1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story

(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #683

At that rate you should be done by lunch time on Friday.

(LLoyd (just a rithmetician)) #684

…and… you did it faster than I did!!

A step backward, after making a wrong turn, is a step in the right direction.

Kurt Vonnegut

(Steve) #685

I was timid to start the main interior removal. But the more I get into this the more I’m digging it! So far so good. I have not seen a single bit of evidence of any sort of body damage from the interior, but quite a few idiosyncrasies that may be original from the factory. like mismatched screws, missing screws (due to poor design and inability to reach them)

(Lester) #686

That uuhhh… that can’t be a real E-Type. I mean there’s no real rust. Kit car? Ultralite all aluminum? Stainless steel reproduction???

(Steve) #687

Is this piece glued in? I’m slowly removing the interior, and this piece has no hardware…

(Jag Jeff) #688

Yes, they are glued to thin foam and then to the wheel well metal. You will destroy them if you take them out. If they are in good shape and you are going back black, leave them alone.

(69 FHC ) #689

What Jeff said. I’m curious as to why your fuel tank is white below the horizontal seam.

(Paul Wigton) #690

Put me down as guessing it has been fiberglassed.

(Puddinhead) #691

Is it a custom racing fuel cell ?

'66 fhc

(Paul Wigton) #692

The top of it appears to be a standard tank.

(Steve) #693

Safely removed the rear hatch and glass. You really notice the factory tinting on all the windows when they are laying on white fabric. The rear glass had the optional defroster and it shows to be intact. That’s exciting! I feel like this car had about all the options that were factory available in 1969.

(Steve) #694

Does anyone know if the body tag under the rear bumper used to be painted with the body or was it a bare metal or was it black? It’s the stupidest of details but I wouldn’t mind getting it right. I’m trying to soak the original tag in something with no solvents. This seems to be softening the overspray from the recent paint job. But I can’t tell if the old paint job is underneath?

(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #695

My S2 had its original paint when I got it and the tag was painted body colour:

(Erica Moss) #696

It’s too early in the game to sweat over details. Keep the show moving along! You’ll still be doing this ten years from now if you get bogged down in minutiae. :smiley:

(Mark ) #697

Same on my SII. It was sprayed with original body color.

(Paul Wigton) #698

Body color on Tweety.

(Jag Jeff) #699

The back side of the tag was most likely left bare metal, and was riveted on to the body while the body was bare metal. If you look at the back of your tag, you will see some red oxide. After riveted on, the body was primered with red oxide and some probably seeped between the two, then, "some " original body color was sprayed on it when the body was painted. The under bumper, behind the stainless panel area, was not a priority to get coated well with body color paint. But was over sprayed when the final color was laid down on the body.

(Steve) #700

I know it’s sounds like minutia, but there is a method to the madness. I am looking for any of the alum rivets that need to come off before acid dipping (if I take that route). With the interior now totally removed, honestly it looks like the rust is only in the most common areas. Left sill, both foot wells, battery well.

(Paul Wigton) #701

Overall, it is looking far more hopeful, than I thought, back in March.

(Erica Moss) #702

That’s a very bare tub. Ooooh I see you have the optional passenger footwell ventilation system installed! It’s fully optioned. :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: