Just popped them on for the picture, fitted a treat, manifold is still oily but in very good condition.
The carb, is clean,and also looks in very good condition. Looks like I will be getting the gasket paper out, again.
Here are some more photos of the manifold, very interesting,with a very strange device underneath, which I can’t work out just yet, but I can always ask,
It looks like it’s some kind of fuel squirter, it has a regulator of sorts on it, and very small injector type ends going into each of the 3way manifolds. BIZZARE.
Thanks
Rob
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
22
OK, I think you need to run that Scimitar tank stuff just on principle.
Possibly a manifold heater and the pipework for a cold start injection system - which is basically how fuel was added into the manifold on early sedans with the hisser starting carb and/or automatic enrichment device (AED).
Pat O’Brien saw several tank engines snap their cranks due to sudden shock loadings that you won’t get in watercraft during normal use. They carried on running as 2.1L 3-cylinder engines, albeit they no longer moved the vehicle. Once switched off, however, they could never be restarted as the starter turned the rear cylinders without moving the cam drive…
I use Forté Oil System Flush in every engine I service.
Just add it to the engine oil, let her warm up idling, turn the engine off and let it sit overnight.
Next morning, again let it warm up idling, turn it off and drain the oil / dissolved crud completely.
Beware! It comes out like water!
You could fill her with cheap 20W50 diesel engine oil (more cleaning additives) for the first few runs and then swap the oil for the good stuff.
Looks exactly like the cold start injectors (- normally, not 2) and create a very fine mist by swirling the fuel and then blasting it out through the fine hole. Interesting that it’s manual!
Clean the sump and brake cleaner for the rest. Will give you clean oil for the first few hours.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
26
Not completely my idea. Read of it somewhere. I made a modification that never got tuned in. Test vehicles were the 69 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser ad the 79 IHC Scout II.
Drilled two 1/4" or 3/8 " holes in the lid. The lids are well sealed with a rubber gasket. Inserted two pipes and soldered them in place. One short and one almost all the way to the bottom. One to atmosphere and one to a vacuum port. Probably used manifold vacuum as opposed to poret vacuum.
Pulled in good volumn of liquid at high vacuum
. At idle. Opposite of the desired.
I added a W/S pump nd a micro switch at the throttle. Shoot in a blast of liquid on acceleration That is where it is best needed. Leary of hydrolock.This phase never got tuned.
I used a mix of denatured alcohol and water.
Way back in my college years an acquaintance used one in hs very hotted up 41 ford convertible Alas, his GF drove it and neglected to tank up the water tank. Bad detonation cooked the engine…
He got another car. I think he kept the GF!!!
A mechanic friend of mine tells the story of his grandfather who raced boats way back, and from what he told me his grandfather would open a stopcock when the engine was flat out and water would enter the engine through the carbs (as I’m thinking about it now, was it the inlet manifold? Not sure) giving extra power. I guess it’s to do with the coefficient of expansion?
So from my HMVF ( historic military vehicle forum) which I’ve been using for info this was the most definitive answer,
Members
25
850 posts
Location: Ayrshire, Scotland. previously Suffolk
Posted Saturday at 09:25 AM
I agree with John. The small pipes are for injecting a spray of petrol into each port for very cold weather starting. Just blank them off.
So there you are, that’s what they are, and I shall be blanking them off.
Not a lot happened with the engine, good weather here at the moment and the Euros are on, really hot in the workshop as well.
Cheers
you’re going to use a tank setup in a Marine environment, so why not keep the cold start device? Unless you’re using the boat at +70F only, you’ll need a cold start device anyhow.
My Lt1 has water in the port just behind the throttle butterfly. Warm air for better drivability/ some disconnect for a cool more dense mixture and more power/ I left mine intact. More than enough power for my needs. 260 HP but tuned for torque
Pulls the 2.88 Rear at .70 OD with alacrity About 2000 Rpm is 80 MPH . No need to shift down to pass, just mash the pedal.
Just looking at the mass air flow sensor, that I don’t have, to my reckoning it’s part number is,
EAC 3821
Are these a, very rare?
b, do they have to be exact to the system I have or are there some crossovers that can be used?
c, is there another ( not jaguar) part that can be used?
There doesn’t seem to be many spares, kicking about for sale, I’m no where near, fitting the EFI to engine, would just like to have all parts, whilst re designing it all to fit boat.
Thanks
Rob
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
38
You could buy an entire XJ6 for not too much money, expecially a crashed or rusty one.
The ignition system is basically the same as the Bosch L Jetronic. I am not aware of the differences if there are any but some items must be engine specific.
The AFM (air flow meter) is not worth much if anything at all. I have one and dread selling it. You will also need an ECU? I recommend you go on facebook and find people who scrap and race them.
