1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story

(Jerry Mills) #703

I know it’s not pictured, but do not acid dip the rear suspension
cage. There is an aluminum plate sandwiched in at the top.
Ask me how I know.

(Jag Jeff) #704

I would get that carpet off of the crossmember and check it for rust. Mine had rusted at the bottom so I drilled the tunnel spot welds out, removed the tunnel and replaced the crossmember. I would also open up the passenger side sill and run a camera in there to check for rust at the bottom and the bottom of the braces. I would also clean the bottom of the floors underneath the car and check for rust through. My car was on a rotissere, so it was fairly easy. I did find a few small places with rust through that I could not see from the inside. You may want to remove the old tar mat that sits on top of the floors, it can hide a lot, too. Go back with modern, more efficient insulation.
I would consider having the car blasted inside and out with the new dustless blasting system, clean it with metal prep, and coat it with 2 part epoxy zinc chromate primer,

PS If you remove the blanking plates on the bulkhead ( which I would) , PB blaster on the nuts/studs underneath and be very careful not to break them off. They aren’t cheap.

(Steve) #705

Parts to start the bodywork arrived. Need to pick some good welding equipment and practice my skills at metalwork.

(Paul Wigton) #706

Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, Solar.

Cant go wrong!

(Nick Saltarelli) #707

Miller mig and spot machines and a Lincoln tig, here. All great at what they’re designed to do. I use all three for bodywork. Hobart another great name. No experience with Solar.

(Steve) #708

Cut off bottom outer sill to reveal the rust damage. Also took off the door to find the edge of the outer sill at the door frame edge. Why didn’t they design the 4 main bolts that hold the hinge to the door with clearance to get the damn screw OUT? Remove the door seal to discover these sheet metal screws. Is that original? With the point sticking through into the door hinge area?

(David Norton) #709

Mine has pop rivets, placed from the inside, in that location. I also agree about the joy of the bolt locations in the door, at least it is a light door.

(Jag Jeff) #711

If I recall correctly, there is a small steel channel that holds the seal and it is riveted in the door channel from the inside. In your pictures I do not see the detachable channels. They are small pieces of metal that have the edges turned in so the seal can be pushed into them and then placed in the door channel and riveted from the inside. Those screws are not stock.

A Post Seal Retainer RH

£8.72 inc Vat

Product Code:


On closer inspection of your second picture I do see the retainer covered with adhesive (?) The screws are not original.

(Paul Wigton) #712

Ah, yes: you are correct. Been YEARS since I looked at one, and you are correct.

(Jag Jeff) #713

It’s been a few years for me too, and I now remember that the seal is glued to the retainer and then riveted to the “A” post. I drilled out a small amount of the seal at the rivet hole so the rivet would not push or bulge the seal . I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to attach the seal to the retainer. It is easier to install these with the door off, but it can be done with the door on. When I painted my car I had all the panels and doors attached and aligned so I didn’t remove the doors to install the seals. I left the seals loose at the top of the body, lowered the glued retainers down the "A’ post, and then applied adhesive to the top along the cowl and then riveted the seal retainers from the inside.

(Erica Moss) #714

What Jeff said. Looking several inches above the top screw I can see a ledge indicating that the seal channel is a separate part (as it should be). On the inside photo I can see what looks like an old hole an inch above the screw which is where the original rivet would have been. No idea why they would have ever removed it, or reinstalled it wrong. You have to be an automotive archeologist to figure out why DPOs do what they do.

(Steve) #715

Update. Removed the trim and unless they used the drilled out rivet holes and ran a screw thru them, there was no additional holes.
Can’t make out the complete part number written on the back; “BD25xx21”

(Erica Moss) #716

Maybe the factory ran out of rivets that day. :slight_smile:

(Jag Jeff) #717

No, that is a Dumbass Previous Owner move. They used two different size screws and enlarged the holes while doing it. The holes in the body shell will be enlarged too. I would weld the holes in both body and retainer and re-drill them. But then, I am CDO, ( OCD in alphabetical order)
Steve, if you go to SNG or another vendors websites, they will have drawing breakdowns on every part or assembly of your car, plus part numbers.

(David Norton) #718

If you ask them they will send you a paper copy, it is about an inch think, and has diagrams with part numbers for everything on the car. Love that book.

(Bill Bilotti 1966 S1 OTS (in boxes)) #719

I think you need to buy something, ask them to include one in your order free, otherwise you will have to pay separate shipping.

(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #720

I assume you are referring to the excellent XKs Unlimited catalog. I tore the pages from the binding and eliminating all that do not pertain to my car - then 3-hole punched and put them in a binder. It is an great reference and easy to use with all extraneous info deleted.

(David Norton) #721

No, I’ve used the XK version online, but the one I was referring to was SNG.

(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #722

I may have the wrong SNG catalog as the one I have is about ¼" thick and pretty sketchy. The XKs version is sometimes as useful as the Service Manual.

(69 FHC ) #723

The SNG catalog I have covers Series I and II and is 550 pages and 7/8" thick, weighs about 3-1/2 lbs. Somehow I wound up with two of them. My spare is free to whoever wants it.

Edit: It’s been claimed.