The engine cranks but there is no spark.I can hear fuel pump when gear is in R or D and start selected.There is heaps of fuel coming out of fuel filter in boot when I disconnect the outlet hose.
This all started when a water hose let go between pump and a pipe under inlet manifold.
The disi was wet and its now dry.I think it may be the ign amp which I opened up last night and physically it looks OK.I have ordered a GM ignition module that goes in the amp hoping this will fix it.
Is there anyting else I should be looking at while I am waiting for the new part.
Thanks
I have been troubleshooting this problem today and the only thing I found was there is spark coming from hi tension lead out of coil but its not getting to spark plugs.I checked the air gap in disi and replaced all the ignition leads(spark plugs were changed recently).the disi cap appears OK and I cleaned the contacts.Coil checks out OK and I have correct resistance coming out of disi to ignition amplifier.Does this sound like its the ignition amplifier at fault.
Thanks
this all started after the distributor took a bath in coolant, right? How much of a bath? was the inside of the distributor wet?
Iām not being a smart ass, Iām sincere in my questions so I can provide a valuable response. The question about the coolant inside the distributor is a valid one, because coolant never dries it leaves a residue that does conduct electricity. the pick up would need to be removed cleaned with an electrical contact cleaner as well as the base plate where the pick up mounts.
Same goes for the inside of the ignition amplifier - though Iād be surprised if any fluid got inside that metal boxā¦ but who knows. Iām assuming the rotor is installed and spins around. Iām going to assume the carbon contact on the inside of the distributor is till intact.
Have you check the condition of the wires - not the HT leads, but the wires from the coil to the amplifier and to the distributor? I know on my XJās the wires were pretty crusty. Just a thought, if youāre are crusty too, and got a good dose of coolant itās very possible that the leads going to the ignition amplifier are shorting.
check out my videos on ignition
How to put the spark back in your Jag and
XK6 Series III XJ Ignition tune up
In one of them, I had a faulty igintion module (the GM) replacement. I did how ever step up to a MSD unit. Itās all in one of the two videos.
I did a post several years back diagnosing the ignition system. In the mean time I will see if I can find it.
hope this helps.
Iām confused. Didnāt you just say there is spark coming from the high tension lead?
**
As Mark says, Felix; coolant inside the dist, or indeed on any electric pars, may be the problem. Even careful cleaning may leave residue shorting thingsā¦
That the coil center lead sparks to ground while cranking, but not at the plugs implies that the distributor aināt distributing. Ie, high tension current goes to ground instead of, via the rotor, to the plugs. Have you wiped the inside and outside of the dist lid perfectly dry - a spray with silicon may help. The rotor may have failed or may be āwetā with coolant, remove and change/dry. And āwetā shorting may have done some damageā¦somewhere
Since you have coil center lead spark the ign amp should be OK. Do the injectors click while cranking - both spark and fuel is required for starting.
To test ign amp, connect a test lamp between coil ā-ā and ground and turn ign āonā - the lamp should be fully lit. Crank the engine - the lamps should dim and flicker, implying the amp is workingā¦
To keep a continuous eye on actual ignition; connect a spare spark plug, triple gapped, to any plug lead. It will not prevent starting, but will show if you have spark every time tou crankā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
1 Like
Hi Mark,I had watched your you tube videos a couple of days ago,they were great.
There was hardly any coolant in the disi and amp box.The rotor does spin and and the carbon contact is OK.The wires to disi and amp are in great condition not like yours were.
Hi Kirbert,If I put my timing light on the coil HT lead and the timing light fires,I also removed the disi end of this HT lead and when cranking you can see spark jumping across to engine.The spark is not getting to the plugs.Maybe I need to get another disi.
Hi Frank,
I already tested ign amp with a test light and that worked OK.The disi cap and inside disi is dry.
How do you check if injectors are clicking while cranking as when cranking its too noisy.
This shouldnāt be difficult to figure out. The spark is coming out of the coil but itās not making it through the distributor to the plugs. Thereās only a couple of places it could be going. Cap and rotor cover 90% of the possibilities. Iād be looking for a place where that spark is shorting to ground.
1 Like
Iām operating on the assumption that the car ran just fine prior to the ignition system getting a coolant bath. right?
The thing is if youāre getting spark out of the coil, then that means the low tension side of the circuit is working, meaning there is voltage getting to the coil, and the ignition amplifier. The stator and the pick up (module) inside distributor is nothing more than a magnetic switch that opens the low tension circuit side - forcing the voltage out through the top of the coil to the plug HT leads; and it would appear that it is all working.
