6.0L Identification & Parts Needed / 5.3L Parts Available

Hi all - I’ve been lurking jag-lovers (and other forums with information on the 5.3 & 6.0 V12s) for a long time.

Earlier this month I took the plunge and bought a pair of Jaguar V12s in a package deal. One is a 1989 5.3L (engine number 8S61922SA) out of an XJS (VIN SAJNA5844KC154124). The other is a 6.0L (engine number 8C13879SA) out of an XJ12, but I don’t know the exact model year.

I also have a 4-speed from VIN SAJMX1345…(the VIN sticker is scratched up and hard to read) which is from yet another car.

Can anyone shed light on the specific model year of the 6.0L, based on the engine number?
It has the Marelli ‘gutless’ distributor (so it’s not the final hoo-ray with the Nippon distributor-less system. I haven’t opened it up yet to see if it has the cast or forged crank, but my understanding is that the 6.0L oscillated between cast and forged in the final few years for the US market. Any other identification tips would be welcome.

My plans are to get the 6.0L up and running and mate it to the 4-speed. I don’t own a Jaguar vehicle, so I’m not sure what the plan is once the engine and transmission are functional. (I’ve seen lots of great projects with V12 swaps here and elsewhere.) Right now the Electromotive TEC gt200 is the leading candidate for the ECM and the PCS Simple Shift for the TCU. (MegaSquirt and the Bosch MS 6.1 ECU are darkhorse candidates in the ECU race, also.) I’ll be going distributor-less and transitioning to high impedance Bosch EV6 injectors that are drop-in replacements to the OE units.

One question that presented itself early on is: What type of fittings attach to the fuel lines? It looks like a hybrid -AN fitting and GM push-to-connect fitting. Can the OE lines be replaces up to the rail with something more readily available in the aftermarket?

I have a small list of parts that I need. I’ll post these to the WTB forum shortly, but since this is V12 specific, I thought I’d post them here, too.

  • Full-flow oil filter housing (it was missing from the motor when I got it.) (Jaguar Part Number EBC8361 is the entire assembly; also need Outlet Elbow EAC6789.)
  • Water pump - The pump on the 6L motor was cracked like water froze inside of it, or the pulley got hit really hard from the front left corner of the car. Anyway, I need a replacement pump (Jaguar Part Number JLM10648) and gasket set.
  • Camshaft oil feed lines (Jaguar Part Number EBC8755), banjo bolts, and banjo adapter stand (Jagur Part Number C42072). I have 2 oil feed lines for a 5.3L, but none for the 6.0L. (The Rob Beere replacement looks great, but is a little steep for a salvage motor.) I need all 4 banjo bolts (one for the engine block, one to the tower, and two for the cam housings), the formed lines (EBC8755), and the casting (C42072) that mounts to the cylinder block top (‘valley’) cover.
  • Coolant balance tube across the front of the engine - the one on the engine was rusted through in a couple of spots.
  • The cast aluminum dust cover (access plate) between the engine and the transmission.

The 5.3L suffered the all-to-common injector fire, but it seems like it was caught fairly quickly. The distributor is toast, the intake manifolds, air injection, and fuel injection rails, and associated parts are gone as is the water pump. It has an air injection pump and most other brackets, but no other accessories. I’ll be selling it as-is or parting it out (or sending it to the scrap heap) depending on who needs what.
I’ll try to post a picture in the next few days.

Off the top of my head, I have a spare cam oil feed line for the 5.3; a spare valley cover that is painted black; the air injection rails, pump and line from the 6.0.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post. Look forward to learning from everyone.

  • Drew

Hi Drew
Are you in the uk? If so,I have the transmission/ bell housing casting off a 6.0 Litre engine,you can have for the cost of postage. I don’t need it. It came off an engine I stripped for Neville Swales for his XJ13 reps
Best Regards
Nigel Boycott

Hello and Happy Holidays, Nigel -
Thank you for the very kind offer.

I am actually located in Richmond, Virginia in the US. However, the bell housing may still be of interest to me. The bell housing is for a manual transmission? If so, do you know what manual transmission it mates with?

Thank you again for the kind offer. Look forward to discussing further.

