John, Thanks. I should have done that 25 years ago. I will put it only summer to-do list.
John
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For what it’s worth, I priced it at $800.
CJ has offered at least 3 completely different gearboxes over the years, perhaps more. Each was offered a the “ultimate” 5-speed upgrade, but each had its own problems. Not sure what, if anything, they are offering now.
These days they install the Broadsport gearboxes.
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Just laid my hands upon the one that @Craig_Balzer has, and at least from the outside, it’s a nice looking unit.
This is quoted from the Guy Broad spec sheet that came with the 5-speed:
“Special gearbox case cast for Broadsport to fit standard Jaguar bellhousing bolt pattern (no adaptor plate necessary). The world renowned MT75 gearset as used in Ford Cosworth engineered cars, very strong and with many years of development to produce one of the most durable and dependable transmission kits used,
All linkage, mountings and ancillary parts developed by Broadsport over 18 months research.
Gearboxes are NEW and not reconditioned, tested under load and only released when all inspections passed. ID tags on all bearboxes for tracing under ISO 9002 guidelines.”
{Bolded word is as per their spec sheet.}
Take that for what it’s worth.
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CJ doesn’t list it on their website. I’m curious what they sell it for.
–Drew
They might not be eager to sell them to the public vs installing them for people. Several people have complained about difficulties fitting the box themselves, while others breezed through it.
I think that may be the case. I’ve never seen them mentioned on the CJ site or blog, but I saw Guy Broad post something about their 5-speeds on their Instagram feed, and Dan Mooney responded with something like “Keep them coming!”
JT Joey,installed a Broadsport in his coupe,did a write up on the Uk Etype site,he is very happy with the results,from what I remember,a cross member had to be modified and the tunnel massaged slightly.
Regards Gerry 62 Ots Ontario Canada
John, Wow. My 3.07 differential only cost me $700.
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I went to 3.07 route also and can say I’m happy. However, I have had little luck finding correct speedometer. Anyone have another solution?
Yes, this worked, and continues to work, for me:
Simple to install, you keep the original speedometer stock.
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I have had the Broadsport box for a few years now and am very happy with it in my SWB series 2. I did make the mistake of not modifying the cross member, I was determined to make it fit without cutting and welding, too much trial and error to get it right. The reverse light switch sat too high and fouled the shifter so I removed it and used the far-right toggle switch to activate the reverse light. Box is smooth and quiet and dropped RPMs by 1000 at 80 MPH. Kept the 3:54 for quick acceleration.
Glenn
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Quite Interesting how here there are so many differing views of gbox vs diff change ….the 3.54 diff will give very fast acceleration but earlier gear changes than the taller diffs …… how much of those earlier gear changes reduce the overall acceleration to 60 mph ( in terms of seconds) I wonder …anyone got any figures on that?
IIRC, I’ve heard it adds about 0.5 second to the 0-60 MPH time. It didn’t matter much to me because I spend a lot more time behind the wheel at highway speeds than I do in maximum acceleration runs. I never missed that 0.5 second.
EDIT:
I’ve also read (years ago, forget where) the 3.54 rear end was standard in U. S. delivery cars to better compete with domestic performance cars in raw acceleration and cater to the U. S. driver’s fascination with 0-60 times.
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Very difficult to drive these cars at speed today, and I much prefer using small roads than highways to enjoy the E-Type.
3.31, as installed in the early cars (especially to have lower ratios with the 2-3-4 gears of the Moss box) is a good compromise for spirited driving
Or how many E-type owners regularly do 0-60 sprints with their right foot buried in the firewall, and the engine revving to redline?
I’ve said this before, but I don’t think most E-type owners would ever miss the extra acceleration provided by “shorter” gears by just pushing the pedal on the right a little harder.
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[quote=“John_Walker, post:36, topic:429884”]
I never missed that 0.5 second
Guess you don’t want to race for pink slips then?? 
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This really is the most important topic…simply put…to have the best of both worlds acceleration AND top speed the E desperately needs a 5 speed…period. This can be done in the long wheel base (2+2) with the laycock compact A…but will not fit the short wheel base (6 cylinder convertible & coupe) (all v-12’s are 2+2’s be it coupe or convertible AND the Laycock compact A fits)(you have to find one…one on ebay now)
Since, one does not have a completely viable 5 speed for the short wheel base (tho…there are options)(Paul C. in Florida made the “JT5”…and the JT5 is everything…but no longer available). So, take your chances with one of the available choices…
OR OR give up acceleration and change the rear end ratio (from 3.54 to 3.31 or 3.21 or say 3.07 or 2.88…a personal choice…trading acceleration for top end…a personal choice.
David (here) told me that if the straight 6 engine is well “sorted” then running “at red line” is fine…and it is…just roar down the interstate. AND I SPUN THE CENTER BEARING SHELL WITH 3.31. Why, well my engine was not well sorted…AND the center bearing shell is prone to being starved of oil. RUINED THE CRANK. Now the whole…and I mean whole engine has to be…has to…pulled and torn down to fix (change) the crank.
OR OR slow down and get passed…because with 3.54 EVERYONE WILL PASS YOU…and stare at you…I imagine laughing. (can not even keep up with traffic) may as well drive my SPITFIRE
I AM NOT…NOT GOING TO DRIVE AN XKE. AND AND NOT BE ABLE TO KEEP UP WITH TRAFFIC…I WILL NOT
You choose…both acceleration and top end = 5 speed Or trade acceleration for top end=3.31 (faster) 3.21 (faster yet) 3.07 (faster yet) 2.88 (fastest/cheapest)
OR leave it in the garage…THEN YOU DO NOT GET CAR JACKED…it is art anyway…who says it has to run …at all??
Mitch and Vicki.
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