1969 Jag S2 FHC, 4.2l Rebuild Story

Not sure it is the cause of your problem, but you may have an extra part there (item 3).

This is what mine had…

I think the nimrod who disassembled this carb just reassembled in random order. I am going to have to approach all restoration on this car as suspect and in need of review. I need an exploded view of the ENTIRE car! On the manual choke assy, I moved the keyed washer (looks like #4) to the “outside” of the choke cam. This allowed the cam to move IN to the carb body that thickness. Seems logical, but I need someone else’s photos for review

Steve,

Another photo that may help you. I presume that you are talking about the rear carb. They are different in this area…

-David

Should I have THIS many left over parts from a XKS.com carb rebuild kit? Just makes me OOZE with confidence!

ALWAYS a good plan of action, with almost any old car.

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Carb rebuild kits often cover differing variations with extra parts. Not to worry.

69 Coupe

I think Ahwahnee is correct

These are high def so you should be able to zoom in pretty well!
I have about 40 more of you need them. Most are from various angles, while still assembled.

here are some photos I took when I disassembled mine.


Mark
Murrieta, Ca.

It does appear they bought a rebuild kit and then only used the parts that they felt were in need of replacing (e.g. needle valves, float bowl gaskets, one jet carrier, etc.).

The PO of mine did more or less the same thing (e.g. did not touch the bypass valve).

I have tagged, bagged, marked complete-ish, and set aside the first carb. I am now looking at the mating trumpets and mounting plate I bought on Ebay for the snorkel and would like photos of someone with dual Stroms. Should the trumpets have that angle up in them? I am a bit suspicious I was sold the wrong trumpets. Hoping not, but if I mount this assy to the air snorkel (that I don’t have yet, but am looking for if anybody knows a source for or has one) wouldn’t that angle in the trumpets be a problem?

Looks like an entirely-correct set up.

Mine also has that upward sweep – possibly to assure that a flooded carb drains toward the manifold and not the intake?

Does that mean that the airbox snorkel tilts upward also? That is the last item on my quest as you can see by the photo above my snorkel plate doesn’t have the little rise at the bottom corner like some do. Does anyone else have a air box that uses this plate and a combination of snorkel that either has or has not got that rise in it. By rise I mean in the lower right-hand corner if you’re looking where the plate with the throttles attach the little ant hill I suppose you could call it. Like it was for clearance of a strut

My dual carb setup (also 1969) doesn’t have the rise on the bottom, it is flat, it also tilts upward. I just swapped over to a triple SU, so I’m familiar with both. I’m uncertain why the SU setup has that feature, in my car it doesn’t seem to be interfering with anything.

DNorton, can you tell me your experience switching to the triple SU’s? Pros/Cons. Would do it again? Happy with them? (estimate your costs to switch?). Did you end up with a snorkel to sell? Would love to see a before and after.
-Thanks

I bought the carbs and manifold set years ago, just got around to putting it in (life got in the way), so my costs would mean nothing now (I think I have about $1600 in the whole thing). As far as to how I like it I haven’t driven it yet (pulled the car back to the firewall and have been cleaning up pretty much everything, retirement is just right for this sort of thing), but I do have it running, and I love the throttle response. The twin ZS were always a bit sloggy on punching it, now it just zings. Mind you I don’t expect much difference in pulling power, the engine always had more torque then the wheels and tires could get to the ground (I have pulled a tire off the rim, made for a heck of a fishtail). I’m not one for taking pictures (I could post one now, but it looks like every other installation), it is just that my memory is such that I don’t really need them, and for those things that just seemed wrong a picture wouldn’t help, and the internet has been wonderful in getting those past owners indiscretions sorted. As far as selling parts I’m not, I’ve been wrapping up all the original parts and putting them in a box just in case someone in the future wants to return it to stock. As far as getting one I have been seeing them come up for sale from time to time, changing the ZS does seem a trend, so I would just keep an eye out for it.

Steve - 69 E’s are a bit poochy for a couple reasons. 1. ZX carbs with butterflappers to re-route & preheat the mixture. 2. Ignition timing curve.
Both of these are emission related mod’s that Jag tried and later changed (some of). If you don’t have to get your car smog tested here’s what I’d do first before jumping into the 3xSU abyss. Keep in mind a 4.2 fun zone is 1800-4500 rpm. Do you really need 3 carbs to rev to 4500? I don’t know either!

  1. Get rid of the “secondary” flappers. 2. get adjustable jets for the ZX from Curto 3. Install a distributor that emulates a Series One mechanical advance curve.
    Do some before and after time to distance tests and see what get. You’ll still have plenty of $ left for SU’s, and you’ll need the distributor anyway. Good luck

I did all three (sort of) and think the results have been very good.

  1. I removed the secondary throttle plates – drove for a couple of years with them propped open, then remove them completely when I happened to have the manifold off.

  2. Made the jets adjustable by substituting jet carriers from TR4 carbs - but the Joe Curto kit is just as effective.

  3. I did not replace the distributor but messed with (good technical term there) the advance springs to get a steeper advance curve. Not very scientific but I did plot the new curve just to satisfy my curiosity:

My considered answer?

NO.

Ive driven both set-ups, and up to 4500-ish, I certainly don’t feel $3000+ more performance.

ZSs get a bum rap…from those who dont understand them.

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But they (triple SU’s) sure look purdy!
I agree, if I had to do it all over again I’d of just kept my OEM setup and do as has been suggested by David and Geo.
Cheers,
LLynn

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I agree with that

and I agree with that !!

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