Update: the oil level is almost an inch above the top of the hatched area on the stick, and it reeks of gas. Here is my thought: I had problems with the AED back in October. It ran badly and with sooty plugs. Thought I had sorted the manual cut off switch, but the 5-6 short drives obviously sent a lot of petrol down to the sump. Not nice for the cylinders!
And the litre, at least, of gas in the oil made the total volume so large that the pump could´t give more than 20psi.
I feel so sorry for the engine.
Will drain it all tomorrow and change the filter of course. Pity about oil and filter which were changed on Oct 4th
I moved my last reply, to my owm thread, as there are many more readers of the saloon forum than the engine forum. Did this cause I wanted to share my bad experience with more owners of cars with the AED (automatic enrichment device/choke).
Ouch, check the oil/petrol coming out of the sump for debris/bearing material, with that much petrol in the oil its’ lubricity will have been compromised I feel
The petrol will have washed the oil off the cylinder walls, which won’t have done any good to the surface. You may also have dissolved some of the sludge in the crank and rest of the oil passages.
The OP drop won’t have been from the volume in the sump, but rather from the decreased viscosity.
Change the oil and the filter, and if it’s the old style can filter, also change the o-ring and bolt seal, as the petrol may have damaged them.
Unless you’re absolutely certain that the root cause was the hisser, have a good look at the jet tubes, needles and float chambers too.
There’s not much you can do about the cylinder wear - if you’re lucky it won’t have affected compression much.
I use the cigarette lighter as my manual otter switch which is right at eye level and easy to turn on and off. I might use a LARGE magnet in the drained oil to see if there is any damage. A magnetic oil plug might be good for all of us, just in case. I have run a bunch of diesel for several minutes in a MX 10 to clean out the sludge with great results, it came out extremely black, gas is a bit more abrasive on the cylinder walls.
I would like to thank everyone for lots of good suggestions. I believe that I have been very lucky, sofar at least.
I changed the oil and filter. It was like a cow pissing on the ground, and the container reeked of petrol.
I will change again this autumn after perhaps 20 half hour runs totalling perhaps 300 miles.
So after the oil change I drove it for an hour, and it appears very normal. I will put back the earlier op sender, which read 60 at cold and then came to the normal 20-40 span. The current one is very slow to react, when starting, and has a span of 15-35. I switched in December I think, during one of my visits to my summerhoue
In the S of Sweden. This was part of my fault finding.
And I will now change the starting procedure!!
I only use the starting carb minimally, Once I get going over 20 MPH I turn it off and avoid heavy acceleration until the temperature reaches about 70C. No need to flush the pistons with gas that they don’t need. I would say that once I am in third gear I don’t need it anymore and if I have to stop at a traffic signal I can push the lighter in, blip the throttle and it will kick back on and then once stopped I can maintain the idle with the throttle and turning it back off again. I hope that makes sense; its somewhat of a routine I do If I have to stop before the engine is warm. Involves left foot braking which I am not fond of and keeping the revs around 800 while waiting for the traffic signal to go green.
Minimal use same. I have fitted a switch under the dash and once through the first couple slow side roads and junctions after setting off from home, say 1 mile or less, it is switched off.
