Etype Parts (UK), the firm that acquired John’s firm, has them listed on their site - individually and as a set.
1 Like
After initially thinking I could extract the engine wiring harness from the dashboard out to the engine, I ended up extracting it from the engine compartment back under the dash. I had to break the bonnet plug to do that (the original was EXTREMELY well made). It was slimy, greasy, and nasty so hopefully that was a smart move. I have seen replacements in the normal sites but will take suggestions on the best. I did not have to destroy any of the bonnet plug wiring, just the connector. Holy Crap! What a pile! And I still have to remove the drivers side back to the taillights.
3 Likes
Hold on to all the old harnesses. There are clamps, some sockets and little parts that do not come with the new harnesses, even from the best suppliers.
2 Likes
Very good advice. Overall the Autosparks harnesses I acquired are excellent but they lacked several bullet connector sleeves that I had to scavenge. Also, the minilamp sockets in the dash harness, the ones that plug into the back of the speedo, were substandard and separated from their retainer rings, so I cut them out and spliced in the originals. The old harnesses are also a great source for colour-coded wire when you decide to do a minor mod, like installing an otter switch bypass or fuel pump shutoff, and especially something more involved like a toggle switch retrofit.
Yes, keep those old harnesses.
3 Likes
Anyone need some, I have boatloads on my parts Rovers.
I would use new connectors, The 50 year old metal in the sleeve gets brittle over the years and can break inside the rubber sleeves. They are cheap and worth the money on an electrical system. A small dab of dielectric grease helps keep them from corrosion in the future and assures good contact.
Just took some off a car: were nice and strong.
Not a bad idea, but mine… mine have patina, and are genuine British-made!!!
I had a crap load too. From all makes of Brit cars. I was using a small caliber rifle bore cleaner in a drill to clean them, Several of them broke, so I opted for new from SNG and they fit nicely and worked well. The 4 and 5 position block connectors aren’t cheap though.
No, they are not: I needed one for Tweety, for the wiper wires, and it was about 10 bucks!
However, it worked.
Nicely done Nick, I prefer the toggles to the rockers. Looking forward to getting my ‘S’ on the road again.
I dip a Qtip in Vaseline and push that through the bullet connector, then dip the bullets in the Vaseline before assembly.
Wiggles should have a double entendre field day with this comment.
2 Likes
I agree and can certainly attest to that. Found a few that were loose and when taken apart, found to have cracked, the result being lousy contact. These were primarily in the area above the left knee of the driver (LHD car). It’s quite surprising how tight the new ones are!
1 Like
Even I engage certain filters…
And if the factory had done this during assembly, before shipping the cars to different distant ports on ship decks, there would be no jokes of Lucas-prince of darkness or letting out the smoke.
1 Like
Don’t know if I did it right… BUT I DID IT!
4 Likes
At that rate you should be done by lunch time on Friday.
…and… you did it faster than I did!!
A step backward, after making a wrong turn, is a step in the right direction.
Kurt Vonnegut