- The rotor is installed, and the center pole where it touches the carbon bit on the dist cap is shiny clean. no coolant residue, right? The rotor does turn when you crank the engine over, right?
- The HT leads are firmly placed on the cap. this can be tested by having the dist cap off, then using an ohm meter. one lead on the end of the plug wire, the other on the corresponding pole inside the distributor. This will kinda narrow down the list of possible suspectsā¦
If youāve got a decent spark from the coil roughly 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch gab between the ground (source) and the HT Lead off the coil; then Iām right there with @Kirbert itās kinda looking like the cap and rotor or the distributor isnāt spinning the rotor. There really isnāt much left.
**
With difficulty, Felixā¦
It really is a two person job, unless you have a remote starter. A long screwdriver held against the injector and the ear is a usual substitute for a proper stethoscope.
As for the spark jumping. In the dark; crank the engine while observing from āwhereā to āwhereā the spark is jumping. The spark seeks the least resistance to ground (actually, the other way) - and a breach of plug/coil lead insulation leaves burn marks. However if the outside of the leads are conductive, ie wet/dirty, high tension will go along outside the leads - and easily short to ground. Just look at the way the leads are connected to the coil and dist to see howā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
NO!!! The distributor and coil are producing spark. leave them be.
But, the rotor is not connecting the center post of the cap to the posts for the cylinders. Moisture in the towers can do that. Remove each of the six and wipe dry or use a desicant. the original purpose of WD 40.
Or, use your heat gum. gently, but hot. Donāt have one? Miladies hair dryer. Promise her, it will not stink like old oil
Carl
How to listen for the injectors, sadly Frank is right itās hard to hear them. Frank gave me the giggles. Usually Frank is all business. no sarcasm or funny stuff.
Not knowing what part of the globe you reside on, but the local cheap tool store - in the USA is Harbor Freight, Canada, I think itās Princess Auto, has these things called NOIDS. theyāre little lights you plug into the back of the injector wiring clip. these thingies light up when a signal is sent to shoot their wad. The HF kit comes with a variety of sizes. I found one in the kit that worked on the XJ-S injector.
A word of caution.
Be gentle when handling the injector(s) or anything injector related unless yours have been reworked. Keep in mind this car is as old. as is the fuel rail and other related bits. The fuel system is under about 36psi, the rubber hoses are probably a bit stiff. Same goes for the injector seal into the inlet manifold. and the wiring to the injectors.
Reefān on the any part of the injector rail, hoses, or injectors may cause a petrol leak. Be mindful and look on the inlet to make sure there isnāt any fuel residue. If you smell fuel. Stop and find it.
This isnāt why the car isnāt running, itās a word of caution with respect to the Kaboom factor. Especially if youāre waiving a HT Lead around looking for a spark. Engine fires on Jagās are a very real thing. though, to your defense - running Jagsā¦
Anyway, Please be careful. Donāt blow yourself up. .
I replaced the HEI module and capacitor in the ignition amp and the ignition leads.
I am now getting a weak spark from the leads with the spark plug gap about 1/4 inch.
I also removed the fuel hose at the regulator and there is heaps of fuel coming out when cranking.
I am leaning towards the disi at being at fault even though I have checked everything possible.
Take the spark plugs out and clean and dry them
With all the cranking youāve been doing they are probably damp and it may now be as simple as thatā¦ hopefully
Oh, Iām so sorry I wasnāt clear. When I referred to the 1/4inch āgapā, I was referring to the HT lead from the coil to grounding surface such as the head or the chassis ā it was part of the testing. The spark plug gap should be .035 inches.
I finally got the engine running,I pulled all the NGK spark plugs out which I replaced a few weeks ago and they were sooty.Its probably because the car was at a body repair shop for 2 weeks and they were just starting it for a short time to move the car around and it was running rich,this fouled 3 of the plugs badly causing them not to fire.New plugs fitted and car runs great.One good thing is that I am learnig how this car works.Thanks everyone for your input.By the way this is one of the best forums around,lots of knowledge here.Regards Felix
1 Like
wow, a quarter inch!!! That is huge.
I know right?! Youād think. But a healthy ignition system will have no problem jumping a Ā¼ gap. Beside I got that straight out of the Good Book of Green.
Gentleman ā¦
Checking the recommended spark plug gaps for an 82 XJ-6 and they are all around .025 - .035". So a 1/4" gap would be .25" or ten times too much. I believe someone is leaving out a zero 