Perfect! Thanks for this description! Helps! And is clear!
I do get the blinking red light on the JGate assembly… Also, blinking of the selected gear sometimes.
Now (this is new) the alarm will beeeep if I turn the key in the door lock towards the locked position. The beep is the fault tone I get on my XK8 when the system cannot arm due to something being ajar… At this point I have not closed everything up and tried the key in the arm position (which would be moot anyways considering it’s not the original SCLM)… Could it be that the alarm was on when it went for a swim? Would that matter now?
I will be taking a MUCH closer look at the SCLM this weekend and installing a new battery, running a charger at 2 or 5 amps.
Anyways, it’s possible that the water level, while cresting low enough to not damage other systems, it may have come up just high enough to damage the KeyModule (that I have not seen yet). I got the sense it was tucked WAY up there in the dash. We’ll see.
I have to say it’s a bit disappointing to learn that the key “behaves” normally through key turn only to fail to engage starter at the end… Was hoping for a tell tale difference… I’ll chase this problem down. I have to.
I am sure the guide is brilliant once familiar. I think I will have it printed out rather than looking at it on a screen. I am much much better with physical than electronic resource material.
Q: I don’t think I captured it in the photos, but the bolt down threaded for the wire harness. Does that play a part in grounding the module, ya think? All this time there was no bolt. In looking at the module, it seems that there is a tie in with the board and the frame of the box, grounding it? Could it be?
I really believe my problem (the current on, lol) is between the key and the starter relay. Which on these machines is no small deal, and a number of things. Some G.O.Direction for my attack, is super welcomed!
This is the SCLM… Not so nice, but no signs of burning or fried circuits. Just corroded solder joints. Bad! But I am hopeful. I washed it up, super light coated it, misting the metals with a bit of WD, and its held up above a radiator in the house. We’ll see.
There is definitely some electrolytic corrosion on some of the legs of chips and some of the caps. These would have had a supply on them when they got wet. Nothing looks gone completely so with care you may well be able to save it.
The exciter ring is just a coil of wire in a plastic housing. It isn’t coded as there is nothing to code, It plugs into a little metal box which I think must be the amplifier and it is that that communicates with the KTM. You can measure its resistance which I seem to remember is about 36 ohms. If yours is different to this I will find and check my spare.I think that the key code must be stored in the KTM. That must be what happens when the keys are programmed to the car.
I found that this is very difficult system to fault find on because there are so many communications going on. There is a serial data bus that the KTM uses to tell the ECM OK to start which allows fuelling and ignition. The BPM is also on this bus and receives an acknowledge signal also in serial data. The BPM checks that the gear selector is in P or N and also receives the security status from the SLCM. This is also on a bus but this signal is in Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP which is Ford thing).
If you have an oscilloscope you can check for the presence of these signals but there is very little information about the actual content of the data words. So even if you can see the data you don’t know if it correct. I only ever got as far as checking for presence which in my case was good enough.
I am guessing, intuitively, that the BPM won’t send the acknowledge to the ECM unless the security status is satisfied. The reason I say this it that when my car would not crank, I couldn’t hear the fuel pump running.
I think that at this stage it may be a mistake to be worrying about the key and that part of the system. Personally, I would try to get the SLCM working so that you lock and unlock the car with the fob. If you can unlock the car like this you know that the security system is not armed. Then if the car still won’t crank you can concentrate on the rest of the system.
Thank you Eric. The time is getting closer (Saturday) when I can go and just get dirty, and put all of the information moving around over the last days to use… I have a new 900cca AMG Battery, enough fuses to replace them all, and now, a ton of new info swirling. Its all good. I’ll (we’ll) figure this out.
Just because, I wanted to post something here that I just posted on another inoperable KTM thread I found. I just want to go in tomorrow with some idea of what I’m looking at…
I wrote:
So the exciter is passive, only amplifies, and sends the keys code to the transponder…?
The transponder is also passive, and sends that info to the BPM, so the BPM can give the green light to all systems…? Or does the transponder give the green light? From this, it looks like the transponder sends the message to FUEL and for the security acknowledgement to the BCM which THEN sends it elsewhere…?
If that is the case COULD a matching key, exciter (maybe the exciter isn’t so important here) and importantly the KTM from a donor give the green light to the BCM which will then send the signal to other components… ie the ECU/M?
Oh, she ran. Fired right up and told me about some other problems… NO FUEL PRESSURE!
Had to pour a little gas in the trottle body. Luckily I ordered these last week!!! Always good to plan ahead! Lol, you know what they say about best laid plans
I’m insane!
I have a bunch of other questions (some photos and report back stuff) but first I’m going to catch my breath a little. Been at it since the sun came up…
Quick question… I plan on trying to dig around the internet and figure out if needed but,
There is a little box tucked in, padded on two sides, near the boot fuse box… It was in rough shape when I opened it… What is it and do I need to program this little module? If you know??? I hope it’s not a program type part…
I’ll see if I can get a photo
You can kind make it out, there, with the two strange plugs. It tucks right between the main board of the fuse panel and the box like frame out that houses it all
Also… It’s bad. This is one of the upper corners of the fuel pump control module… Has to be toast! I have a spare that I borrowed, I can find them easy on eBay, but am wondering if it’s a part that has to be programmed OR is is an on off thing?
Question… Having to do with the power supply to the 4.2 2003 fuel pump… How is it powered? I’m getting positive readings on lines going in and out of it AND from the fuel pump pressure control module…
I’ve learned that there is no relay for this pump and, the fuse is not fuse 7, but 5, I think…
Can the correct fuel pump be bench tested?
Is it a system where positive is fed thru the pump and then grounded at the FPModiule? Where the FPM is like a rheostat? Please see photo.
So, I bench tested a FP from the pre 2002/3 xk8… It would not run under the power of the car but bench tested fine. Again, both lines coming into the FP are positive, by design.
I could really use some guidance here. Also
Is there an aftermarket fuel pump that I can ziptie into this damn plasitc bucket in the tank? Lol… My last nerve
I have a plan of attack for tomorrow, Saturday. My hope is that I will get her running.
Temporarily, until I can figure out the PWM and why I am not getting controlled ground to the pump (at the risk of over fueling) I intend to direct ground the pump. I have Walbro 255LPH still in the box and an old XK8 pump on the line now I’ll try first. I don’t plan on driving ANYTIME soon, just running, warming, idling…
With the HOPE that she will start, I’ll be showing up with 5gallons of ATF… I know it could be a TRUE DISASTER, but I found water in the Transmission. I need to flush as best as possible. Can’t know what percent water, but it looks like raspberry balsamic vinaigrette…
After opening the drain plug and draining the pan, what’s the BEST way to drain every bit (or as much possible) of fluid out of this 10 liter system???
Q: Is there anyplace for moisture or steam to go as the trans heats up? A vent, anything, in the transmission?
For access to the fill plug on the diff, I will be drilling on the boot wall under the tank. That’s what I understood as an approach to diff fluid change.
Where does water enter the transmission??? Is there a breather? A vent?
