Good morning all you lovers…
I can’t believe I’m doing this. Honestly don’t know how to approach this. One step at a time might be best. So here goes. Sorry to DUMP so much.
A little back story. There’s a guy who lives near me that has a habit of buying European sports cars on auction, and has them delivered to his house. Usually not running, in need of LOTS of love and attention. Although I think he’s nutts, he and I have become something like friends, cars as out common interest. My 1990 XJS Convertible, 2002 XK8 and 86 Porsche 928 (and an old Honda Goldwing) have all come from him and, “The Yard”… He doesn’t drive, doesn’t have a license - you can’t make this stuff up.
Anyways, he has a 2003 XKR SC Convertible and I am already in love with this thing… Love to hate! Thin line.
It was in a fresh water flood and I am fairly confident water did not go above the center console, stereo, line. I could be wrong. But foolishly maybe, believe I am right.
I have begun 2 threads but thought I should try and consolidate all of this into one for ease of use. I like to make separate threads titled by ISSUE so others might be able to use the forum more effectively when they search. Either with browser or the forum itself. But this is going to be a hard thing I think, so, for my sake, I’ll keep it all in one place.
The alternator has been replaced…
I have only been working on it (lacking courage) with a fairly powerful battery “Jumper” that when fully charged will supply a good 12+ volts for a pretty long time. I am fearful to install a hard wired bolting in battery at this point for fear of not being able to disconnect it quickly. The “jumper” is connected to hanging battery cables. NOW, I think I am closer to being confident enough to hook up a battery and jumper on my next go round. This Saturday most likely.
So far: I have been working on things for 2 days or so.
- No blown fuses found yet, but they are nasty/crusty and I plan to replace them all.
- I have removed and then reset every relay. I need to go back and test them individually maybe, but strangely they looked clean and un-effected by the presence of h20…
- Dash lights up. Fuel level reads 1/2 tank. I’ve seen evidence of life in the dash module.
- All exterior light systems work with stalk.
Stereo works (display is dead but I can hear music thru speakers).
- HVAC system seems to work (I get an ERR message when the system is in the off position and I connect the power supply, but that goes off after a sec, or when I hit the power button. Fans turn and can vary thru speeds and (I think) it will cycle thru vent settings. Defrost, face level, foot area, etc…
- Brake lights work.
- Interior lights work and will respond to door opening and dim out when doors are closed.
- If I key the door, locks will lock but not both. If I HOLD key in the lock position I will get that high pitched BEEP telling me that something is unsecured. Alarm WILL NOT “set” though. Turning key to unlock, front windows will go down (not quarters roof/hood system is in parts) which is a good sign.
- THE KICKER - the Security Module is from a DONOR car. Original was fried… I REALLY NEED TO THINK ABOUT THIS as a serious trouble spot.
So far, much to do with the BPM seems to be working-ish. This makes me happy.
Tried reading the ECU/M with a simple Torque OBD2. Cannot connect to the ECU? Have no idea why…?
Dash display reads:
- DCS System Fault
- Limiter Not Available - I have NO idea what that even means
- CRUISE CONTROL not available
- GEAR BOX FAULT - J-Gate has settled down some but now, only P, N, R will light up, D and 1, 2, 3 , 4 and 5 will not. Red dot blinks sometimes. I think neutral switch was effected by h20, I took some things apart yesterday I will need help with.
- Doors, Boot, Bonnet Open… When they are open, no indication when closed, which is good Body Module news.
- Restricted Performance.
lol, I think thats “IT”, OMG!!!
SO, this next thing could really be allllll about the SLCModule…? The car will not crank or turn over. The key cycles, will go into position III, but allllll I get is a soft clicking under the RH dash. Dash lights go out with key turned all the way - as if when it should be cranking. It sounds like the BPModule is making a sound and then, something else under the dash on the RH kick panel area. I can’t see or feel what’s clicking. I have 12v at the the power side of the relay, and voltage at the control side. I don’t think it’s getting the ground signal to the control side to power the starter. Starter WILL spin when directly jumped. If I jumper the relay 30/87 the starter will spin.
Maybe I should try and inspect and super clean the old SLCModule!? I know it was under water.
- Is there anything I can do to BY PASS Exciter ring for the key? Would that matter?
- Does anyone know exactly where the Key Transponder/module is?
- Is the ONLY thing that will bring me farther to do with reprogramming the SLCM?
Please tell me ANYTHING that comes to mind. I am all ears and super grateful! No doubt!
If there is ANYTHING that I can clarify or try to state better (my experience is limited compared to many of y’alls here) I will try. Just say
This is the only picture I have of the car… And a few of the BPM… Looks clean, I guess. Lol, I don’t mean the car
I’ll drop some photos of the ECM/U internals PCB as soon as possible.