Hi Fellow Jag lovers,
so I removed my radiator, I did have help to lift it out , after finding the oil cooler attachments . What a bitch ! Anyhow it is out .
Reading the Kirk Palm Bible , who suggest to go single - pass system, which might be a challenge for me.? is it had to do ? Looking at same setup radiator made out of aircraft aluminum, 64 mm - 70 mm or , crossflow ? , 3 or 4 row ?, plan is do the upgrade with new foam , coolant filters , heater hose filter or flushing Tee, anything else ? My first time working on this sophisticated cooling system , LOL
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Hi-
I am one of those who thinks that single-pass is not strictly necessary / worth the trouble. I plan to replace stock radiator with one of these in the next year or so:
If you want a single pass and are willing to do the plumbing, I think Ron Davis Racing makes one. We have a Ron Davis in the e-type and it’s been great.
Regards
Bob
My .02 is to have the original rodded out or recored (if you can find a real radiator shop). Cheaper, and will fit without issues; after all, how many miles did the original last?
I second that. I did some research, the Wizard Cooling Double Pass Aluminum seems like an easy fit, and will be nice all aluminum. I’m buying one when im ready.
Hi, I put a Wizard in my "88, and it has been doing a great job, almost like magic.
I am too with Robert on that one.
Re-core the old one with a good quality core.
Easy, inexpensive, adequate cooling and no fitting issues.
Sounds like two good options. Regarding re-core, just make sure you find a really good place, and make sure they deal with the oil and ATF cooling passages.
I didn’t go for the single pass because I don’t think it’s really necessary, but mainly because I did NOT like the idea of having to buy or fabricate some Y tubing for both A and B bank coolant returns to end up at the same spot.
Got mine re-cored about three years ago - got it converted to a single pass as part of that process.
I did the Wizard Cooling aluminum about 5 years ago. Top quality and direct fit. Dropped right in on my 1995 V12.
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Not so fast!
That hasn’t been true for a loooong while, at least not in my neckadda: I just had an estimate from my long-term rad shop (over 50 years) for the radiator in my RV: rodding/boiling was $375, and recoring was over $850.
The “traditional” rads like the XJS came with (as did pretty much every other car) used a 2 to 4 row core with tanks soldered on. The cores were “standard” in that you could usually find one with the dimensions you needed (assuming you wanted to re-core) and have your shop solder your tanks on.
I imagine that since most rads now seem to be plastic tanks crimped on to aluminum cores that 1) there are fewer and fewer “traditional” cores around and 2) fewer and fewer shops that know how to work on them. Just supposing. Maybe I’m wrong.
I also went with a Wizard Rad.,duel elect fans, 180 stats, SS water rails, Lutz 1, water filters,. I went nuts on the cooling because of Florida 90’s & traffic.
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I’ll 10th the Wizard Rad, perfect fit easy as can be.
I too looked into re-core and it was prohibitively expensive (at least in my neck of the woods). Still have the old rad in a box in my basement, just seemed wrong to toss it.
Also did dual electric with wizard cooling brackets for the fans. Mostly because my aux fan was toast and all the rubber flaps were going to need creative replacement as well.
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I am surprised it exists at all. Our local shop was run out of town by the council a decade ago…
Way before that a shop near my son’s shop did the radiator for my Hot Rod. Cut down and recored a 37 vintage Ford radiator And new top spigots/ $450. Beautiful job.
Yea: Scotty has been there since he was a kid (13 or so, in the late 70s) when his Dad ran it, and my Dad began doing business with the shop in the early 50s.
I think his days are numbered.
Are you guys telling us that the Wizard aluminum rad was cheaper than a recore?
…by at least $300, wrt having Harvey’s recored.
Well, that would make for an easy decision…
$739 is cheaper than a recore ???
Last I checked, the Wizard radiator for V12 with A/T was $769 plus $70 shipping + tax…so you’re looking at around $900.
So it’s definitely more than a recore? But for what I would guess a couple extra $100, I welcome all aluminum.