  • Drew

Hi Drew
It’s the aluminium dust cover I have. As I said, It came off a six litre engine.im pretty sure the gearbox was an Auto. I’m not at work this week when I get back I’ll send you a picture of it.
Best Regards

Oh, fantastic! That’s small (and obscure) enough that I’d be happy to pay the postage to get it across the pond.

When you return to work next week and have time to send the picture (no hurry, of course), you can email me directly at fowlparts@gmail.com.

Appreciate the help!

  • Drew

Ok Drew I’ll send you the pics.
Best Regards

You can contact Jaguar Heritage trust and they can give you the information on the engine. I have done this with both a 6 liter V12 and a 3.4 liter XK engine.


The oil feed lines and banjo bolts you should be able to use them off the 5.3L.

Coolant xover pipe I would be looking for a stainless steel (I have one of these on my XJS bought off eBay) one or have one made from aluminium. The XJS one has a neck and filler cap the XJ12 doesn’t.

Water pump you can use the one off a 5.3L. Just be aware there are a couple of different versions of the pump, just get one off a late 5.3L

All of the ancillaries from the 5.3L will fit the 6.0L. There are some differences and your 5.3L is early 1989 and from the engine number is a rope seal and Lucas ignition. so block and crank are not interchangeable.

I’m in the process of putting together a 6.7L V12 built from a 6.0L The 6.0L engine came from the USA and when pulled down was in very poor condition, every single valve leaked and all but 1 valve had the stem worn elliptical and out of tolerance, the main and big end bearings were scored but the crank was good. So If i were you I would pull the 6.0L and check everything.

I have a MegaSquirt 2 installed into a Jaguar case ready to run the engine. I will be keeping the Marelli setup and have configured the MS2 for 2 low current ignition outputs to drive the Marelli (Bosch) ignition modules. This leaves me the ability to add knock sensing.

As your 6.0L is Marelli it will be pre 1994.

If you keep the 5.3L and are handy you could de-shroud the intake valve. I built myself a flow bench and spent a lot of time flowing the 6.0L head, and contrary to popular opinion the recessed exhaust valve is NOT the power limiting factor with the HE style heads, the exhaust valve flows enough @28"h2o to make 500hp.

The issues are:

Recessed Intake valve is one major issue, the intake valve is heavily shrouded until almost 50% lift.

The spark plug location is offset in the chamber, nothing much you can do about this, but de-shroud the plug noise.

more pics here

Thank you for the tip, Stephen. I’ve dropped them a note.
The parts section is interesting as well. If nothing else I can figure out the part numbers of the stuff I am trying to track down and/or find a new home for.

Do you still have your 6.0L V12? Has it been put in something or is that yet-to-be-determined?

  • Drew

Warren - Thank you for the insights, as well.

The oil feed lines and banjo bolts you should be able to use them off the 5.3L.

The bolts are certainly re-usable and the lines fit between the camshaft housings, but the line down to the engine block (behind the oil filter housing) does not fit on the 6.0L block. The squared off shape of the aft end of the block where the 4spd bellhousing bolts up prevents the oil line from fitting. I certainly thought about “adjusting” the line around this are, but ultimately the steel line would be too short for the oil inlet banjo fitting to reach the proper spot on the engine block.
It appears that I need oil feed pipe EBC8755 and the banjo adapter (stand) C42072. Conversely, the 2 oil feed pipes that I have are from the 5.3 XJS which could be EBC3513 or EAC3489.

Coolant xover pipe I would be looking for a stainless steel (I have one of these on my XJS bought off eBay) one or have one made from aluminium.

Glad to know that stainless and/or aluminum pieces exist. I’ll certainly keep my eye out for one. I considered making one out of copper plumbing fittings to avoid the carbon steel tube, if push-came-to-shove. (I may still look at how close I can get with slightly modified off the shelf copper fittings - but a purpose-made stainless pipe would be perfect.)

The motor that you’re build sounds like (and looks like) a work of art. I’m certainly envious!
Once I track down more of the parts that I need and feel confident that I’ll have everything I need to put the engine back together, I may well strip my 6.0 down completely and start working it over. Right now I’m sort-of in the fitment stages.

I have considered re-working the 5.3L heads for the 6.0L block. I can probably tackle the coarse grinding and then send the heads to a shop for the final passes. I was looking at a cross section drawing of the exhaust port in the ROM and was shocked how far it protruded into the exhaust port. I can see how cutting it back would free-up some power. This doesn’t cause any issue exhaust valve stability?

