Great job young man!
Make us proud!
Great job young man!
Pulled out the junk pumps this morning. I had skinned up my forearm pretty badly on the sharp edge of the access hole yesterday, and the gas fumes were burning like fire. So my spouse wrapped my arm in Cling wrap. Worked great. Took about 30 minutes to disconnect and pull the pumps. Note that it’s virtually impossible to disconnect the wires on the pump until it’s outside the tank…first disconnect the hoses, then remove the mounting screw and pull the pump out of the tank…then the wire connector. The fuel level sending unit comes out with the wire harness.
I’ve read that the original pumps were Denso. Since they failed at 38,000 miles I wasn’t impressed. Ordered some life time warranty units (same as AutoZone’s premium offering) for about $60 each from Rock Auto. Now that I have the trap door and have mastered the technique for removing the back seat, I can change them in short order if necessary in the future. By the way, the low cost alternative offered by the usuals look like the URO pump that is also sold by Rock Auto. Bosch doesn’t list the XJ/XJR, nor does Walbro (for the V8 cars).
I just finished installing the new aftermarket pumps in the Jaguar brackets (out of the car). Very minor trimming of the rubber grommets required. Then I got to wondering about the recommended strainer socks that I had purchased from Rock Auto ($12). They’re smaller in area than the originals and I contemplated delaying another few days and ordering the original Jaguar strainers ($40 from the local dealer, $22 from Terry’s). And then I was curious about what makes the originals so special, so I cut one open. Turns out there is a second felt type inner pad/liner within the typical nylon/plastic mesh screen. My conclusion was that this felt layer must seriously restrict flow, even when new. My suspicion is that these filters are very likely a contributor to premature pump failures. Given that there is a large in-line filter prior to the fuel injectors, I’m going with the simpler (and definitely higher flow) pump strainers. The tank is pristine inside.
If you blow up this photo you can see the fuzzy material in the inner layer of the factory filter. The pumps go in tomorrow.
I think the newer strainers had deleted the extra filter as well because the pumps would OVERHEAT when there wasn’t enough fuel in the tank creating a strong suction.
Common on the db9 of the time…
Keep going. Im not blowing anything up till after your done…I like you to much.
It’s running…well. On first few start attempts I could hear the pump pressurizing the system for a couple of seconds and then stop…normal. When I engaged the starter it would fire right up, run a few seconds, and then stumble and stop. So the second fuel pump wasn’t kicking in. Sure enough there was a blown fuse on the second pump. Installed a new fuse and it started and idled just fine. Then I tested the operation of the second pump at rpm/high power…no bogging issues…in fact I was stunned at the ferocity of the acceleration. So everything works as advertised. Tomorrow I seal up the access hole and reinstall the rear seat.
Unfortunately, there is now a suspension fault light that wasn’t there before. I jacked up the left rear yesterday, so I have a hunch a sensor tripped…or maybe at wants new shocks. Having never driven one of these cars before I was surprised at how stiff the shocks felt.
Anyway, the really good news is that the AC blows ice cold…it’s 95F today. Spouse approves of the new tow truck. My old Jeep pickup is officially for sale. .
You might find the drive will reset the suspension light. When I dropped the rear suspension from my ‘99 XJR the abs light came on after reinstall until I went for a drive. Cleared up within a few seconds.
Great job the light might go out after a couple of key cycles
I hadn’t heard that the second pump kicks in after starting.
Cleaver if it does, to run it for a few seconds to prevent siezing.
If you have active shocks, they have 3 wires going to them.
They run under the rear seat base, so check nothing is unplugged or damaged there
Oh and have you plugged the accelerometer in which sits at the bottom of the fuel tank inside the boot. I guess you never disconnected it? red/yellow/blue wires
Bingo!! I disconnected that wire plug below the tank to removed the padding that covers the top of the tank and did indeed forget to reconnect it. I had wondered what the device was for. Thank you for “repairing” that item (I’ll reconnect the plug and check it shortly). Given the harshness of the suspension during my first drive yesterday, I suspect the shocks go to full firmness when the accelerometer is disconnected…
Yes, during my trouble shooting phase for the fuel problem I ran across several explanations of pump operation. It’s my understanding that the “booster pump” pressurizes the system when the key is turned to the first detent. Then the “main” pump comes on (and stays on) when the system detects the engine is turning over in the start and run phase. When the main pump comes on, the pump that pressurizes the system goes to standby until needed as a fuel flow supplement during high power operation or if the “main” pump fails. As you know, this is what provides the limp home feature.
