Obviously, sleeves installed in calipers and master cylinders must be honed. The question is, does the shop that’s installing the sleeves hone them? Or do they leave that job for the installer?
I suppose it’s not difficult to do.
There needs to be some run out to make sure the pads retract properly, so don’t expect none. You should have less than 5 thou or so though.
A few issues with this. The calipers are very shallow, the masters have diameters so small that obtaining hones of this size is problematical. Also, the series I calipers have the seals opposite of normal fashion and outside diameter surfaces are also critical and can’t be honed. Add to this is the concept that you need to finish a job you paid to have complete (the calipers and masters come assembled after redo). ALL the parts I had done except for the clutch master were completely useless and fouled up. A series I brake master depends on a spring return, so if the seals are wrong, the I.D. wrong or the springs not assembled correctly it won’t return and refill after a stroke. The new stuff I got from Terry’s and SNG all worked just fine, along with CuNi lines, which are “the bomb”. The first set of normal brake line from a US manufacturer were OK, but far from great - some bad flares. The “copper” lines were from an Austin Healy guy, I’m sure the regulars have the same stuff.
I’d like to add another point on this caliper topic. If you have them resleeved and rebuilt ask if the shop can or will address the seats that the flares seat upon. I’m confident a “real” shop will do this, but sadly you never know. If you use stainless lines (I wouldn’t) they are stiff and need a very good surface to seal. Even regular line is pretty stiff and if the flares on your line are the least bit off they won’t seal at torques you can apply without stripping.
As to the series I power brakes not being up to snuff, mine seems just fine at normal street driving. Since so many road testers seemed to complain about them and Jaguar redid them, maybe at spirited use they aren’t so hot. My experience is they work just fine (granted with the bigger front calipers). I’d guess I must have the booster adjusted properly as well - by luck as much as anything.
Apples and oranges but: On my S2 I always had a pedal that exhibits a slight pump up. As if it had air some where in the lines. Like Erica, my Mightyvac did the job, but air was leaking in around the bleeder threads. Tried bicycle tube pressure bleed. No change in pedal.
Years later I had a leaking master cylinder that ruined my carpet. Replaced the MC, pedal pump up “problem” solved. FWIW, I suspect the MC was bad for a looong time. Not sure this is relevant to this 3.8 issue.
No Mitch, my brake travel is fine/normal. The commentary I attached from the e type uk site suggests that there might be two piston sizes? Just spit balling. Will post a picture - mine are the early type - mounted on aluminium adaptors. Paul
Forgot to mention that my car has Series 2 e type 1/2 inch disc rotors in lieu of the 3/8 inch originals. That’s not the problem is it Mitch??? Paul
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the picture. I have the same set up w/the aluminum brackets. I noticed that my re-sleeved front master, that was assembled by the rebuilder, is leaking (so much for the life time guarantee…) so I’ll pull it and see what else might be wrong inside. Since I had the same set prior to having the masters re-sleeved and pedal travel wasn’t an issue, I think it has to be the master cylinder. I’ll post my findings when I sort it out.
Typically the Wilwood brakes used are the Dynalites. They come in 3 piston sizes 1.38, 1.62, 1.75., and that is times 4 pistons. If you use anything but the 1.38" you will have a long pedal.
Hi Terry,
Thanks for the info. I suspect I have the 1.75” pistons but I didn’t measure them when I put it together many years ago. The problem surfaced after I had the masters re-sleeved. I’ve recently noticed the the front master is leaking so I’ll open it up and see what’s going on. Thanks again.
Sorry Mitchell I went back and checked my old notes - the 1.38 are too small - you need the 1.625 pistons - they have a total square piston area (4 pistons) of 8.23 whereas the stock Dunlops or Girlings are 7.1 sq inches, so the 1.625 pistons are the closest you can get to stock. The pedal will be a bit longer- 15 % longer, and a bit softer than stock due to increased mechanical advantage.
Mitchell, if indeed your pedal travel was okay when you originally had the current Wilwood calibers and pre sleeved M/Cs, and the excessive pedal travel only occurred after you had the M/Cs sleeved, then if would seem logical to me that it was indeed the result of the sleeved M/Cs or the installation of them. The installation issue would almost certainly be air in the system, which I believe you checked. If so, that leaves the resleeved MC’s. Is there a chance they resleeved it to a smaller bore? And if I remember, only one MC travels too far. Did they botch or mix up one of them?
Tom
Hi Tom,
Yeah, the fact that it’s leaking fluid past the seal leads me to believe there is something wrong inside. Will open up this week and check. Thanks/Mitch