Now that I have some usable part numbers I’ll update my original posting.

I would not use copper for the water pipes as galvanic corrosion will be an issue and it’s the aluminium that will suffer.

My exhaust valve guides have been cut down to the port roof, I have also re-profiled the exhaust port bowl to remove the square edges. I have done all of the grinding on the heads but the planing and multi angle valve seats were done by a head shop. I’m not bolting the engine together Norman Lutz is doing this for me, he has also had the block bored and fitted the 96mm liners.

The 6.0 liter engine I bought was/is a 92 Jaguar crate engine. New from
Jaguar not previously used in a car. I put it into my 88 XJ-S coupe with
full sport suspension, Tremec five speed, and other upgrades. The body has
been fully restored. I am in the process of pulling the motor and
transmission back out of the car after mocking it up. I have to have the SS
headers modified slightly to clear the oil filter reroute plate.

Galvanic corrosion is not a problem if the pipes are electrically isolated from the engine by being rubber-mounted. For the same reason, a brass radiator is not an issue; it’s mounted in rubber and connected only with rubber hoses.

Warren - I had a look at your blog a week or two back. I saw that you’re going to run the X-Type (Denso/Ford) 12-hole injectors. Are the injectors that you’ve chosen part numbers 1X43-AB / 55212243?

I asked the guys at Five-O Motorsports what they recommended as a hi-impedance replacement to the stock (EBC2409/ Bosch 0280155007) injectors and they recommended the Bosch P/N 0280156024 (aka “Blue Knight”) injector. {They’re replacements to the Volvo C/S/V-70 series of car, apparently. They’re also a common upgrade on big block Chevys. https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/volvo-94545550-s90-v70-s70-c70-l5-b5254s-b6304s2}

Does the OE fuel rail and the fuel injector clips fit-up to these injectors without modification? (I’ve seen various places where guys claim the clips aren’t required because the injectors are restrained between the intake manifold and the fuel rail, which in-turn are bolted together. I don’t mind the “belt and suspenders” approach to retaining the injector with redundancy, though.)

The X-Type injectors appear to be a bit less expensive than the Bosch Blue Knights, and the 12-hole design is certainly well proven. I’m curious how you arrived at your selection.
Also, what rail pressure are you going to run? 3-bar? 3.5-bar?


Hi Drew

I bought the X Type injectors because they were reasonably priced and the guy did 2 sets of 6 flow matched. Yes they are 1X43-AB.

I do not know what rail pressure I will run. Once I have it running I will use a wide band O2 and experiment with fueling and ignition.

I have re-configured the MS2 for 2 low current ignition outputs to drive the Marelli (Bosch) ignition modules. These will use 2 wires that currently go to the injector resistor box. This also frees up 1 I/O to use as a knock sensor input, as I have a Bosch knock sensor that came with the MS job lot I bought, and lucky for me it was off a Nissan Patrol with similar bore as my 6.7L will have, so I can use the signal conditioner that came with it.

My MS2 does not have flyback on the injector drivers so the high resistance injectors saved more hardware changes on the MS2 PCB.

The Denso fit the 6.0L injector rail, the clips do not fit and the Desno are about 10mm shorter than the V12 injectors, so either make top hats or remove the 10mm spacer on the injector rail. I made a test top hat that worked, but I might remove the spacer under the mount. I’ll wail until I get the engine back before making that decision, because the throttle capstan also attaches to the intake manifolds on the same studs as the injector rail.

The clips are really only there to hold the injectors in the rail for assembly, would the clips hold the injector under 3 bar of fuel pressure maybe maybe not, but I would not like to count on them. As you said the rail is bolted down and holds the injectors pretty firmly.

Hi All - It’s been a long while since I posted any sort of update, so I figured now was as good a time as any.

First, thanks to those of you that have helped with technical questions and parts along the way.
Nigel became my hook-up for a few parts that were more easily sourced from the UK than the US.
Chad, who originally sold me the engines, has passed on a few additional parts he’s found since I originally picked up the engines. Nice to be reminded of the good folks in the car community.

To follow-up on a few topics from my first posting:
The 6.0L that I’m working on is from an XJ12, VIN SAJMX1340RC703855, and it does have a forged crank.

