The engine cut out while driving. Got it home and tested the Crank Position sender by cranking and looking for 200 rpm but there was zero rpm. Bought a new one, checked the resistance and installed on the car. Doing the crank test showed zero rpm.
I’ve checked all the relays and fuses and they are good. I checked the wiring from the connector to the ECM and there was continuity.
Can some one tell me what other checks I can make, for instance when should there be voltage at the CPS connector. I have checked both wires to ground with the ignition on and there was zero voltage. May be it has to be cranking to check for voltage?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would look next for corroded pins on the ecu connector in the right side kickpanel.
I don’t see any ref.to the ecu in the right hand healboard. I’ll try to attach a picture of the healboard contents on my car. Please advise further.
Healboard RH Side.pdf (480.1 KB)
What i am calling the kickpanel is not the heelboard, but rather the triangular panel on the RH FRONT side near the passenger’s feet in the US, or the driver’s feet in the mother country.
There is a common (serious) problem with water getting into that space and causing corrosion on one or both of the ecu connectors.
It seems to affect cars in the US most as they nearly all have sunroofs and the drains block causing water to run down the A pillar onto the ECU which is in the footwell on the RH Front side viewed from the rear.
I have looked into that problem previously and had to jump around the corroded pins. I went back and checked as you suggested and found a poor connection, which seems to have cured the no start problem. TThe tach. showed 200 rpm when cranking and it started on the second crank. So, not an immediate start but pretty good. Now I’ve got to prove to my wife that it won’t stop again while she is driving!
Thanks for the help.