2003 Jaguar XKR convertible flood (H2O) RESCUE thread

Good morning all you :cat2: lovers…

I can’t believe I’m doing this. Honestly don’t know how to approach this. One step at a time might be best. So here goes. Sorry to DUMP so much.

A little back story. There’s a guy who lives near me that has a habit of buying European sports cars on auction, and has them delivered to his house. Usually not running, in need of LOTS of love and attention. Although I think he’s nutts, he and I have become something like friends, cars as out common interest. My 1990 XJS Convertible, 2002 XK8 and 86 Porsche 928 (and an old Honda Goldwing) have all come from him and, “The Yard”… He doesn’t drive, doesn’t have a license - you can’t make this stuff up.

Anyways, he has a 2003 XKR SC Convertible and I am already in love with this thing… Love to hate! Thin line.

It was in a fresh water flood and I am fairly confident water did not go above the center console, stereo, line. I could be wrong. But foolishly maybe, believe I am right.

I have begun 2 threads but thought I should try and consolidate all of this into one for ease of use. I like to make separate threads titled by ISSUE so others might be able to use the forum more effectively when they search. Either with browser or the forum itself. But this is going to be a hard thing I think, so, for my sake, I’ll keep it all in one place.

The alternator has been replaced…

I have only been working on it (lacking courage) with a fairly powerful battery “Jumper” that when fully charged will supply a good 12+ volts for a pretty long time. I am fearful to install a hard wired bolting in battery at this point for fear of not being able to disconnect it quickly. The “jumper” is connected to hanging battery cables. NOW, I think I am closer to being confident enough to hook up a battery and jumper on my next go round. This Saturday most likely.

So far: I have been working on things for 2 days or so.

  • No blown fuses found yet, but they are nasty/crusty and I plan to replace them all.
  • I have removed and then reset every relay. I need to go back and test them individually maybe, but strangely they looked clean and un-effected by the presence of h20…
  • Dash lights up. Fuel level reads 1/2 tank. I’ve seen evidence of life in the dash module.
  • All exterior light systems work with stalk.
    Stereo works (display is dead but I can hear music thru speakers).
  • HVAC system seems to work (I get an ERR message when the system is in the off position and I connect the power supply, but that goes off after a sec, or when I hit the power button. Fans turn and can vary thru speeds and (I think) it will cycle thru vent settings. Defrost, face level, foot area, etc…
  • Brake lights work.
  • Interior lights work and will respond to door opening and dim out when doors are closed.
  • If I key the door, locks will lock but not both. If I HOLD key in the lock position I will get that high pitched BEEP telling me that something is unsecured. Alarm WILL NOT “set” though. Turning key to unlock, front windows will go down (not quarters roof/hood system is in parts) which is a good sign.
  • THE KICKER - the Security Module is from a DONOR car. Original was fried… I REALLY NEED TO THINK ABOUT THIS as a serious trouble spot.

So far, much to do with the BPM seems to be working-ish. This makes me happy.

Tried reading the ECU/M with a simple Torque OBD2. Cannot connect to the ECU? Have no idea why…?

Dash display reads:

  • DCS System Fault
  • Limiter Not Available - I have NO idea what that even means
  • CRUISE CONTROL not available
  • GEAR BOX FAULT - J-Gate has settled down some but now, only P, N, R will light up, D and 1, 2, 3 , 4 and 5 will not. Red dot blinks sometimes. I think neutral switch was effected by h20, I took some things apart yesterday I will need help with.
  • Doors, Boot, Bonnet Open… When they are open, no indication when closed, which is good Body Module news.
  • Restricted Performance.

lol, I think thats “IT”, OMG!!!

SO, this next thing could really be allllll about the SLCModule…? The car will not crank or turn over. The key cycles, will go into position III, but allllll I get is a soft clicking under the RH dash. Dash lights go out with key turned all the way - as if when it should be cranking. It sounds like the BPModule is making a sound and then, something else under the dash on the RH kick panel area. I can’t see or feel what’s clicking. I have 12v at the the power side of the relay, and voltage at the control side. I don’t think it’s getting the ground signal to the control side to power the starter. Starter WILL spin when directly jumped. If I jumper the relay 30/87 the starter will spin.

Maybe I should try and inspect and super clean the old SLCModule!? I know it was under water.

  • Is there anything I can do to BY PASS Exciter ring for the key? Would that matter?
  • Does anyone know exactly where the Key Transponder/module is?
  • Is the ONLY thing that will bring me farther to do with reprogramming the SLCM?

Please tell me ANYTHING that comes to mind. I am all ears and super grateful! No doubt!