Here’s a picture shortly after I got the engine and transmission bolted together for the first time (March 2018).

Tracking down a mating electrical connector for the Jaguar-spec 4L80E was a bit of a trick, but the mission is accomplished. The pin-out is another matter. The Jaguar transmission (as documented several other places) uses a unique cast housing. It also uses an electrical connector that is very different than the familiar GM transmission connectors. The OE Jaguar connector appears to be most similar a Deutsch Autosport, Eaton Aerospace, or Tyco Size 16, 14-pin connector. (The Jaguar connector only has 12 positions populated.)

As for pinout, the pins (1 through 14, skipping # 12 and #14) appear to match 1-for-1 with the MY1991 & MY1992 GM 4L80E wiring harness. I can provide additional details/schematics/etc if anyone needs them.

If anyone has a 1994-1996 (1997?) Jaguar 4L80E transmission harness floating around that they don’t need, drop me a note. I have what I need to get by, but a more complete harness can only help by reducing the number of spliced wires.

As for my questions about the fuel rail connectors, I think I have found a tidy solution. Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies offers 3 sizes of Metric O-Ring Step Seat fittings to 6AN fittings. I’m going to order the M14x1.5mm and M16x1.5mm fittings in the coming weeks and see if they do the trick. If they don’t work, I’ll probably resort to metric banjo fittings, which are significantly more expensive and require face-sealing to surfaces that were never never designed to be sealed to or cutting the hose and crimp collar off the OE lines and cobbling a more readily available fitting (male NPT, SECO 7, etc) onto it.
(Thanks to Sam in DC for the tip on the banjo fitting options.)

Also on the fuel rail: I picked new injectors. Rather than going with the obscure and expensive Bosch units I mentioned originally, I went with the ubiquitous Siemens 1F1E-D4B injector used on the Ford/Mazda 3.0L V6. I paid for a ‘freshened’ and flow matched set of 12, but the junk yard is also a very reliable source for these units. The great news is that they fit between the intake manifolds and the fuel rail correctly; the injector retainer clip fits them perfectly; and at 3.0-bar they should flow adequately.
The picture below shows 2 junkyard injectors installed in an un-cleaned manifold. (Pardon my mess.)

Warren, I think these are similar to what you’re running, without the need to shorten the manifold-to-rail stack by 10mm. I got the right electrical connectors from MoTec USA / Mil Spec Wiring.

I eventually tracked down a full-flow oil filter head. (I even got a spare! When it rains, it pours.) I had some o-ring barb to 12AN fittings made at a local machine shop so that I can plumb the filter head to a cooler, eventually. (During initial no-load running I’ll just connect the filter head outlet back to the return port.) I don’t have the OE bracket that goes over the stud between the fittings, so I’m having a “bowie bracket” made that will slide into the groove just below the hex on the AN fittings. (For anyone that’s curious, the parts I had machined is the piece installed into the aluminum casting, and just below the hex. You can just make out the silver solder that holds the AN fittings at the o-ring barb piece together.)

OH! In case anyone is wondering how to get the the oddball (British Standard Whitworth) crankshaft/balancer bolt out without resorting to a pipe wrench, Northern Tool sells a black oxide (impact-grade) “Klutch” brand 33mm socket (Item 41135). (I’m pretty sure that 33mm is a non-standard metric bolt size, so this find was an absolute life saver.) The BSW bolt has a slight draft to the hex, so some care must be taken when using the magical 33mm socket, but overall it’s a snap compared to the alternatives.

I haven’t tackled the water rails, other than to start cleaning them up. However, if anyone needs to eliminate the coolant or large diameter coolant sensor/switch (used on the 5.3L & 6.0L), the threads are 5/8-18 (or 5/8 UNF). You can probably track down a bolt this size, but it you want something a little more purposeful, my friends at Pegasus have a blue anodized temp port plug for the job. It doesn’t come with crush washers, so order up some 16mm sealing washers to go with it.

The elimination of the distributor is complete, and an OE distributor-less top cover (NAC1213AA) and OE Ford style coil packs have been installed.

(Eagle-eyed viewers will notice that the stickers on the two Delphi coils were installed opposite one-another. Just keeps things interesting…)

Does anyone have details on the OE plug wire routing for the Nippondenso ignition / Zytec EFI? I think I have it figured out, but it’s always nice to have something to reference.

