I did not know that. Can you show an example of the numbers and location, please?
Thanks,
Kevin
Exactly how I do it, Roger, a drop and spread it around, and no torque spec, there wouldn’t be with the unsupported design of the covers.
For straightening the stud, perhaps put a 1/4" deep well socket with extension over it and a gentle bending force, it shouldn’t take much.
1 Like
Interesting. I see nothing like that on my S1 XJ engine. Thanks for the info, though.
Thanks Rob.
I will have a look this afternoon.
I did not notice any bend in the studs when refitting them, but I was not looking for it.
Yesterday, when confused because the cam covers both appeared too short, it looked like mms, but it could be mils.
I am reusing the old washers, but have annealed them so they should seal. I will just nip them up, not too tight, with a little sealer on both gasket faces and possibly a little on the washers too.
Thanks
Dave
Here ya go. When they left the factory, the front cover, the main bearing caps and the block were all stamped with a three letter code that identifies them as a set. In the case of the engine in the photos, this code was BSD. The block is stamped adjacent to each main bearing journal BSD 1, BSD 2 through BSD 7, as are the main bearing caps. The front cover is stamped near the top left corner.
1 Like
I just encountered the fact that my C12500 head from 3.4 / 1958 accepts dowel studs in all 4 symmetrical positions (L/R, intake/exhaust). This gives a temptation of using one more dowel stud, on opposite end (if I had one more). Update: I see now that deck has only single counterbore recess in the deck for a dowel, so …
On the other end - I think I will use 2 bolts (allen?) (instead of smaller vertical studs) to bolt cylinder head to front cover. This would allow (I guess) to remove the cover with cyl head still on the block, if chain slides or tensioner inspection is required. What do You think ?
