1971 XKE S2 - Clutch Bleeding

Thanks Tom!

Before I remove the MC, I will pressure bleed from the bottom.
More to come…

I assume ‚no pressure‘ means no pedal pressure? Check if the piston in the SC moves with the pedal (put in a screwdriver). If it moves, check pushrod length and free play. Mine has a 3.75“ SC and a 4“ pushrod set to 1/16“ free play.

I pressure bled from the bottom today. At 15 pounds, no fluid entered into the clutch fluid reservoir.

I removed the clutch master. The pin moves out very easily. When I push the pin back it, it hits a brick wall and does nothing.

Any suggestions on how to bench test the MC?

Thanks, Bob

I think you just did! I believe that you should be able to put your finger over the outlet and feel pressure when you push the pin in and vaccuum when you let it release.

Michael, I actually did that, put 2 fingers over the MC inlets. Moving the pin, I felt no pressure.

So, looks like a defective MC…
Thanks, Bob

Try one of the resleevers like white post in VA or I think Apple hydraulics on the West Coast. They will resleeve it and then you never (cross fingers) have to touch it again. I’ve had all my hydraulics done by WP and was very pleased. Actually sent them a brand new slave to be bored and sleeved just to be consistent and on the safe side.

Was the issue resolved Bob? I am having trouble bleeding my all new system (which includes the easi bleed system). The rod moves but there is no real pressure in the system and the lever does not move enough to separate the clutch plates. It most definitely feels like a spongy pedal so I would like to know what happened and did you solve it?

I believe I ended up buying another new MC and that bled w/o issues.

I just discovered this thread while searching for a solution to the same problem. I have a '64 3.8 E-type. The slave cylinder is new and Apple Hydraulics rebuilt the master cylinder. I get “some” resistance when I press the clutch pedal, but it’s not enough to release the clutch. If I pump the pedal 3 or 4 times, it releases just fine. If I then wait about 20 seconds and press the pedal, I only get partial release again. I’ve bled more than a quart through the system without any improvement. I then used a vacuum pump to suck it out at the bleed screw. This didn’t help either. I don’t understand how the “bottom -up” approach would work. Wouldn’t the seal in the m/c prevent fluid (and air) from going to the reservoir?


When your foot is off the pedal, the seal I assume you are referring to is open. It only closes when the pedal is pushed. Simply try it.
As I assume you have read, people have come up with many ways to bleed the clutch system. Two simple methods that seem to work well are 1.gravity. Just open the bottom bleeder and let it drip a while. I have not used it, but many say it works well. 2, bottom up. It forces the air out the top. I do mine this way. I use a small pump style oil pump can. Many use a syringe.
And lots of other fancier methods with all types of pumps, tubes, etc. if it works great.

I’ll find a pump and give it a try. Thanks for your help.

worked for me too****

1 Like

Bought a pump and connected it to the bleed screw. Question: How does one keep the fluid from leaking past the threads of the bleed screw while it’s loosened and you’re pumping the fluid in?

Not that much should leak. I never had an issue


Same answer as Tom gave. it wasn’t a problem for me.

I’ve been known to put a little Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder screw. You don’t need to remove it when you’re done.