Any ideas why the amber ABS warning light has come on and stays on? Is it safe to drive? Why doesn’t my code reader read the code, as I’d like to be able to clear it to see if it comes back on again!
Just wondered if it’s a known problem with a relatively easy fix, or could it be one of a number of problems.
I haven’t driven it much for quite a few months so might a good drive with lots of braking sort it out?
This is a fairly common fault for that period of Jaguars. Seems to be centered around two bad soldering joints. Here a source that may provide some guidance on repairing (i.e. making it work) the module.
Good Luck
Happy Trails,
Dick
Thanks Dick. If it’s not the sensors (either dirty or failed) or the wires, and it appears to be this, not sure I’d be confident doing it myself, but not sure whether a garage would do it, as opposed to wanting to replace the whole unit, or sending it off for repair.
I’m not going to disagree with the process above but on my '02 XJ8 I found relief from removing the plug shown and putting it back on. The first time I did it I was good for several days. Next time I got a few weeks. It looks like there is a problem with maybe oxidation of the small pins but I don’t dare try to brush them for fear of bending one. Taking the plug off and putting it back on a few times probably worked like re seating a board in a computer.
With the characteristic problem I had the ABS light would usually go off the next time I started the car. That is before I did anything. I also had a feeling like the caliper or pads were moving forward with a clunk. That was probably an ABS function. That problem has completely gone away with just what I said above.
Hi Seafrostsi,
That’s the beauty of this Forum. People having like issues and resolving them, many in different ways. After the Warranty expires we, the Jag-Lovers owners, want to keep out cars roadworthy but without the cost of dealership (or others) repairs.
I, too, experiencedstrong text this problem on my wife’s '99 XJR (X308). Once I re-soldered the two power inputs on the PCB I’ve had no further issues with that system. I have experienced wheel sensor problems on other Chrysler cars owned and the fix was usually just a good cleaning.
If there is a Jaguar Club or “Old Timers” club near where you live you may want to investigate, join and seek others help and assistance.
Knowing you “Fixed That” brings a smile motoring down the road in my experience. With the advent of the Internet and YouTube you have a fantastic electronic mentor only a few key strokes away. Use it all to your advantage.
Let the Forum know how your investigation, repair(s) and such fixed your ABS problem. Trust me, Jaguar has more up their sleeves!!! Ha Ha
Happy Trails,
Dick
the iCarSoft i930 reader (for JLR) have been confirmed to pull Jaguar specific ABS codes. Typical readers will not read them. Just make sure the iCarSoft reader has the JLR software accessory installed.
I had an issue with the passenger side ABS sensor. Kept cleaning it until one day I decided to bite the bullet and drop $500 on a new one. Never had the ABS light come one again.
The solder points mentioned earlier is a common issue though.
The two very common problems I fix all the time are the C1095 (pump motor fault) that the module circuit board soldering will fix and the short link harnesses (C1145/C1155) to the front speed sensors fail from constant up/down and side-to-side movement.
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It actually came on last year during the MOT. A mechanic cleared the codes and it didn’t come back on. How can I clear the codes to see if it’s a momentary problem or whether it’s now sensing there’s something now constantly wrong? Disconnecting the battery? Or should it go off straight away by itself if it senses there’s no longer a problem or does it only do that after a certain amount of miles?
You will need a code reader capable of communicating with your Jaguar.
I use WDS or IDS but I worked at the dealer and bought the used diagnostic equipment a few decades ago.
No other way I am aware of.
Would a code reader/codes detect whether it’s the sensor/wire, or the ABS module itself. If it can, and it turns out to be the latter, does anyone know of anyone in the UK that you can send it to to have it repaired, as I wouldn’t be confident of doing it myself. I wouldn’t imagine my garage would want to/be able to be fiddling about with soldering/repairing it, but if I can show them somewhere it can be sent to, they might do that. I’d imagine a replacement ABS unit would be horrendously expensive.
WDS and IDS will communicate with the ABS module and tell you what DTC is causing the fault.
Other types of OBD devices can also communicate but I don’t know which ones.
You can guess and ‘throw-parts’ at the car in hopes of a repair but that can get expensive.
If you’re uncomfortable doing a solder or reflow job on the ABS module, any electronics repair shop should be able to do it. It’s just a couple of soldering joints and as I recall, it was clear where the cracks were.
The tricky part may be opening up the sealed case to get to the board - possibly the repair shop might not want to do that. You can do that yourself with a fine hacksaw blade. When putting it back together use sensor-safe silicone sealant to seal up the rejoined plastic body halves.
If the electronics fix-it shop opens and closes the case, make sure they seal it.
Dave
Well, I bought the icarsoft scanner and successfully read the code, which indicated a problem with the front left sensor.
I cleared the code, went for a drive down the motorway, and the ABS light hasn’t come back on (for now).
So hoping it was nothing (bit of dirt on the sensor?), and it’ll be okay for the MOT in a few months, or at least I’ll be able to turn the light off it it comes on again, for enough time so it passes.
Most likely a faulty ‘link harness’ from the body to the sensor.
Is it a relatively easy job for a competent mechanic (not Jaguar specialist) to test wires/replace?
I just install a new link harness. Unplug from the body under the frame extension, cut all the ‘zip-ties’, unplug the sensor and install the new link harness.
There are people that have cut the connector ends off the old harness and ‘spliced-in’ a new center section where the wire flexes and moves with the suspension?
Testing may not reveal the fault as it only takes a split second of OPEN CIRCUIT to trigger the DTC. The harness is probably old and has done thousands of suspension cycles?
Why would anyone splice a new centre section in rather than replace the whole? Presume it’s easy enough to feed into the engine bay.
Good point about testing. Guess to be sure that it’s the wire rather than the sensor I’d need to wait and see if it permanently triggers the ABS light.
I have NEVER had to replace a wheel speed sensor except when a bearing fails and destroys the sensor.(it is always the link harness)
The link harness does not feed into the engine bay. It is connected under the front frame rail and routed along the upper control arm to the sensor.
The link harness is ‘pricey’ for what it is. I’m thinking maybe $80 from the Jaguar parts dept? The ends don’t get much wear so ‘splicing-in’ a new center section is probably why it is done like that for some people?
That’s useful to know, thank you. Ah, so both ends are connected underneath the car. Should be easy for a mechanic then. I saw video of XK8 with it connected in the engine thinking it was the same.
Have seen a used one on ebay for £6, but seems a bit pointless if it’s been bending like a failed one. Other than Jaguar wouldn’t know where to get a new one.
Jaguar part LNF3410AA for the wheel speed sensor short link harness.
Have not had to purchase one in years.
I have 3 X308 parts cars so I do have my own ‘salvage-yard’.
Since they are so easy to access and replace, a good-used might make sense?