'65 MK2 EDIS Install Thread

Hi All,

I’m back again with another build thread. Last year a T5, this year it’s EDIS. I like to do these all in one place threads, hopefully to the benefit of some future enthusiast.

My car is a '65 Mk2 vintage racing inspired. It has a high compression 4.2 with 2x HD’8s. While my car runs very well and is great to drive, I’m always chasing improvements and I love the project. Ultimately EFI is my goal, but this is the first step. I currently have a 123/TUNE which has been great, but I’m intrigued by the idea of EDIS and all the reviews on the forums say it’s a game changer. So off we go.

The technology is well documented in many places, but the core idea is a toothed wheel spins on the crank which is read by a sensor, that sensor tells a module and ECU the position of the crank. The ECU has an ignition curve programmed in it and tells the module when to fire the coil. The coil is actually 3 coils, one for every two cylinders (it’s wasted spark). The benefits are no distributor, so more accurate timing, and because there’s an ECU and multiple coil it’s a more modern timing curve and powerful spark. This conversion is well documented on the UK forum where Ray L used to sell his kits. He also has posted a bunch of different timing curves to download and try from other users who have had their cars dyno tuned with EDIS. Pretty cool reference and I would not have done this without it!

Most people hide the EDIS components, but I like to show things off a bit. My idea is to mount the kit on the firewall. This means, the battery has to go to the trunk. I got a kit from Summit that came with the box, battery cable, etc. I also replaced my battery as it was over 3 years old and with the large box I could get a bigger battery. I actually did this months ago and have noticed only easier starting with the larger battery, no side effects (also better weight distribution!).

Next is to strip the front of the engine, and find TDC. One of the most important parts of the install is making sure the sensor and toothed wheel are paired at exactly TDC, otherwise the ECU will be off. This can be corrected by the computer a few degrees, but the mechanical install needs to be as close as possible. As you can see here, my timing point is at 2 oclock and paired with a slopped line of white paint. There are official notches on the bottom of the damper, but no marker. So I got some soft steel rod, rounded the bottom, and stuck in cyl 6 to find true TDC.

The method I found to give me the most confidence was, I made a sharpie mark on the oil pan in the exact middle, then used that to assess the notch on the damper. Turning the engine over and over, watching the rod stop at the top and go back down, I kept adjusting the sharpie mark until it was right in the middle of the highest point. Then made the mark in paint so it’s clear.

With that done, time to make a sensor bracket. This needs to hold the sensor within 1mm of the toothed wheel, at the perfect angle to read the spinning crank. I use 1/4" thick steel plate, with a 1" steel tube as the stand off. Here’s the piece that bolts to the timing cover.

Then I measured how long the tube needs to be, cut it to length, and made the second piece which will hold the sensor. I vice gripped the ring gear to the crank pulley to get the spacing and distancing right.

The sensor is mounted in a separate piece of steel, so I could move it around to the perfect spot. It’s also made in a way that I can use washers to get the gap between the sensor and wheel perfect. One big difference between my install and Ray’s kit was his uses a bold on wheel thats cut to be perfectly centered on the 4 bolts. You use extra long bolts with spacers to hold the wheel onto the crank and the crank onto the damper. I didn’t have the tools to make that wheel, so I thought I’d try using a ring type wheel, which I’ll weld onto the pulley.

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The challenge with welding the gear onto the pulley as you can imagine is it has to be perfectly centered or the ring will wobble, making it impossible to get a small enough gap to the sensor. This proved tough but not impossible. The first attempt was to lay the ring on top of the pulley and use the inner circumference to center it. You can see the sharpie mark, the single mark is where the sensor is. The sensor has to point to the 6th tooth counter clockwise from the gap (missing tooth) at exactly TDC.

