1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story

(Steve) #784

Note: my wiring harness did not have any spare wires either.

(Steve) #785

Q1. When I am removing items from the car in preparation for blasting, do I remove EVERY item that is bolted/riveted to the car? For example, the popout window rubber seal trim retainer strip?

The “riveted” rear side bolt for the bumper?

And what about all the captivated threaded plates all over the car?

Q2. I’m breaking down the bonnet and and am unclear on the best way to remove the chrome strips. Do I have to loosen wing bolts? The chrome headlight assembly “snaps” on? The backside of the headlight assy has so much undercoating I can’t see any bolts/screws. Are there some under all that crude?

(Andrew Waugh) #786

I take everything that is bolted, and drill out pop rivets.

Put some sacrificial bolts into the captive fastener plates - this will stop them falling down and hiding the threaded holes while in paint, and also means that you won’t have paint inside the threads.

(Geoff Allam) #787

iI would recommend that before blasting you remove all that “crud” from all over the car. Undercoatings and sealants do not blast well. At worst, if you are using sand the blaster may lean into in too hard attempting to remove the soft stuff and warp your panels. If you are using soda or some less aggressive media it will take forever to get the stuff off. Timeis money. A few days spent with a heat gun/solvents etc removing sealers, fillers etc will improve your final result. It is a dirty job but someone has to do it.
Very important: if you choose to go the sand route make absolutely sure that the operator is VERY experieced. A rookie will likely ruin your bodyshell.


Looking at picture 3 - the view down the bottom sill - looks like there is rust almost around the entire circumference of this structural element. If so, what is keeping the car from folding? Am I missing welded-in support elements? Or the roof is enough?

(L.Lynn '68 OTS, '73 2+2) #789

I feel that way about my car occasionally too!

(Steve) #790

…specifically, how do I start in the removal of the headlamp? From the front or back?

(69 FHC ) #791

On an open headlight car:

I use a plastic interior trim removal tool to gently pop off the trim ring, the ring about an inch wide that surrounds the headlamp. Work the tool between the eyebrow and trim ring and pry the trim ring toward the front of the car. It’s held in place by springy metal strips. Once you get the top off of it’s spring it practically falls off of the other springs.

Next remove the chrome ring that retains the headlamp bulb in it’s bucket. Three screws. I use a long screwdriver. I’ve also developed the habit of putting a piece of blue painter’s tape over the drain hole under the headlight. The screws have eyes and seek out that hole.

Then just pull the headlamp bulb forward and disconnect it

(Steve) #792

They must be men…

(69 FHC ) #793

Male threads. :grin:

(Steve) #794

Male jokes! …sorry Erica. What can I say. We’re shallow

(David Norton) #795

If you are pulling the entire headlight out you might as well start by pulling the turn signal, then reach in and disconnect the bullet connectors for the headlight wires (3 wires coming down from behind the headlight), it helps to have small hands. You might have to pull the wires out of a couple of wire clamps, mine were badly rusted, I went to some nice new nylon ones. The chrome headlight ring is on 2 tabs and one spring, the spring is at the top, so pry forward there, I have found I can see the spring as I start to pry, it is bent into a horseshoe shape, open at the back, you can catch the top edge and push it down to release it. Once you take the lamp out (as John noted) the lamp support comes next, reach in, disconnect the coil spring, then work it off the adjustment screws, you don’t need to take the adjustment screws out and lose the adjustment. Then 4 screws around the edge of the bucket and you are done (just installed mine back this week, real fresh in my mind).

(Steve) #796

Drivers side headlamp assy out. There was one spring clip under the chrome ring, but it wouldn’t release from the bottom clips because two of the four screws holding the assy were missing and the assy was too close to the body. Squeezed a small flathead between the chrome ring and loosened the two existing screw to allow the assy to move away from the body of the car. (No comments about the red thumbnail that keeps getting into the frame)

(Steve) #797

Simply for reference on my rebuild, are the gaps to big on this car?

(Larry velk) #798

This shows how difficult it can be to assemble an E-Type after major work. I recall seeing photos from the Texas restoration guys where they add lead to the edge of brand new sills as the profile of many reproductions isn’t crisp enough (I think chuck in Maryland addressed this with his parts). Sometimes it is a height error or curve profile oddity that makes a gap look bad. Point is, it isn’t easy to do and, once again, favors cars which were in one piece to start with. And yes, I’d say the gaps aren’t too great on this car, but it isn’t polite to criticize as long as a guy does his best and doesn’t charge for his work (like when you do things yourself). Some old tubs are so far off it’s just a miracle that they are back on the road.

(Paul Wigton) #799

Overall, not terribly consistent, and the bonnet landing strip gap is a bit wide.

(Steve) #800

I’m the only rate I can afford!

(Erica Moss) #801

The driver door isn’t centered, way too gappy in the front and looks like it’s almost contacting in the rear. The bonnet is too far forward and needs at least one shim removed.

They need to redo that driving video and try and get out of second gear if they expect anyone to bid on that.

(Nick Saltarelli) #802

The rear hatch gap looks ok. The bonnet gaps can be improved with some finicky shimming though I think the bonnet/bulkhead/sill fit may not be optimal. The door gaps raise a concern. The gap at the front of the door is the most critical of all

because when the door is opened the leading edge closes in toward the edge of the A post such that it just clears. If the gap is too narrow the edges will foul and damage the paint. If it’s too wide, as this car’s is, it could mean that there’s body filler either on the door’s front edge or in the edge of the A post and the only way for the door to clear is to have it set back, which makes the shut edge gap too narrow. If that’s the case it’s not fixable.

Optimum panel gaps pre-paint should be about 3.5-4.0 mm, in my estimation.

Edit. Still, not a bad looking car.

(Steve) #803

I’m writing up a contract for my bodywork and need to know what is reasonable and expected. I’m paying pretty good money so I want better results than I would do.