rubber sleeves. They are cheap and worth the money on an electrical system. A small dab of dielectric grease helps keep them from corrosion in the future and assures good contact.

(Paul Wigton) #672

Just took some off a car: were nice and strong.

Not a bad idea, but mine… mine have patina, and are genuine British-made!!!


(Jag Jeff) #673

I had a crap load too. From all makes of Brit cars. I was using a small caliber rifle bore cleaner in a drill to clean them, Several of them broke, so I opted for new from SNG and they fit nicely and worked well. The 4 and 5 position block connectors aren’t cheap though.

(Paul Wigton) #674

No, they are not: I needed one for Tweety, for the wiper wires, and it was about 10 bucks!

However, it worked.

(Robin O'Connor) #675

Nicely done Nick, I prefer the toggles to the rockers. Looking forward to getting my ‘S’ on the road again.

(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #676

Or mechanical brake lamp switch…

(Andrew Waugh) #677

I dip a Qtip in Vaseline and push that through the bullet connector, then dip the bullets in the Vaseline before assembly.

(Erica Moss) #678

Wiggles should have a double entendre field day with this comment.

(Les Halls 1968 S1.5 2+2 Atlanta) #679

I agree and can certainly attest to that. Found a few that were loose and when taken apart, found to have cracked, the result being lousy contact. These were primarily in the area above the left knee of the driver (LHD car). It’s quite surprising how tight the new ones are!

(Paul Wigton) #680

Even I engage certain filters…:nerd_face:

(Jag Jeff) #681

And if the factory had done this during assembly, before shipping the cars to different distant ports on ship decks, there would be no jokes of Lucas-prince of darkness or letting out the smoke.

(Steve) #682

Don’t know if I did it right… BUT I DID IT!