I videod the inside with my boroscope and YouTube wouldn’t allow me to upload it. I’ll figure it out and send the link. They didn’t look bad on the inside.
Perhaps I’ll use a combination of methods to clean and reshoot for comparison.
@WiggleyPoo need to save money for my coffee!
I’m unclear how that all came out. Some of those flakes appear to be a cm wide. My frames had fairly small holes on either end. I can’t remember how big, 1/4" maybe? I got nowhere near that amount out of my driver’s frame and it is now at the bottom of the Austin landfill.
Steve you have to remember how much weight and force those frames are subject to and the fact that your body will be just a couple feet behind them traveling at 75 MPH. That would terrify me.
All this said, is there a source to have my frames professionally inspected?
Nothing to be terrified about: the lion’s share of suspension loads are not taken by the subframes: they hold up the snoot and the engine, and absorb the near-instantaneous, but not constant damper loads.
Unless a number of tubes are clean broken—and that could occur at a high rate of speed/load, on severely-compromised frames, but I have never heard of it happening—the frames will not fail catastrophically.
That said, the ultra-thin 531 doesn’t give much leeway for rust “enlightenment,” so, sadly, I think @Stevieboy is gonna have to give up frou-frou hipster coffee for a set of Uryk’s best.
If nothing else, when Steve’s kids’ sell it for 76 gazillion dollars, in 2095, the uprated frames will help them get a few gazillion more!
How much are a set of Uryk’s best these days? Around $5K?
This is actually one of those diy jobs. The best approach is to media blast them clean which will expose any pinholes, which would mean they’re toast. It will also expose any cracks in the brazed fillets, which also means they’re toast. If no pinholes or cracks the next step is to gingerly sound the tubes with a hammer for soft spots. Toast again.
What is this toast of which you speak?
It is what you stop work for if you run out of beer.
An expression, evidently either Canadian or Anglo, for “done”.
In BC they say “hooped” in place of “toast”.
Last I checked, north of $7000.
Which is double what I paid six years back, just before E values began to spike. Uryk’s well deserved reputation for providing a stellar product was already well established and I expect he became inundated with orders from restorers and the supply/demand/price dynamic took over.
Geez. Engine frames used to cost around $1K per side about 5 years back. I replaced one on my car in 2015 as it had a large dent in it. The prices had started to rise and I was lucky to find a new Uryk frame at a parts reseller.
Aha. SNG has the side frames for $1200 per and the picture frame for $315. Guess these are Robeys.
I’d certainly go for the SNG offerings, if indeed they fit.
Classic Jaguar was offering sets made from, IIRC, chrome moly tubing - not Reynolds. I wonder if they still are.
Drew
Ohhhh – you need to sit down.
At today’s exchange rate of 1.31 at works out to $9,170 for a full set for a Series III
The exchange rate is current; the cost (£7,000) may be out of date – – – so more
Craig
Sheesh! That price would mean the Robey frames are now a steal.
Classic Jaguar has a set on ebay as we speak. NAYYY
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sofindtype=0&_byseller=1&_nkw=&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=15&_stpos=78736&_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&_salic=1&_fss=1&_fsradio=%26LH_SpecificSeller%3D1&_saslop=1&_sasl=jaguarjunk&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_fosrp=1
When test fitting my old stock Robey frames (bought for 750 dollars total 25 years ago) with one wrong length leg on each side one of the recommendations was to dump them and go with etype fabs frames. Checking the price convinced me to do a sheet metal adjustment. I think there might be an opening for an enterprising person to break into the market with a sensibly priced frame that fits.
…placed my bid, just in case!
Today’s tasks. Looking for a simply project to appear like I’m making progress…
I want to refinish my air filter canister. I need specifics on the best way to accomplish. Is it hammertone silver or grey? and should match my air delta (purchased on ebay). Does anyone have a product recommendation? I found an image in the “XKE data” cd I purchased that appears like the 3 clamp-downs are chrome plated? How do I access the inside of the base under the interior subbase to paint it? I can wing all of these things, but I prefer to “consult the oracles”
I feel like my antenna hole is perhaps dealer punched? The measurements are such that the hole through the lower skin would end up landing the antenna retracted between the door and jam. I feel like it should be further forward towards the front cowel so that the mast retracts inside the cowel? Measurements of my hole attached. Anybody have conflicting measurements they wish to share?
![IMG_8298|375x500] (upload://wNBMGCJbsNEtpUgTpr7X2yUZqhH.jpeg)Update: cleaned all parts and the underside of the air filter retainer is some sort of shiny plating and none of the canister exterior appears “hammertoned” unless it was a very mild effect back in the day.