Thank you gain, Andy, for the tip about that accelerometer wire. I;d have likely chased that for a week until/if I stumbled across it during reassembly of the boot area… Now I need to get the check engine light to extinguish so I can get the emissions inspection completed and get it registered and tagged. I’ll disconnect/reconnect the battery today to see if it will kill the light. By the way, his little fiasco suggests I need to purchase an OBDII reader.
Yes get one, the battery will cut it off but it will pop back .
Or come on immediate if the cats are plugged.
You need to wash the code out and drive for up to 50 miles or it will store and you wont pass the emmissions test.
Run it and you will be fine…
Well, I can’t legally run it without tags, and I can’t get tags without an emissions test. Catch 22. If I can clear everything with the OBD box long enough to run it over to the testing station (on a temporary tag) then I can dick with it at my leisure. An OBD arrives from my dear friends at Amazon tomorrow.
diag readers can be a bit hit and miss on these.
You could use an ELM327 off ebay. (cheap) If you have an iPhone, you MUST get the WiFi version.
or an iCarSoft i930
One that complies with the standard ISO9141
You probably have a dash of grey hair
I don’t think the cops will break your chops in a jag sedan?
In New York the test can read ANY black box clearing until it’s cleared and the evap loop has ran and wipes it out
New new new cars it’s stored forever
With your carthe text won’t run and lock you out till fixed!
I think I had two or three grey hairs left before I bought this car…now they are all white. I purchased an AL519 reader and it’s supposed to be ISO 9141 compatible.
So, Joey…are you saying I might be able to wipe the box with this thing just before I drive into the testing station and get a clean run OBD readout…or not. (I used to live on Governors Island and flew for the Coast Guard out of Floyd Bennet, by the way). Surely a CAT wouldn’t be plugged at 38,000 miles… Oh wait…“surely both fuel pumps couldn’t be failed at 38,000 miles”…
By the way, Andy, I plugged in the accelerometer. The advisory message cleared and the ride is smooth as buttah…I was alarmed at the buckboard ride yesterday.
Plug the obd2 under the dash
Turn the key on…
Whether the light comes on or not with the key on, NOT RUNNING
Hit the enter or go button on the obd2…
It will either say NO CODES or THE CODES P111 or whatever.
No codes drive for awhile stop and go all different speeds till it cycles.
If a code pops up, CLEAR IT, Then go for a ride…
ONE BIG MONKEY WRENCH…The car must be 3/4 of fuel OR LESS!!!
Above 3/4 the evap cycle will not run.
Its a story for another day.
Anything below it will cycle…either the light will pop back on or wipe it out.
LOW BATTERY volts will do the same, so even a battery change will bring on the light…
YOU MUST CYCLE THE SYSTEM OR YOU WILL NOT PASS 30 TO 50 MILES.
Call me , pm your cell. All this was on a 308 to current cars…
Good luck and yes it will wipe out the code once cycled.
Thanks for sticking with me on this GTJOEY. I had a hunch this would be related to the emissions system since it was all disconnected back at the tank. I’ll follow your detailed instructions…probably get a temporary tag until I can sort it out. Regards
Wait, your saying it was all disconnected BEFORE you bought the car?
It appears to be fixed…no warning/advisory lights. Joey, I followed the procedures we discussed on the phone, added another 5 gallons of fuel and drove it around the neighborhood for about twenty minutes. Stopped and shut it down a few times in between. On the last restart the light was out. As you said it apparently needs some running time to reset itself after the emissions items back at the tank were reconnected. So on Monday , it’s off to get it inspected and tagged. Thanks everyone for the help…what a relief.