Hi Dave,
I haven’t got there yet as I’m still trying to address the issue I have with the new valve collars and collets. I think I’m getting there, but am probably going to have to resort to the original collars and collets and forget the new parts. It seems there was a design change in these parts that is more than just their length, as I cannot get decent space for the shim to locate properly on top of the valve using the new parts - see the other thread on this. Once that’s done I’ll be back to installing the head.
I have installed all the studs, and am planning to stick with the single dowel stud as factory. In the absence of any further feedback, I’ll clean both sides of the metal gasket and apply the spray as directed in the instructions on the can. Two different types of sealant together doesn’t sound like a good idea, and a wipe with some brake cleaner should remove it without damaging the surface. I’ll follow Lee’s idea of taping over the stud threads to avoid scrapings of aluminium dropping down the holes.
You could just insert another stud at the opposite end and side to align the HG.
Thanks Roger….
I have been trying to visualize both of these ideas… head first then studs, and taping the studs…
I decided to pass on the head first method… I don’t see how there will be enough of the stud above the head and the raised valve cover flange to get a solid grip on it to ensure it is seated fully, and boy would it be a bad scene if you get most of them in and then get that “maybe cross-threading this one” feeling!
For the tape, I would want to ensure that you don’t apply the tape very far down the threads as the last few threads will be inside the head so you won’t be able to get the tape off…
I have never reassembled an XK6 engine, but I have done a number of other similar era cars and motorcycles, and nerver actually thought about the head studs beyond installing them, then the gasket, then the head… now I’m trying not to over-think this one!
My rebuild has also been delayed… having ordered gaskets, a lot of replacement studs etc, I realize I forgot to inspect and ultimately order the two studs that mount in the timing cover and go through the head. As with most of the smaller studs in my engine, these studs are different sizes from each other, and I don’t think either one is actually correct. On the one hand I figure they came out ok so they should be able to go back in, on the other hand I think no wonder this car leaks and rattles so much!
Then upon closer inspection I discovered that both the holes in the timing cover are stripped, hence the mix and match studs I guess…. Anyways, correct studs on order and helicoil kits on standby once all the dimensions are known….
A job that would have taken me 2 weekends back in the 80s is stretching into month 8!
You forgot the head gasket which will compress a lot more than the paint, and the paint will just seal off the studs better (not a concern on your engine, only on later long stud engines).