I welded this on, and reinstalled. The ring wobbled about 1/16" which is too much. So cut it off and found a better way. I turned the gear over and laid the pulley on it face down, then used a caliper to center the pulley, by going around tooth by tooth and increasing the size of the caliper until it was even all the way around. Sadly I forgot to take a picture, but I welded it and retested. The wobble is almost imperceptible, maybe 1/64th-1/32nd which should be good enough for the sensor to get a good read. This wheel is a 5.75" OD from trigger-wheels in the UK, it fits my crank pulley perfectly.

Once I got that figured out, I made final measurements for the bracket and welded that too. Here it is painted and installed. You can see the mark is actual maybe 1 or 2* off the center of the sensor at TDC. I should be able to adjust for that in the ECU, but it’s very close! I’m hoping that this will work!


Now for the wiring. It’s actually pretty simple. The ECU is a MegaJolt/E from Auto sport labs, it’s designed to run EDIS. I bought a used EDIS6 module off ebay with the connecter (make you sure you get one with the connecter!). They are very expensive to buy new. I got a motorcraft coil, coil connector, crank sensor, and sensor connecter all from rock auto. I mounted the module and the coil on a bar that bolts across the firewall into the holes that used to hold the battery mount. I think it’d gonna look pretty slick with the coil wires coming off and down onto the motor. The wiring isn’t wrapped until I test the system. (I covered my firewall with heat shield so the interior doesn’t get so hot when I’m driving that’s why it’s all shiny :slight_smile: ).

Here’s the ECU, I stuck it underneath the glovebox, in front of my Painless fuse box. It weighs nothing and is held on with Velcro strips. You have to stick the wires into the pins on the plug, which is pretty fiddly, but I figured it out. You can also see the vacuum line, it has a MAP sensor for vacuum advance, which I T’d into the brake booster hose.

The one bit of wiring which I am not sure about is there are two lengths of shielded wire, which is wiring with a foil wrapper, intended to block interference from other wires. I’ve never used this before. I ordered two 8’ strands from auto sport labs as they carry what they recommend using. The guage of the wires has to be 22 or 24, it’s seriously tiny gauge. Apparently that’s ok because its signal wire not voltage, but it was very hard to strip and solder and seems flimsy. But we will see if it holds up.

I ran out of time this weekend to finish. Everything is wired and installed, but the radiator is still out. I will post the wiring diagram once I’m sure it works.

The question is this. I want to test run the motor before putting the radiator back in, but is that dumb without coolant? Even for 15 seconds? Will it hurt the water pump or ok as long as it’s not for very long?

You could run a running hose into the water pump or in the t stat hole and hear that baby run without any damage for a little while.


Just disconnect the belt: it will not hurt the engine to start it dry, and 15 seconds is plenty to ascertain the EDIS is working well.

Looked vey closely at EDIS and collected, assembled and bench-tested. All worked. But a total PITA to install. Eventually ditched and sold ithe EDIS kit and bought a 123 Tune instead. Got it optimised on a rolling road. Much simpler. No regreats.

Sorry I haven’t updated this, I will eventually. I got the EDIS installed, got the timing set right, and the car has never run better. It was a little fiddly to install but now the car starts first turn of the key like a modern car and idles rock solid. Has much better power and smoothness than my 123 and I’ve been able to tune out pinging at specific loads and RPM’s. It’s no comparison.

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Did you optimise the 123 and EDIS units on a rolling road?
With the 123 tune I got about 10% more low-mid range torque, compared with the old distributor with electronic points.
Rock solid idle too.
You’ll never increase power/torque at top end when advance is all in.

No, but I modeled the 123/TUNE after the S1 curve, which I’d found in a spreadsheet someone here posted comparing tons of distributor curves. The car ran well but took awhile to start and idle was ok but a little wobbly. With the EDIS and a timing map also modeled after the same S1 curve, the engine starts first turn, idles rock solid, and ‘feels’ smoother and more powerful.

I used the published advance data from the original Lucas distributor. That worked fine, with good steady idle. Drove well too. Then optimised on rolling road. All the gains were in the mid-range- about 1800-3000rpm, which is where my engine operates most at.
I’m happy.