The most likely solution for driving the coils and injectors is (still) the Electromotive TECgt200 EFI system. It’s basic, but adequate. The coils on the engine are inherently wasted spark units (double-ended coils), so the EFI is running the coils like a sequentially fired V6. The odd part is that the injectors are also batch fired - IE: 2 injectors are squirted at the same time. One injector will feed an open intake valve, and the other sprays on the back of a closed valve above a cylinder on power stroke. If this seems extremely dumb, the original Lucas and Magnetti systems did the exact same thing. How can you tell? There was no cam position system until the very last iteration of EFI. (The carbon build-up on the back side of the valves was indicative, too.) If anyone wants to discuss pros and cons of various EFI systems for this project, let me know!

On a related topic, I need to get a trigger wheel machined for this engine. It will replace the 3-toothed OE wheel on the harmonic balancer. Here’s a screen shot of how I think it will look. (The crank position system will be in the original location and 6 o’clock on the timing chain cover.)

Can anyone recommend a machine shop that will work from an emailed print? The online machine shops want about $500 to make a single copy of this part. Yikes!

I hope this information is helpful or at least amusing to those of you out there in Jaguar V12 land. Thanks again for the input along the way, guys!


I had a guy local to me (in UK) cut the harmonic balancer into a 36-1 wheel for a very reasonable sum.

You could maybe consider CNC cutting the main pulley or the damper rather than fabbing up something from scratch.

kind regards

Offhand, I’m wondering if you could find a 36-tooth sprocket from a motorcycle and grind off one tooth.

Alternatively, fabbing a flat piece of metal with one hole in the center, three holes around that, and then a circle of 36 holes, followed by machining off the outside down to the centerline of the 36 holes, wouldn’t seem that difficult to fab and shouldn’t cost that much. Your drawing includes a wider flange and timing belt-style teeth, which would be costly to fab.

Finally, similar toothed wheels are common these days, are they not? Maybe find one from some other type car?

It is, but oddly it’s a very common semi truck lug nut size!

Marek - Thank you for mentioning the machined damper ring or pulley. My original plan as to machine the OD of the harmonic balancer because is it simple and elegant. After consulting with the folks at Electromotive they advised against it for their system for 2 reasons:

  1. The outer ring of the harmonica balancer moves relative to the crankshaft (ever so slightly) at certain engine speeds to reduce torsional harmonics. When the teeth are cut into the outer ring, the ignition and fuel timing (more critically - the ignition timing) is off by however much the outer damper ring has moved ahead or behind the true position of the crankshaft. Also, because the harmonic balancer is a true torsional spring-mass-damper system on a constantly accelerating system, the velocity of the mass is (in theory) always oscillating relative to the actual crankshaft speed. I will admit: These variations may be well below a level that matters, but this was the input from the ECM manufacturer.
  2. The outer ring of these types of harmonic dampers have a tendency to migrate over time (especially 25 years after the date of manufacture), so the indicated timing marks may be off from the true position.

By attaching the new timing wheel to the center section of the harmonic damper, both potential problems are significantly reduced because the center of the hub is keyed directly to the crankshaft.
(To make sure that I wasn’t relying on the timing marks on the OD of the timing wheel, I found TDC of 1A independently through the spark plug port. I’m happy to report that the outer ring of my balancer seems to be very close to spot-on.)

The two pulleys do mount to the center section of the engine, so those could have worked, but machining away the flange only provides a narrow and shallow tooth which would be hard to get a sensor close to once the belts are installed. The toothed features in the edge of the pulley may not help belt life, either.
A third reason for creating a separate piece is evident in the kidney bean slots for the mounting bolts. In case I’ve messed something up along the way, I’ve given myself +/- 3 degrees of adjustment.

A reasonable person could argue that the slotted holes are the new Achilles Heel of my timing mechanism - and they may be right! The inner section of the balancer does have a hole for a roll pin. Currently the roll pin is removed from my balancer. Once I’m sure everything it timed properly, I may add a single hole to the timing wheel and pin it in place, again.

Overall, I like the idea of machining the teeth into an existing piece rather than creating a new one, so I’ll probably continue to evaluate this for awhile to come. (No wonder this project is approaching 2 years with no real end in sight.)

Thanks, Marek!

  • Drew