If there is ANYTHING that I can clarify or try to state better (my experience is limited compared to many of y’alls here) I will try. Just say

This is the only picture I have of the car… And a few of the BPM… Looks clean, I guess. Lol, I don’t mean the car :sweat_smile::joy::laughing::smiley::sweat_smile:

I’ll drop some photos of the ECM/U internals PCB as soon as possible.

I tried to post a few pictures of the PCB board but the RULES didn’t let me. I’ve been a member for some time, hmm…?

A year of two back, another lister posted about getting a ‘glugger,’ and bringing it back to life.

Check the archives.

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I don’t know the forum layout as well as that, but I’ll start looking. I’ve been doing lots of reading as you must know, but more reading and learning is in my future, I think. Thanks

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Inquiring minds want to know how much you gave for it! :grin::grin::grin::grin: I saw your thread on the “other” forum and was definitely interested in the whole thing as I’ve went Hmmmmmm on several flood exotics. However the wife usually goes HMMMMPPPPHHHHH! when I show her lol :grin::joy::sweat::sweat::sweat:

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Nothing yet, and I won’t until intake it around the block or see better chances at “signs of life”… But just under 2grand.

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Hahaha… My girlfriend texted me the EXACT same expression… Exactly that, hahalolol… She doesn’t understand (and I don’t either) how instrumental it all is at keeping me sane, from bouncing off the walls, especially with the way O the world, today. Anyways, that’s a whole OTHER convo.

Thanks for saying HellO

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Any pointers on what lies between the ignition key and starter? I do have power at the starter relay. Both pins that are supposed to have juice have juice. It’s not grounding at the ECU/M or BCM? I don’t know which.

Found it! I’ve no idea what you need but contacting this guy may help.

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Super duper encouraging and re-assuring… I need some right now. I haven’t gotten a lot of words of encouragement so far. Especially from my girlfriend, lolololol…

I’ll be damned if I will let insurance companies dictate or determine what has value. What motivates them, and what motivates me are twooo completely different things. Ya know?

I hate to say it (and it might not be 100% true) but electronically there are a ton O differences between the XK8 and the XJS, lol, I’ve rescued one of each and the XKR is my third. Along with an Ol Porsche 928 and an Ol HondaGoldwing - both 86…

Still, I need help and (pardon the cheap pun) but I am in uncharted waters and in a bit over my head, hahahahaha…

I need to get her cranking.

I am betting ignition and fueling are going to be my next major hurdles…

What say you?

I might have missed if you already did, but if the mechanicals–engine, turns,-diff–had water in them, I can almost GARONTEE they have silt in them, too.

Have you:
-Drained all the fluids?
-thoroughly FLUSHED the components?
-done that TWICE?

I’ve done a lot of electrical cleaning, I plan on draining the diff due to vented design. The oil is clear thank goodness and the plug holes took no water. I should just go ahead and drain the tranny and fill it from the cooler line until it starts leaking out of the fill port for now,… I have more stuff like that to do, lol… It’s only been a couplah days, (smiling)… I’m at that stupid thing called WORK all day today.

I’ve gotta figure out how to take a “quote” from folks who are posting when I reply…

Just hover the cursor and I guess hold the left key?(I normally work from my iPad) over the start of the words or on an iPad touch and hold until the ‘Quote” comes up then drag to where you want to finish.

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Assume it/they did: change the oil, filter, and pull the plugs.

Turn engine over by hand to determine if there’s any ring lock.

If not crank, plugless, till oil pressure is up.

Oh! It turns if I hot wire the starter and, if I jumper the starter relay in the ECU compartment. Turns very nicely - I must say. I have voltage at the starter relay

Edit - after spooning some oil into the cylinders

Perfect! Thank you, Robin!

And, I can’t find the damn key module…

This may help or it may confuse. Anyway, last year when I was trying to sort out a problem with my immobiliser one of the things I wanted to do was to carry out some tests on the Key Transponder Module but as much as I looked I couldn’t find it where I thought it should be.

The Electrical Guide for the 1997 MY (mine) says that it is next to the Passenger side fusebox, the back of which is in itself pretty inaccessible. But I did get at it but still couldn’t find the KTM. In the end I didn’t need to do the test so the need to find it went away.

Reading the posts above moved me to look at the 2003 EG ( your car ) which says the location of the KTM is next to the Driver’s side FB. I never thought to look on the Driver’s side but when you think about it , its location doesn’t want to be too far from the key exciter.

So, the possibilities are (a) both guides are correct and I just didn’t find the KTM or (b) Jaguar moved the location of the KTM from one side of the car to the other between 1997 and 2003 - unlikely or c) the KTM is on the Driver’s side of my car and there is a mistake in the 1997 EG.

