1971 jaguar xj6 fuel tank replacement

Hello familia.
Wondering if anybody has a good way to pull the tanks out of a 71 jag xj6? I can not separate the tank from the cap part. Any advise will be greatly appreciated
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Remove the four screws and it just lifts out. There is a thin o ring seal that can get stuck. Might try a slide hammer.

Once the bottom valence is out and all bolts removed (make sure of this) the tank should be loose and jiggling it may free up the filler neck. If you are scrapping the tank, cut a big section out and belt it downwards with a hammer. Yes, these filler necks can be very tight.

Ok, I’ll try that.

I did some jiggling and rotating of the neckt and it came loose. I first had a leak in the right and a year later in the left tank and I soldered the holes close and did a tank coating. Why do you have to remove your tank?

It doesn’t just come out and I think it’s easier to pull down on the tank instead of up on the neck. As john says wiggle it a lot and it’ll come free eventually. The cap hinge is delicate, if you resort to force drift its pin out first.

I have to replace them due to rust in the tanks. It is so bad that it ruined both fuel pumps and carbs

i have 2 series 1 tanks i’d sell if you need. i went to fuel injection and S3 tanks

Jay, I’m considering the switch to FI on my S1. Were the S3 tanks a direct bolt in replacement?

Jeff H

yes. only drawback is access to the sending units. S1 is accessed from the wheel well, the S3 are from the back side.

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Jay thanks for the info!!!
Question: what did you have to do to get the fuel gauge to work with the S3 tank?

You use the s3 gauge but it is probably not accessible through the rear light, the aperture is probably too small. So a gauge failure or a leak is just a lot more work.

What do you think I should do in order to get the S3 fuel tank to work with the S1 fuel gauge?

I’m not so sure, I think it could work.
Are the S1 light openings really that smaller?
IIRC, the sender is at the upper part of the opening (were the lights are narrow) and being quite thin, there is some room for manipulation.

I’d say you first need a S3 tank unit sender, Montoya - then see if it is accessible when removing the rear light cluster, ref David’s comment?

Jaguar logic implies that the resistance in the S1 and S3 gauges and tank sender units are identical, given the tanks’ volume and shape are? You’ll need some rerouting (and lengthening?) of the wires…

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

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I don’t know but it might as well be possible. Based on how narrow it is compared to S3 it seems a little small for access but more for getting the bayonet loose than for getting the actual sender out?
Then again the senders don’t fail often and if they do the car will still drive so that’s not a real problem.

i put my S1 fuel level sending units in the S3 tanks with new gaskets. mounting holes are the same size, and the S3 has the extended wiring affixed to the tank to plug into the rear sender location and the front of tank to plug in to body harness that feeds the fuel gauge.
i had to bend them a bit to get full travel.
IIRC, someone mentioned swapping sending units left to right. i can’t seem to find that post.

That info is good! It would make my life easier if the original gauge from the 71’ works with the S3 fuel tanks.