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A few months have passed and I’ve worked out all the kinks, and I’ve been noticing comments and questions about EDIS in other threads so I’ll try to finish this thread.

Once I got everything installed, I pulled the plugs and turned the engine over with the computer plugged in to see what would happen. I was not getting any reading for RPM on the computer. Turned out the wires on the VR sensor where reversed. I wired negative to the black wire and positive to the white wire on the sensor, but it was not correct. I read in many forums this is the most common error and when I swapped those wires it fixed it. Got RPM reading on the computer with the engine turning over. Also turned out that that tiny thin and actually hard to solder wire worked fine, as long as you very carefully make sure it doesn’t break or pull apart.

Next was to try to start the motor. The first try, it puffed and sputtered and backfired. I deduced that the firing order was not correct, meaning the wires from the EDIS to the coil where in the wrong order. I followed the wiring diagrams… but for whatever reason it wasn’t right. So instead of cutting and resoldering the wires I just tried different orders of plugs wires. Luckily it’s wasted spark meaning there 3 combos of 2 cylinders that fire at the same time. So I had to move around the pairs of plug wires until it fired up. Took a few tries, but here’s the final correct wiring setup that worked for my car.

The engine was now running. I had a hard time getting the laptop to work correctly at first too, it was reading double the idle, but that was because it was still set on 4 cyl not 6 cyl. I kept changing it to 6 and hitting save… after the 3rd or 4th time it finally worked and was reading the idle and timing ranges correctly.

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There are a few different ways to wire the tach. There is a pin out on the MJ for the tach, but this didn’t work for me. My tach was converted by Mike Eck to run off the (-) on the coil, meaning it counts coil firings. Since EDIS is 3 coils, you need a little adapter board to blend all three signals into one to run the tach. Auto Sport Labs sells these little boards. You make 3 tiny jumper wires from the three leads from EDIS to the coil pack, and connect them to the proper terminals, then you connect the wire to the coil to the other end. Worked perfectly and the little board is so tiny I wrapped it in electrical tape and hid it inside the wiring conduit.

Now that all the wiring was done and everything worked, cleaned up the wiring a bit and here’s the finished installation on the firewall.

It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with it for now.

On your coil pack firing order picture, is #1 at the rear of the block (original Jaguar firing order)?
What plug wire set did you find to work with this?
I am currently installing EDIS with Megasquirt2 & TBI, I have the aluminum sump so I installed the crank-wheel sensor at the old pointer location and I am using a XJ6 pulley (for the AC & Vee belts) so I have a new pointer where your sensor is, nice to be able to put a timing light on it & see what it is doing…
I plan to use the original Tach set up, long ago when it was last a running car that worked fine & changing to neg ground did not seem to affect it. (?)

Yes #1 is at the back, but actually it doesn’t matter because 1/6, 2/5, 3/4 fire at the same time. So as long as those pairs are in the correct order you’re good. Good question about the wires, something I forgot to mention. I got them custom made from Kingsborne Wires in Northern CA, call and ask for Ray L’s EDIS Jaguar wire set. I gave them custom lengths because of my coil placement but they will make them whatever length you want. They are superb quality and the correct specs for EDIS.

For the timer, the position where my sensor is is where the original timing pointer was. But in a Mk2 you can’t read the timing because there’s no space to see where you are on the timing wheel. By moving the pointer to the front of the pan, I can point the timing light under the front of the car and see the timing.

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OK, here’s the final timing map. I took the car out this weekend and went through different gears and different loads and listened for pinging. The beauty of the EDIS is you can reduce timing at specific loads and rpm to tune out pinging without losing timing at other loads and rpm. My car for whatever reason pinged a lot at low / medium load around 2k rpm. At heavy throttle and higher rpm the stock 4.2 timing curve is perfect, but at that spot I had to dial back the timing. You can see where the timing retards in the middle boxes. I actually swapped from BPR5 to BPR6 plugs to see if that would help, same deal. Any thoughts as to why it might ping so much at this one particular place?

What octane fuel are you using?

High test. In CA it’s 93.