1977 XJ6 door lock actuator resistance value?

Hello all,

 I am working on correcting what appears to be many of the typical electrical problems on a 1977 XJ6 Coupe'. I am currently working on the door locks. A bit of lube cured the passenger's side, but I continue to struggle with the driver's side. I can lock/unlock both doors with a key, or the interior manual lever. However, the electric lock on the driver's side refuses to full lock or unlock. No amount of adjustment seems to cure it. I get either a fully locked door, or a fully unlocked door, but not both. 
Naturally I began looking to see if the mechanisms are worn. Everything but the lock cylinder looks to be in good order. Right down to the plastic clips that guide the rods up to the interior handle. Everything except the lock cylinder and it's lever. I know they are are kind of floppy anyway, bit this seems excessive, and the little pin was bent. Not even this corrected the door lock. 
I am down to the actuator not having enough travel... It sure *looks* like it has a bunch of travel. It also seems to make a good solid "clunk" in either direction. Right and left are not interchangeable, so that is out. It is only a two door, so that is out. So I measured the resistance of the right and left actuator. The Driver's side is just a little lower at just under 2 ohms. The passenger's is just over 2 ohms. 
Needless to say, I am at an impasse! I'm running out of ideas. Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Thanks in advance,
Paul

In the driver’s door, the original 4-door solenoid set-up has a control unit, not a solenoid/actuator, Paul - driver’s door was not electrically operated.

The control unit responds to key or manual lever movement by sending a short signal (capacitor discharge) to either a ‘lock’ or an ‘unlock’ relay which then briefly powers the solenoid(s) in the appropriate direction…

Don’t know specifically about the 2-doors, but to me your system seems to work as intended…?

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)