1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story


(69 FHC ) #804

Then you want at least pretty good results.

I’m still not happy with my doors but I think they are now about as god as it gets. The front and rear gaps are consistent at slightly under 3mm. The bottom gap is about twice that; too much but unfixable without messing with painted surfaces.

On the car in the picture I’d be curious to see the side bonnet-scuttle gap on the right side. It could be that the bonnet is off center, i.e. the front is too far to the right. Easy to fix as the mounting of the hinge to bonnet allows for that to be adjusted.


(Nick Saltarelli) #805

Bodywork is optimising gaps and elevations within and between panels, Steve. Gaps obvious. Elevations involve the crowns of individual panels and how they fit together and flow unbroken from one end of the car to the other - eg. the “break line” highlighted here

.

And to achieve that the crown of the door in the horizontal plane needs to be almost flat, almost a straight line that flows uninterrupted into the bonnet and rear wings. I have noted several Es where there was an excessive horizontal door crown that was addressed by applying filler - either bondo or body solder - to the hinge and shut edges, which makes them appear overly thick. That situation is almost always accompanied by excessive front door gaps, for reasons cited above


(Les Halls 1968 S1.5 2+2 Atlanta) #806

I failed to do enough of the aforementioned, not wanting to piss off the owner, and the rebuild/resto of my car has suffered as a result…my suggestion to you is…don’t worry too much about pissing off the owner, just make sure your intentions and requirements are clearly laid out before the work starts, and then monitor OFTEN!


(Paul Wigton) #807

Based my personal examination of your car, a ballpark guesstimate to fix, prime, fettle, and paint would be in the $18,000 to $25,000 range.


(1967 FHC) #808

Steve,
Next time you are in Austin, let me know if you want to see what my car looks like after the body work and paint done this summer.

–Drew


(JAMES FAIRMAN) #809

That car looks alot like mine!


(Steve) #810

Ok, now I like the gaps on your car.

On the left hand door, is that the rubber seal poking out the top in front of the sideview mirror?


(Nick Saltarelli) #811

It does a bit … yours is much nicer.


(JAMES FAIRMAN) #812

Thanks Nick.

Had here out the day before yesterday, going like a dream.


(JAMES FAIRMAN) #813

Yes it is Steve,

It is the original seal. It has lost its shape a bit and it has squished out!

Although I have changed every nut and bolt mechanically, the body has never been apart or been welded.

Must get around to waxing her soon.!


(Steve) #814

She is a beauty and an exact duplicate of mine except where the driver sits! :crazy_face:

Is yours called “Silver Gray”? My Jaguar Heritage Certificate calls mine silver gray but I haven’t found a color spec for it and now that I have exposed some of the older paint behind the door panels etc. I can see that the current paint job is a bit darker. I am considering when I repainted going back to the lighter original color but maybe adding a little bit of depth to it. Maybe pearlize it. I haven’t been able to define whether silver gray and opalescent silver gray are the same.


(JAMES FAIRMAN) #815

Thanks Steve,

My car came from the West Coast of the USA, was manufactured in 1969 and re-imported to the UK in 2014. It belonged to a doctor called David Tinker for many years when it was in the USA and has done 73,000 miles.

I was determined to buy one that didn’t need floors and rockers. I was lucky-mine is solid.

It was up and together when I got it but I replaced every moving part and consumable and sooped up the motor somewhat. Although it came with triple SUs, I have had it on throttle bodies for a couple of years now and it flies down the road. It has a 2.88 rear. The 3.51 diff was a bit fussy to say the least with a 4 speed box at 90 mph. I also converted it to RHD.

The color is Jaguar Opalescent Silver Grey for which there are 2 shades, light and dark. Mine is the light shade.

My local car paint guys matched the color perfectly in an Aerosol for touching up. Confusingly the Jaguar color is the same color an Aston Martin color -Silver Birch - Code 44938.

It is a 2 part system with base coat and lacquer. I have just never put any lacquer on, so my car has a somewhat worn “vinyl” appearance. It has been like that for a few years now.

Here I am overtaking an ambulance!

James


(Steve) #816

How do you remove this piece? There’s so much horse hair from the padding I can’t tell if there is screws under there or rivets or…


(Erica Moss) #817

Got a magnet? You might stumble upon the fasteners.


(Geoff Allam) #818

Give that horsehair a little soak with thinner. With luck It should wipe right off so that you can see what you are doing. No free flame in the area.


(JAMES FAIRMAN) #819

I think you will find that piece is part of the tub!


(Steve) #820

It was upholstered so I made an assumption. So they just wrap the vinyl around it.


(Steve) #821

Removed the rear hinges, finished removing the sound deadening and upholstery on the back behind the seats. Oh and I’ve already used almost 500 marking tags out of 1000 I was thinking it would be too many but apparently not!


(1967 FHC) #822

Note the location of those boot hinge spacers. My hatch was out of alignment until my guy worked on it and I never even knew there were spacers there. Someone had removed all of the spacers, probably when the previous respray was done many years back.

–Drew


(Steve) #823

My inclination is to drill out the rivets and remove the seal retainers around the quarter windows before stripping.

All in agreement?
All opposed?