I can think of a few things to share with you:
Think about whether you want to do tappet hold down kits. I do them on intake and exhaust, but others don’t believe in them or just do the exhaust side. To me, it’s cheap insurance.
Of course, with the head off, you will have a good look at the water passages and will have to decide if it’s bad enough to need welding. I recently tore down a Mk10 engine that had so much internal corrosion that I scrapped both the head and the block. It was a Florida car, and must never have seen antifreeze. Hopefully, you can get by with yours.
Be sure to inspect the seating surfaces for the oil-feed pipes and the pipes themselves. The banjo fittings often have indentations or irregularities, and it can cause a chronic leak that hard to fix. Be sure you use new crush washers - some are using a new coated style from SNG, but I haven’t tried them yet.
If you want to save your back, you can knock the center out of a couple of old spark plugs and weld on a ring for lifting. A cherry picker saves the old back as well as obviates the dropped part hitting the fender. The important word here is lifting, not forcefully trying to pull the head. It has to be loose. I also will install a head this way if I’m by myself. It allows you to be very controlled.