According to the ROM 76.22.15, all is says is to remove the nuts, bolts and washers !!! the parts manual shows a nut that uses a stud on the side of the body, and the rear is a nut on a stud from the back bumper BD38837. When i get under it and look upwards I see nothing like that.Indeed there is no visible accessible nut . Please shed a little light on this!!
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John,
There should be cutouts in the lower edge of the bumpers where the nuts can be accessed. The smaller bolts at the wheel well ends may be (I’m not sure on SII) removed from inside the wheel well area. If you don’t see these openings under the bumpers, then something is no longer stock for your model. The Series 1 bumpers were solid underneath and the bolts were inserted from inside the bodywork. If someone changed yours to Series 1 bumpers then to remove them will require access to the interior of the rear bodywork including removing the fuel tank I believe.
Here is a link to Joel Hutchins’ photos of his '70,
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1382714697&n4=
Hi John, I think you may have presumed that XKE S1 and 2 are the same as the S3…I don’t think so !?
Hello John,
Actually, they (S2 and S3) are. The attachment method is the same throughout. The following two pictures are of the LH Side Nut, and LH Rear Bolt location. This is a 1974 US delivered car with the large rear Rubber Over-riders. Even in this configuration, the attachment of the Bumper Bar itself is the same. In this case the Bumper Bar can be removed in the same way as the earlier S3 cars, or those delivered to Countries where the European Style Chromed Steel Over-riders were supplied, leaving the Rubber Over-rider in place.
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The side securing nut screws onto a Threaded Stud that is held in place via a pop riveted plate on the inside of the lower quarter panel. See the picture following:
The rear securing bolt is located directly above the end of the taillight closest to the centre of the car. See the following picture:
There are only two nuts (one each side) and two bolts (one each above the inner end of each Taillight) in total holding the Rear Bumper Bar to the body of the car.
Regards,
Bill
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I have located my SII rear bumper LHS and I have shown where the S2 fastens to the car, and also where the S3 fastens to the car. Basically the rear mount point is the same 2vs3, but the S3 has only one side mount with a bolt that seems to come from inside the car, but is not accessible as far as I can see.Hopefully the pic will be with this post!!?
I now enclose 2 pics showing that a bolt has been inserted in a hole, in the exterior panel of the rear side of the body.This then protrudes from the inside, through the outer wall panel of the car, then through a rubber washer ( say 3/8th inch thick ), then through the bumper bracket and then held in place by a threaded bracket with a ledge on it to prevent it turning. Clearly the latter is designed NOT to turn, so the whole system must be tightened with a wrench from the inside.The head of the bolt is not visible through the inside hatch, but the hex head can be felt with the finger tips. A mechanic with half size hands is now needed !!! This is certainly not the method of mounting that most folks know about. . It seems likely that the rear bumpers were put on before the interior of the car was fitted. I wonder if anyone else has run into this situation !?
Is it possible that that fitting was threaded onto the bolt, then hammered over to prevent turning?
I really have no idea, just wondering ‘How’d they do that?’.
Well, I suppose that’s possible !! However, I am quite certain that this is not a stud, but a bolt. So in order to turn this outside fitting, the bolt head would have to held d by a wrench ! At one point I planned to cut off the lip, and turn the outside fitting to remove it.But I have not found a way to get a wrench on the bolt head that have felt, but not seen.
Possible, but that seems like a really crazy way to do it when a Nylock would do just a s well.
Rather than a stud it could be a bolt with the head tack welded to the body on the inside.
You could bend that tab on that nut just enough to allow some movement and try to turn the nut with a crescent wrench and observe if the bolt turns with the nut. First soak it with your penetrating oil of choice.
Well I have removed the bolt from the RHS.While casting a very caustic eye over the rearR corner of the car, I realized that the rear floor comes out because the spare wheel is underneath. Once it was removed the bolt head was easily accessible.Der!!! However, the left side access to the bolt head has the tank snugged up to that side of the car body , thus blocking the way. However, the L side is sufficient for current needs!! Thanks to those who mused on this topic!!!
It looks very much to me like the bumper was installed before the tank was installed, same a the process of removing and installing the LH rear bumper on my '68 2+2. Big PITB having to do it but my bet is that this all comes apart from the inside out.