When shopping for this part must it be 97 or will other years work?
Ian it looks like NOT!
See:
Do you ACTUALLY need the PUMP or the control module??? They do separate.
I have never seen a pump motor/valve block assy fail but I guess it happens.
There are two different modules/blocks so you need to get the correct one.
5 pipe (6 valves) Without Traction Control
6 pipe (9 valves) WITH Traction Control
More info Please!!!
bob
Thanks Bob. The wires to the pump are fried so rather than getting into board repair and new pump I thought maybe buy a complete new unit or good used. Plenty available but mostly for 98 and up. Few specify for 97 convertible. I have read they may be reprogrammed to model specs. This is my first Jag and first encounter with any ABS and Stability Control systems. Ian
The MODULE is specific to the 1997 MY (To VIN (018107)).
The valve block/pump motor assy can likely be ANY compatible unit.
You still do not say if you have the 5 pipe or 6 pipe unit.
The ONLY modules listed for the 1997 XK are either JLM20129 (5 pipe) or JLM20130 (6 pipe).
The 1998> (From VIN (018108)) uses a different set of part numbers for the electronic control module.
The valve block can be obtained from a coupe, convertible or sedan (1998-2000) as long as the pipe count is the same. It is just a pump motor and solenoid unit.
You might have to get the module and pump units separately if you cannot get the exact one intact.
bob
The modules cannot be programmed as far as changing software (except at the factory) but they can be configured to the vehicle network if that is required. (WRONG PART FITTED) in the INST PK display!!!
Maybe a 1998/99 module will work??? I don’t know, I have never tried to do that.
bob
Mine is the six line type. I see the complete system on ebay for the year/model and it appears they are good for 98 and up, used and guaranteed. Being as how the motor wires are fried on mine I think best to replace with a complete item. Thanks Bob and Neil for your input. I have plenty of work ahead on this car. Replacing wheel sensors next. Then the gearbox. Any opinions on replacing just the improved timing chain shoes and tensioners and running with the original chains? Saves money and time. How bad could they have worn or stretched over 86k? I’ve heard of new chains busting anyway. The car has always run synthetic oil.
I bought a used ABS on ebay advertised as 97 ‘used’. Arrives today, junk! Burned wires to the pump same as mine plus the paint on it shriveled and burned. Also it’s a 5 line, not a six. So more delay sending it back. I’m going to pull mine and go about fixing the pump input solder points on the board. Pump is spooling up fine on the bench, seems OK in spite of the fried insulation on wires. I’ll also be replacing a wheel sensor link cable. (indicated by Autologic Quick test report)
Question, Is it possible a dead wheel sensor link alone can cause the dash error messages (ABS failure/stabilization failure, check engine light. ) ?
A faulty wheel speed sensor link harness is one of the main causes of the fault message in the INST PK.
I have several ABS modules that have PERMANENT C1155 faults logged and will not clear even when installed in a car with NO wheel speed sensor problems. Sometimes the modules just fail.
The C1095 is the pump motor circuit and that is the other most common fault.
Any fault will cause the ABS/TC/DSC failure to display. The system needs ALL the inputs to work properly.
bob
Thanks Bob. The link appears to be a replacement and tests good. At the connector the red/white leads to the harness have been stripped so somebody must have been there before. Why they had to remove insulation instead of testing at the pins who knows. Anyway, might you tell me how I could test the link to harness section? Should I read some impedance or none or some other trick? Ignition on or off? Battery connected or not? Also, perhaps the most important question is why did the pump’s power leads fry in the first place? I guess you must have seen this before. Pump gone bad and drawing too much? Pump running too long? (Does it normally run constantly anyway or just on demand)? Failing solder points in the module maybe? Could that heat the wires? The connector block and plug look fine, good contact there. Why would the two pump wires fry off their insulation?