'38 Manette Installation

(Rob Reilly) #1

Pulled out my manette to fix the outer trim ring which was broken at all three screw holes and poorly glued by a PO.
I can see this was the reason they made them thicker later on, too thin and the tapered flat head screw breaks it there.
Used JB Weld 2-part epoxy, the really strong gray stuff, seems to be good now. Careful not to overtighten the screws.

Went to install it, got the wiring in and the outer tube nubs started in the stator tube slot, so it does not rotate, inserted a couple more inches, but it stopped about 1 inch short, won’t go in that last inch, and I hear and feel a clunking noise in the scuttle region.
I think it must be something to do with the manual advance mechanism, but I tried moving the lever and steering wheel and it made no difference.

I looked down the stator tube but didn’t see anything wrong.
Tried looking in the manette tube and there seems to be something up in there but can’t see because the wiring is in the way.
Is it a tube connected to the advance lever?
Does it have to engage another tube inside the stator tube?
I don’t see one in there.
Must be a trick I don’t know about?


(peter balls) #2

Yes Rob the advance / retard lever has a short tube with dimples that slides in a longer tube
with a slot the same as the outer tubes. The inner longer tube is connected to the advance lever.
Peter B


(Rob Reilly) #3

Thanks, Peter, I thought it would be something like that.
So I suppose I have to turn the inner longer tube to get it lined up with the inner manette tube.
Trouble is I have nothing at the front end but an L shaped bracket.
Should there be something sticking out the front end for a cable or something to attach to? Looks like I am missing all that.


(peter balls) #4

Rob , do you have the inner / outer cable connected to the distributor?
The inner advance tube floats free , fore and aft, inside the stator tube, so the purpose of the L bracket
is twofold , to contain the tube and the attached lever (shown).and , of course, to hold the stator
tube . The prolem with the tubes, no doubt allready posted, is the slot at its juncture tends to split. This results in poor / non operation of the controls, in the case of the manette, radial movement when operating the trafficator, ( lovely word dont you know, you can hear it rolling of the the tongue
of the Pathe News voice over chap).
My solution is to siver solder the tubes together and settle for a fixed steering wheel position.
The cable to the distributor has a stiff wire inner and flexible outer, The flexible outer can result in lost
movement so I change to a length of 3 1/6" brake pipe.
Peter B


(Ed Nantes) #5

Yes the tube does split at the end of the slot. Simple problem, the slot was cut witha horizontal mill , a bit like a circular saw. But this leaves sharp corners on the end of the slot.
Solution , use a1/8" slot dril / or end mill to cut the end ofthe slot to a ssemicircle. No corners t fracture. As Mr DeHavilland dscovered on Comet airliner windows.
The reality in the 21 st century sthat the adv/ ret is not needed and the leversould just be ocked into a convenient position.


(Rob Reilly) #6

Ok thanks Peter and Ed. I understand now. I have the larger bracket on the right in Peter’s photo but am missing the smaller clamp on the left, and the inner tube does not protrude to clamp it to anyway. Can’t even see it with a mirror. Nothing to connect to on the distributor anyway so I’m not going to lose any sleep over it, just want to get this manette back in place. Will fiddle with it tomorrow, dealing with a dead critter in a furnace today.


(David) #7

Couple of photos Rob of the two “end” brackets and how they locate together:

And a photo of the “slot” Ed mentioned. My manette tube has broken, so I’m in the process of trying to find the correct size tubes to locate within each other and fit down the steering wheel shaft.


(peter balls) #8

Quite agree Ed, unless of course one needs to retard the ign to “fire up by hand cranking”,
to use a term!.
Peter B