Saw off the pivot, build it up with new extension pieces on the bench and then progressively tack the assembly to the top cover? I’ve had several repaired covers and none of them were ever distorted, including your exchange.
As the original cover is the only bit where precision needs to be maintained, I’d bolt it to the super-stiff gearbox casing while you tack/cool/tack/cool again the single-rod extension to the cover,
Hello,
Well I have what I hope will be a good fix to my problem. The pivot has been moved out 4". And the rod moves freely with no distortion to the cover.
mike
Another modification entails the clutch. This engine has the hydraulic clutch. Using the existing shaft I modified a flange bearing to fit this area and mounted the master cylinder from the S-type to the frame. Pedal travel seems to be correct and I will run a line over the trans to the slave and mount a line to a reservoir located in the engine compartment. I test fit the engine and exhaust for clearance.
Did you tack the fabricated extension to the cover last as discussed? I can imagine you paused for thought (and maybe prayer!) as you started to saw the XJ shifter off. l’m glad to have some room under the bench again - enjoyl
I worked on it with a local fella that does aluminum welding. The cutting was nerve racking. And yes, the extension went on last, he was surprised it didn’t warp like he thought it would.
Battleships, that’s a good one.
Hi, I am looking to fit an all-synchro OD box to my XK140. I have a spare 140 bell housing and the XJ6 extended box cover. However, rather than use the synchro bell/clutch housing I want to use the 140 one and retain the mechanical clutch.
Can anyone please tell me it feasible to weld in to the hole in the clutch housing end plate a thick piece of aluminium which can then be machined out to receive the seal and gearbox front bearing? Presently there is a large hole there, as per pic. A cross section of the synchro bell housing showing the seal etc recess is also attached.
Thanks in anticipation, any thoughts gratefully received,
Doug
Yes it is possible to weld up the hole and then have the whole lot machined to replicate the later bell housings. There is a post somewhere on this site from someone who has done this.
I’m also wondering if a transition plate, about 3/8 inch thick could be made up and inserted between the box and bell housing This would centralise the box, and hold in the bearing and oil seal. (It would need an extension on it for the seal).
The only question with the latter method would be, Is the input shaft long enough to cope with being mounted 3/8 inch further back?
I measured the 2 different boxes up. The input shafts are the same length from the front face of the box. The bell housings were within 1/4 inch, the same depth.
The bolting arrangements on the gearboxes are the same, but the bolts were slightly larger diameter and a different thread on the later box.