It’s winter and the car is outside and I can’t be bothered to go and pull all the trim to see but there is more than an even chance that c) is right and that’s where I’d look on your car.

BTW did I understand that the SLCM is not the one from the car. If it isn’t, won’t it need programming to the vehicle’s other modules?

And another BTW, the note about the exciter ring, I have a spare which I made into a test jig to see what happens when you put the key in. There is a burst of pulses when the key is put into the lock which I vaguely remember as being at around 30kHz. I think this lights up the key which then send its code back to the KTM as data. I can’t see a way of easily bypassing this. I’m not sure if the code is checked in the KTM or the ECM (probably the ECM) but it’s not going to be that easy to trick it.

Hey Eric! Hi. Thanks a LOT for the addition to this thread and (hopefully) elaborating on the things you came across when doing your work! Every week I have to go 4 to 5 full days before I can get things done, and the hamster on the treadmill is always going. I swear it can get distracting, lol… I come up with lots of theories, and can’t apply them. Hamster wheel time…

All and all, I am very confident about my future with this car and my ability to get it sorted. I’m excited for the Spring, ya know?

It’s not the original, although I have the old one (I will be posting pictures), it looked very crusty. So far the only module that has looked bad. I assumed it was toast and had an on hand replacement that I just popped in. And YES, it would/will need to be reprogrammed. I’m dreading this. I’m going to go this Saturday with a large bottle of 90% isopropyl, a chip brush and see if I can clean it up. I think that the SCLM always runs a low level of power and when the car went under, battery still connected, it did what it did. Nothing in it shows any signs of burned, but many threads and components are covered in that ashy greyish fuzz. I would MUCH prefer to keep the original.

Still, I think I will need to purchase the British Diagnostic system for like $140 for reprogramming… I have heard mixed reviews… Car work doesn’t pay my bills, so I can’t be spending $700 for a system. Don’t have the $$$ and can’t justify it even if I did.

Ok! So for me, this is the big question. Are you (or is anyone) able to describe the behavior of the ignition system when the car DOESN’T recognize the key??? Does it cycle thru key switch settings like normal or does it produce NO response in any of the key turn points? Meaning do you get dash lights, does it seem normal thru insertion, to 1, to ii, to iii and such, failing to crank only at the end or, is it just dead all the way??? Will it click in anyway at that last startup twist?
My key seems to WANT to work and cycles thru all key positions normally (as normal as one can expect considering the state of the car right now) but then falls flat at the spring loaded 3rd twist that would engage starter, only at the end. When I remove the key, the little mechanism snaps shut and the forgot key chime ceases, the radio, windows, dash and other functions work at key position ii, I think it is… But things stop at position 3startup turn. Let go of the sprung key, dash relights and things go back to “normal” as if it’s a “good” key.

I am super interested in knowing what behavior (for lack of a better word) an “unrecognized” key produces in these cars. Hahahaha, help a Brotha sleep at night!?

Plain and simple, I am terrrrrrible with electri-cals… I get nervous and disorganized. It’s just my truth. I have a DMM, and will watch some YouTube to get more familiar (and must!) with its use…

If you don’t mind, is there a Rosetta Stone sentence or two you (or anyone) can offer about deciphering the design, layout, format of the EG? It’s terrible… This is the one I have been using with GREAT frustration… The “jagxk2003.pdf”… It was too big to attach, it seems.

Guys know, I am so appreciative of your time and attention… Really!

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I think you have the right approach with the original SLCM. My experience with laptops that have been watered by various means is that depending on how long the battery stayed up, you get degrees of corrosion ranging from something that will clean up easily with a brush and some isopropyl alcohol to power legs on chips completely dissolved. Best thing is to clean up the PCB and then go over it very carefully with a magnifying glass. Even if you can save it, it may not have held on to its programming.

On my car, with the key not recognised, it wouldn’t crank. Everything lit up as you expect and the dash light certainly didn’t go out with the key in Start. Just a click from a relay somewhere and nothing else except the red security light was flashing.

Assuming you have the proper Jaguar Electrical Guide, I don’t agree that it’s terrible. All the information that you need is there but if you’ve not used one before, you may have to spend a bit of time learning how it is arranged. The squares and circles with numbers in are all coded and tell you where to find the particular wire on a different page. The diagrams are in functional groups so you may find some parts of a module on one page and others in a different diagram. The Body Processor is a good example of this.

Here is a diagram of how all the parts of the Security and Starting system fit together:

and this is the sequence that should happen when you put the key in:

Hope that helps a bit. Good luck!